zebra

Boost in -> apex seals out Lol

That's a good run Always seems that after a car has sat still for a while things start to go wrong when you get back into it

Blown a manifold gasket?

They aren't that bad. Mine had 230000ks but wasnt turbo But wind em up and they break a lot but are cheap to build compared to a 26

Can't wait to get the soarer up there again when it's sorted Will bring many tyres

Race pace if you have the dollars. Pro engines here in canberra also has a good rep Erd/mercury/Godzilla in Brisbane Jhh in Sydney There are heaps with a good rep

That won't work bud. Injectors need to be running etc

rb26's have 12mm head bolts, rb25s have 11mm. From memory the 25 head bolt holes are pretty tight around the 11mm bolts, I doubt 12mm will fit, so will have to drill the head to suit

all the td07 and larger turbos are twinscroll t4

We're allowed screamer pipes now?

General rule of thumb. bar and plate cools better tube and fin flow better

All you are saying though has been covered 11ty times.....head work....300,000 threads. Bottom end build 500,000 threads Cams for RB- 200,000 threads the only Rb30 specific thing needed is VCT oil feed...which you aren't using

Ye didnt mention that. HKS and Blitz Sell 1Bar/14.7psi actuators for the RB25 turbos, as does Hypergear turbos

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/342729-extrude-honing/page__view__findpost__p__5527937 google reveals nothing about them though

yeah 6262 with a twinscroll .84 A/R rear on it should just touch 400rwkws with a set of drop in cams on the 1JZ at 30 or so psi and E85 even if it doesnt make 400 the area under the curve will be a lot better

very cool. I keep looking at the stupid cordia in the shed...one day

are you going through every page in the section to reply to threads that are months old?

HHHokay Boost spikes: Manual controllers a notorious for it (especially the Turbo Smart ones) Basically, turbo ramps up to max boost faster than what the actuator can open to slow the turbo down usually caused by vacuum lines that are too long and delaying the pressure the diaphragm gets to open the flapper, or a bleed valve that bleeds off to much air in a big rush when the pressure goes up before settling down. EBC's can do the same, which is why most have a gain setting which is basically a frequency controller for the solenoid, turn gain down allows more air to reach the can earlier. Boost drop off: Caused by lots of things, 1. a weak actuator spring which means the flapper is blown open by the exhaust gas 2. Restrictive exhaust, as pressure builds in the exhaust the turbine slows down, think of a desk fan, spins pretty freely in fresh air yes. put it underwater and see how fast it spins. exhaust back pressure does the same thing 3. too small turbine housing, pretty much same as above. 4. Bad tune, too rich and too much timing means exhaust gas temps are low and the exhaust gas doesnt have the energy to drive the turbo hard enough (common with really big turbo setups on small engines) 5. Gasket/intercooler piping leaks, speaks for itself really...leaks are bad mmmkay 6. compressor out of flow, the turbo simply cant pump enough air into the engine as revs rise. Boost creep (boost keeps rising) Also cause by a few things 1. wastegate too small, cant bypass enough air, turbo spins faster and faster (often found with Gt30 turbos with the .63 A/R exhaust and cheap ebay turbos with internal wastegates) 2. Tune, not enough ignition timing means a very high exhaust gas temps which spin the turbo harder...usually goes hand in hand with a too small wastegate. 3. Bad boost control - bleeding off too much air 4. Wastegate flap being stopped by the dump pipe, usually found with cheap split dump pipes, the flapper gets jammed and cant open any further due to a bad design

yeah, found those, need mild steel though, but found Precisions online shop has the mild steel v-band kits to suit...

to take it out, just run the boost source straight into the actuator, will give you 5-6psi max (actuator pressure) For those who arent quite sure about boost controllers, wastegates, actuators etc It is quite simple. internally gates turbos (like the standard RB units) have an actuator looks like this inside the can (big round thing on the end) is a spring and a diaphragm the spring holds the flapper closed looks like this via the rod on the actuator (long bit with a hole in the end) There is a nipple on the can that is feed pressure from either the intercooler piping or the intake plenum. When the air pressure in the pressure in the can is greater than the spring prssure it opens the wastegate flap and bypasses exhaust from the turbos exhaust wheel which stops the turbo from spinning faster and faster (which if happens you have unlimited boost...well unlimited until either the engine or turbo goes bang) But as the air pressure increases the valve slowly starts to open, as both the spring is effectively loosing tension as the pressure builds up on the diaphragm and the exhaust gas pressure builds up behind the flapper it isnt a straight hits 7psi and snaps open A Manual boost controller or bleed valve simply reduces the amount of pressure the can receives by bleeding off though a needle valve (if you looks at the bleed valve there will be a little hole in it somewhere) and tricking the diaphragm into thinking there is less pressure there so the spring holds the flapper closed more than normal, allowing more exhaust gas to go through the turbine wheel and thus increasing boost. Electronic boost controller works in the same way, but has an electronic solenoid which pulses to let the air out. They bring boost on faster buy leaving the valve full open (hence the can not receiving any pressure and holding the flapper fully closed). Until it gets close to the target boost pressure and then starts to allow the wastegate to open by bleeding off less air and sending more pressure to the can. The cheapest manual boost controller out there is to simply poke holes in the vacuum line going to to the can. (we used to do this at dyno comps on the 2nd and 3rd runs in events where you werent allowed to change the state of tune between back to back runs) We would "check for leaks" and poke a few holes in the boost controller hoses with a pin and hello 4-5psi more with out changing anything NB* I dont recommended doing that though as quite a few engines went pop because it got too much extra boost as it cant be controlled lol Wow I need a break....will explain boost spiking in a few mins

What could be an option, would be to buy a kando td06sl2-20g minus exhaust housing and have stao machine the oem RB turbine housing to suit, if you wanted a bolt in option

Here is a question...where teh hell do you find a 3 5/8" V band for theses thing? can find 3", 3 1/2", and 4" easy.......3 5/8"..... or do you simply use a 3 1/2" unit?

Journal bearing means absolutely nothing unless you are comparing identical turbos, TD06-20g out spools and out powers the HKS GT-RS

hahah, was it in the absolute pain in the ass fuse box by the accelerator pedal? I hate the one! Everything should have been in the neat one under the bonnet