niZmO_Man

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHROME-SILVER-STEEL-TUNER-WHEEL-NUTS-x20-ROTA-M12x1-25mm-/151129175771

Yeah, used SIN5 (now Premium 5). But used Racing 10 this year, no issues driving around in the heat nor on Marulan. Will see how it holds up at Eastern Creek south.

Here's a crappy picture of my car. I'm going to re-do the headlights soon.

You're slack, the Magnatec might kill his engine

Tell whatever hybrid turbo you have. Buy a NEO6 turbo, it bolts straight on. Put the RB20 actuator on that and enjoy 10psi. It kicks in around 3,000rpm (probably a bit earlier if you had a full exhaust). Good for some fast driving, better fuel economy while putting around. Win win.

Only if you drive like a dick, or hang out with a bunch of them. Other scenario is your plates are noted by police. Other than that, cops don't really care as long as your car looks roadworthy and you don't drive like an idiot. Although it does differ depending on area, I've never been targeted by the police in my three Skylines (they look pretty standard though).

Firstly, wrong sub forum. Secondly, you shouldn't have to cut the fan blades, but it is possible. If it's not a return flow intercooler you will have to cut a hole on the driver's side to feed the cold side pipe. It should make it unroadworthy (don't see how it won't).

LOL my bad.

+2 same here, looks like the tyres are designed for the stance crowd. Actually on the limit these look like they might be worse (contact patch reduces a lot quicker as the car is "tipping" onto the edge of the tyre). Plus different shorter inner diameter compared to outer, wouldn't that cause the inner to wear out quicker?

That's probably one of the reasons why USA-spec cars (e.g. USDM JZA80 Supra) got steel wheel turbos.

So cool, even has roof racks! Seen this?: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/416450-r32-gt-r-v-spec-v-spec-ii-register-inc-n1-v-spec-v-spec-ii-models/page-5

Yeah give Racing 10 (10W-40) a go. I think they have a thicker oil in that product line. These are $75/bottle, but they should be more stable when running at 100deg. My car is street driven, but switching from HPR to SIN I found the temps stayed a little bit lower (barely detectable).

Depends on the area as mentioned. Idiots in your area = you'll be treated badly. I never had issues with the police, apart from one hero on a bike pulling me over for street racing doing 80 in 80 zone (Western Distributor). I caught him on his lies so he had no choice but to threaten me and let me go.

Tried their 10 Tenths range?

LOL dude that was a spammer.

I got mine from a bike accessories shop, ~$120. Has DOT and ADR stickers (important).

Pull the pads out and file/sand the face.

Have you timed it properly?

Depending on how well they build it, and from previous resurfacings/builds around Sydney, it'll probably smooth for 6 months

Yes Not sure, think it might have the same issue as an atmo-venting valve. Someone else can confirm this. You'll get flutter every time you spin the turbo up and close the throttle plate (i.e. rev and lift off) if enough air is pushed back through the compressor.

Not having a go at the K&N fans, but don't always believe the marketing and be sceptical. If the K&N has a better design and construction, better filter element, etc. then that's all great. If they add a magnet and a nut then charge extra $30 for essentially the same thing (or even inferior), is it really worth it? Not sure if you lot can see this, but on the R31 Skyline club, someone did a comparison of the Ryco and Nissan oil filter. Would be interesting to see the internals of the K&N and other filters. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=103539.msg975257#msg975257 *edit* ahh replies, cheers fellas.

What makes the K&N better than the Ryco besides the nut at the end of the casing? That's what we're after (well I'm after), justification on why Ryco or Nissan filter should be skipped a more expensive filter be purchased. Are we going off the belief that the more expensive one is better?

Dodgy private sellers don't have an ABN, so they aren't dealers. When you buy from a dealership, you expect a non-dodgy car. Hence why people pay the premium to reduce/eliminate risk. If you're a dealership and are doing the right thing, threads like these won't affect you. This thread isn't a blanket attack on all dealerships, it's showing examples of buyer beware. If you (dealership) can provide supporting documents etc then you won't have any issues . My point of view anyway. I've been wanting to buy a V36 sedan for a while now. I rather drive the car first and check it out in person before handing over cash, which is where dealerships come in handy. Massive wind-backs are a big concern because 88,000km car sold as 40,000km will be driving way past the major service point. Etc etc.

You can get a complete running RB30E for less than $500, why would you bother swapping heads? I constantly see RB30E heads on sale for $50-100. I gave mine away for free! Sorry I haven't answered your question. But I've seen this question come up a couple of times. Best to keep searching.

I too would like to see any evidence of Ryco oil filter ruining an engine. Or at least have any sort of signs it wasn't good for the engine.