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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. Fans are only helpful when you're still. At highway speeds, the air flowing through the radiator should keep your car at normal temperature. Either you have a very shit radiator, or you have another problem somewhere (possibly a faulty thermostat).
  2. I have headlights, PM me if you're interested.
  3. ^ As above, it all comes down to the driver. Kids will rebel and do stupid shit. Question is, what would you allow them to do it in? A 1.4L turbo Holden Cruze, which has stability/traction control, bunch of airbags and other safety features, or a VN Commodore? You can only try to educate and train them. NSW license testing is piss easy, reverse parallel parking won't help you when you have to avoid another car. Hell, I've seen heaps of people on their fulls not know how to park or drive. To think they could be teaching kids how to drive! I wonder where all the revenue from speed cameras/safety cameras, rego, etc are going to.
  4. I still have the SRI arms. The squeaks were louder than the exhaust hahaha.
  5. 2) sounds like AFMs, look up the soldering fix or try a set of known working ones. Do you know what brake pads are on there? As mentioned, machine the rotors, full fluid flush and probably look at getting new pads (QFM HPX at a mimimum, I would get A1RM as GT-Rs are 'heavy').
  6. I had SRI red rear upper arms in my car, which were squeaking after 6 months. Replaced with GKTech arms. It's been over 3 months now without a noise from them. No, it means you get two pieces (two arms).
  7. R33 turbo has 5psi waste gate spring. The solenoid bleeds it to 7 or whatever the max pressure is set from factory. Boost controller will essentially bypass/replace the solenoid.
  8. Can always swap hubs, brakes, etc with someone who has an N/A R32.
  9. Location?
  10. Try LSV (if you're over 25)
  11. Decide on the size and offset you want to run, then find something that you like. Also decide on a budget. Heaps of choices. By the way, new Enkei RPF1 are about $1,300-1,500 delivered.
  12. Excellent post datsun_1600
  13. Could also be the switch plug
  14. Seems liked it http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm
  15. Great price for them. I'm pretty sure they have both M10 (R31/32/33/S13/14/etc) and M12 (S15, GT-R) threads built in.
  16. Wrong section, but I can help you out.
  17. +1 on Nick's issue. Also, the 'new posts after last read' button disappeared recently. There should be a white button on the left:
  18. Yeah you got shafted alright. Best bed is to build a case up against him (receipts vs what he's actually done, which means getting another professional to look at your). It's going to get pretty tough for you now man. Hopefully he's less of a dick to you the second time round and actually fixes the issues. But that won't happen, because if he was like that, you wouldn't have issues in the first place! Perhaps look into Fair Trading, maybe ask someone in your state if they know someone who can give you advice on this matter.
  19. Quick google search yielded this: 245/45/16 on 16x8 Run 235-wide tyres or get Panasports
  20. Keeps builders/machinists/shops/etc. in business though
  21. Probably just a production run designation. Could be for diesel or South Africa cars?
  22. So you're going to take your car back to the same dodgy mechanic?
  23. 265/35/18 Falken Azenis on 18x9 But, the tyre design does play a part.
  24. However much you can spend on them. You can use any RB gearbox (and even VG30DETT with adapter, which is pretty much same as RB25DET).
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