niZmO_Man

BCPR6ES (they should be 0.8mm gapped). If the shop doesn't have it, go somewhere else. If you have a feeler gauge, you can gap them down (stores usually stock BCPR6ES-11, the 1.1mm gapped ones). Run 1.1mm gap (factory) if you have new coilpacks.

Tried cleaning the Idle or Auxiliary air valve on the intake plenum?

^ Hahahahahaha

I wanted to see a driver's license or something with the name in lower and upper cased letters

I know this is deviating away from this thread, but any reason you want to buy copies? You can get second hand Volk wheels for decent prices with tyres.

Whoops, my bad. Yeah them metal rolling ones are flogged out on the arms on the car. I might as well splash out on those Kakimoto ones. I run about -2.5º front camber anyway. Nismo arms aren't short enough unfortunately (haven't even put them on yet).

Was browsing through Ikeya Formula website yesterday when I discovered their 'MAPLE A-ONE GAGE'.

Proof that your Real Name:MidexsnuZO

Anyone running Hardrace front upper arms for BNR32/Z32? I'm guessing they fit the non-GT-R R32s as well. I want to know if they're rubber or spherical like the rest of the arms.

Fans are only helpful when you're still. At highway speeds, the air flowing through the radiator should keep your car at normal temperature. Either you have a very shit radiator, or you have another problem somewhere (possibly a faulty thermostat).

I have headlights, PM me if you're interested.

^ As above, it all comes down to the driver. Kids will rebel and do stupid shit. Question is, what would you allow them to do it in? A 1.4L turbo Holden Cruze, which has stability/traction control, bunch of airbags and other safety features, or a VN Commodore? You can only try to educate and train them. NSW license testing is piss easy, reverse parallel parking won't help you when you have to avoid another car. Hell, I've seen heaps of people on their fulls not know how to park or drive. To think they could be teaching kids how to drive! I wonder where all the revenue from speed cameras/safety cameras, rego, etc are going to.

I still have the SRI arms. The squeaks were louder than the exhaust hahaha.

2) sounds like AFMs, look up the soldering fix or try a set of known working ones. Do you know what brake pads are on there? As mentioned, machine the rotors, full fluid flush and probably look at getting new pads (QFM HPX at a mimimum, I would get A1RM as GT-Rs are 'heavy').

I had SRI red rear upper arms in my car, which were squeaking after 6 months. Replaced with GKTech arms. It's been over 3 months now without a noise from them. No, it means you get two pieces (two arms).

R33 turbo has 5psi waste gate spring. The solenoid bleeds it to 7 or whatever the max pressure is set from factory. Boost controller will essentially bypass/replace the solenoid.

Can always swap hubs, brakes, etc with someone who has an N/A R32.

Location?

Try LSV (if you're over 25)

Decide on the size and offset you want to run, then find something that you like. Also decide on a budget. Heaps of choices. By the way, new Enkei RPF1 are about $1,300-1,500 delivered.

Changed fuel filter?

Excellent post datsun_1600

Could also be the switch plug

Seems liked it http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm