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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. Exactly what I was thinking. *grabs popcorn*
  2. Oh yeah oops, sorry, my question was for HICAS, my bad.
  3. I have a pair with discs/pads, but I'm in Sydney. I also have GT-R brakes.
  4. Best is to look up your first posts. Mine was on the R31 Skyline club, something about pod filters being legal in NSW. I was 15 or so. My typing was also cringe-worthy.
  5. That SR20 looks a bit weird. Do Toyota owners have fun changing the oil filter? FWD 4AGE/similar shitted me. R31 is best to work on hahaha.
  6. Use a Mac?
  7. Is your missus a race car driver??
  8. Pictures/vids of skids?
  9. If you searched and had a read around, you will find that people recommend Nismo twin plate for a road driven car.
  10. Walk away from that tyre shop. You can buy 4 stud wheels that fit brand new for similar price. If you really want to go down that path, the 4 to 5 stud converter spacers will require lots of work to fit. Looking at about 3 hours labour. Factor that in as well. No they are not roadworthy.
  11. Get your hellaflushstance crap out of here OP, not sure on the guards as I've never done it, but I think you can buy wider fibreglass guards and get them fitted (so I assume they will cut the standard guards to make more room). Ask yourself, do you really want to run 10" wide wheels and 265-285 wide tyres? You can easily fit 9" wide on the back and run 245-255 wide tyres.
  12. Rajab is our son of rajab and saviour
  13. www.r31skylineclub.com
  14. Don't listen to the shop to begin with. In addition to #2, you can also buy wider guards and have them fitted. I would personally get 8" wheels for the front and sell the 10" wheels. You can then run 235 and 255 wide tyres (cheaper!).
  15. Engine and gearbox together is usually easier. As mentioned, just service it. Check the condition of the timing belt anyway. Throw an R34 turbo on there, exhaust + Nistune. It bolts straight on.
  16. Except the R32/R31 series 3 gearboxes have double synchros on 1st and 2nd, whereas the VL/R31 Series 1-2 ones don't. Not sure on the VLT boxes, but I think it's the same story. Also I believe the N/A R33 and R34 ones are same as R32 ones. IIRC.
  17. Body kit is fine to me, it's all functional! Awesome, lets see how it stacks up to the competition.
  18. ^ repeating previous post. First step when you're having auto transmission issues is to service it! Change the oil and see how you go.
  19. Hahah great reply. That's pretty much what happens on half the threads started on car forums (on every subject, not just clutches). Heaps of people run NPC clutches so go with them. If it stuffs up, you can get angry at NPC and the fanboys. If it works fine, you can become said fanboy
  20. Pete dumps the oil after every track day, so I don't think the oil has time to break down and sludge. Helps when you have a trailer so you don't have to worry about driving it home . At the last track day, using Penrite Racing 10W-40, I was regularly hitting 130°C lol. Car still drove home fine, dumped the oil after as I didn't want to risk it. Oil was about 3,000 km when I hit the track lol.
  21. My car runs great, over the past two years I daily drove it for a bit, AFMs were the only issue. It survived two track days lol, so yeah it is pretty reliable. Only bad side is the body is a bit rough (crushed jack points, fade on a rear guard, scratches and dents from other idiots). I'll want more than you're willing to pay for it though. Good luck in your hunt!
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