Sydneykid

No tuning, so you will hit the standard ECU Rich and Retard mapping at 170'ish rwkw depending on the quality of the components you have used. Maybe even earlier, I have seen them hit R&R at 150 rwkw. cheers

Hi Andrew, what Ben says is absolutely correct. But think about what he actually says........."it uses a "map sensor" to indicate the pressure inside the manifold". We are talking about turbo charged cars here with wastegates and boost controllers that very accurately control "the pressure inside the manifold". I don't know about your engine and boost controller, but mine has the same boost level from 4,000 rpm to 7,500 rpm. So the MAP sensor is basically useless, it means the formula has a constant "P" and that is one of the vital inputs in the Ideal Gas Law formula. Next think about..........."the air..... must pass through a calibrated orifice called the Mass Air Flow Sensor. This sensor poses a restriction to airflow"......this only applies if you have chosen an AFM that is too small for your power level target. I don't see how that is any different to me saying MAP sensor based ECU are no good because I choose to have too small an air filter. It is irrelevant in choosing an ECU. Lastly ....... "any air leaks after the sensor, but before the throttle body will cause a lean condition because there is no means of measuring that "sneaky" air". Obviously Ben wrote this for N/A engines not turbo charged engines, as any air leaks after the turbo would cause a rich condition. cheers

Fluency has NOTHING to do with it. HKS don't release the software, acreditied workshops have to buy it and pay a licence fee and pay a royalty and pay an annual renewal fee. It's simply too damn expensive and there is not enough demand for it. Compared to Motec/Autronic where you get the tuning software with the ECU when you buy it. Blaim HKS, it is no one else's fault. cheers

What do you think 90/10 means? I my terminology 90 = the rebound % of the total damping and 10 = the bump % of the total damping Road shocks are 70/30 'ish. Hence reducing the bump from 30 to 10 for more squat, which is exactly what I posted shoud be done. On the front you want the reverse, less rebound damping, maybe as much as 50/50. So that the front wheels droop as quickly as the rear wheel squat. If the shock rebound is too strong on the front it will cause the front wheels to lift off the ground. Not a good idea if you want to be able to steer. Runing a good time is a combination of all factors in setup. Sure a $1,000 spent on tyres will give a better result than $100 spent on suspension setup. But after you have spent the $1,000 on tyres, what are you going to do to improve the times? What if you don't have a $1,000 to spend on tyres, what can you do with $100 that will improve the times? That's why some cars that should run 11's barely get into the 12's. It's like buying a new turbo and not tuning the engine, you wouldn't do that. So why wouldn't you tune your suspension? cheers

I have now finished the engineering on the R34GTT suspension kit. There are quite a few differences in settings and parts selection, particularly shock absorber valving which needed a large number of changes. I have also included the often requested Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit, you only need it if you have to replace your broken, lost or worn out standard parts. The supply of R34GTT Bilsteins is OK at the moment, but don't hesitate too long with taking up the Group Buy as they will all be gone. The next shipment is not due for at least 5 months. Rear Camber kit Please PM me with your order and post up any questions you may have on here. As it may answer other peoples questions at the same time. Fitting and alignment can be done at the following locations Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW Centeline Thomastown Vic Traction Tyre & Suspension Rowville Vic Discount Tyres Service Belconnen Act Motsons Qld More fitting stations will be posted as they come to hand. Please note that the above fitting locations are workshops that I have used in the past, so I know that they can do the necessary work to the right standard and have the right equipment. No special prices or discounts apply, you can negotiate fitting cost and times directly. A full kit will take at least a whole day as the bushes in particular can be time consuming to fit. cheers PS; Shocks and springs are currently in stock, bushes and stabiliser bars are made to order. So delivery is ~10 days from time of order, all items are shipped via Toll Priority using their Off Peak service. Consignment note numbers will be provided at the time of shipping, so your order can be tracked via Toll. Payment should be made in full to the bank account details at the bottom of the price list, the receipt number for internet banking is acceptable or a copy of the deposit slip for over the counter banking. Send them to me via PM.

That the earth for the case of the 4mz crystal, it has to be soldered to the case. cheers

R33GTST rears. Unless it's a Autech 260RS in which case it's R33GTR rears Cheers

OK, so what you are doing is richening up the A/F ratios with the EManage, this retards the igntion timing and so it feels sluggish. Unusual situation, 99% of the time we are trying to lean out the A/F ratios by bending the AFM output voltage. What I would do is increase the fuel pressure (adjustable FPR) so that I didn't need the EManage to make it richer. I would adjust the fuel pressure for 12 to 1 A/F ratio at the max power RPM. Then use the EManage to tune the other RPM load points. This will remove the need for large amounts of voltage bending by the EManage and retain some semblance of normal ignition timing. If I couldn't get the injectors to flow enough at the higher fuel pressure to achieve the 12 to 1 A/F ratio , then chances are the injectors will be too small regardless of what ECU I am using. So upgrading the injectors is the next step. Hope that was of some help cheers

Of course you can tune it yourself, all you need is; 1. A good quality A/F ratio meter 2. A timing light 3. Hearing that can identify knock when you hear it 4. A road where you can drive flat out for about 20 minutes 5. Someone else to push the buttons or drive while you are tuning it 6. Some knowledge of how a programable ECU works and what it does Simple, isn't it? cheers

Reading this thread confirmed a few things for me; #1 Don't let my car get into a magazine, they will sensationalise anything for a headline and make me look like an idiot #2 Don't let my car get into a magazine, they will make mistakes that make me look like a fool #3 If I just have to have my car in a magazine, proof read every word and picture, otherwise they will make errors of fact and judgement that will make me look stupid #4 Don't believe everything I see written in a magazine, they make mistakes that make me look like a goose when I quote them #5 Don't count on increasing the value of my car because it's been in a magazine, everyone now knows it has been living on the edge and engine failure is only a bad batch of fuel or a hot day away. Plus because of #1, #2 and #3 they think I am an idiot/stupid/fool/goose and wouldn't buy a car off me if it was the last one on earth. #6 Since it's been in a magazine, my car is now the target for every thief that wants to steal it. For every idiot that wants to drag it off. For every RTA inspector who wants to defect it. For every cop who wants it off the roads because I am a car enthusiast, hoon and a menace to society. If you ever see an article on one of my cars in a magazine you will know I wrote it myself, took the pictures and proof read it at least 3 times. I don't trust journalists, they are there to sell magazines, not look after my interests. Plus I will have changed the colour, the rego, my name and lied about the state it's in. So if you see a pink R32GTST with Tassy rego, "FAKE" number plates and "HobartKid" as the owner you will know it's mine. cheers PS; no offence to Tasmanians.

Pipercross panel filter in the standard airbox, up to 265rwkw now, with no problems. cheers

Hi Andrew, yes, it was fantastic, but it took over a month to get the road tune right. That's cold start & run, hot idle, air con, electrical load and power steering compensation etc etc. That's the problem, no AFM to sense the REAL engine load, so you have to tune it in minute steps. And our tuner has had over 10 years experience on Perkins customer V8's, which all came with Autronics. Time is money, and it cost a boat load to tune that one. Since the MAP sensor shows constant pressure, the truth is you are only tuning against 2 dimensions at best. You can't use the MAP sensor output and the TPS is at a constant 100% at WOT. So in reality it's 1 dimensional tuning, RPM. cheers

Ever so interesting Ben, thanks for taking the time to post it up. cheers PS; I seem to remember predicting 280 rwkw at 1.4 bar when we chatted last Saturday.

The Improved Production National Championships are on 12/13th November, so I assume Friday 11th would be a private practise day for competitors. For the SA guys, the BSM team are bringing the GTR. Pop out and say g'day. cheers

The DFA is as effective as any other AFM voltage bender. They are great up to the point where to tune any (lower voltage) leaner would mean too much ignition advance. That's where you compromise, keep it a bit richer so it is not knocking because of too advance ignition timing. From my limited knowledge of Mitsubishi auto shift logic, they appear to already have a full set of maps for ignition cut/interupt/retard on gearchanges. So I can't see what the EManage will do, other than stuff up that logic. The DFA makes no difference whatsoever to the auto shift logic program on Skylines and I see no reason why it would on the FTO either. cheers

They look ugly to you because you only see them from the rear. :lol: If they were in your rear vison mirror they would probably look OK then. cheers

Hi Ice, my hourly rate is pretty expensive and we have race meetings back to back for the next 3 weeks. Then a 2 week break, maybe I can fit it in then. PM me for more details. cheers

There is no transmission fluid bottle, that's a power steering reservoir. The transmission fluid is held in the gearbox, just like the engine oil is held in the sump. The dip stick for the auto trans is at the firewall almost directly behind the inlet cam cover. You check it with the engine running (not stopped like engine oil). In the picture, it is down almost directly the convoluted wire insulator behind the inlet cam cover. It is a redish plastic ring, lift it up and the dip stick will come with it. Hope that helps Cheers

This particular car and driver had been at 3 street meets and the best time was 12.47 at 119 mph, that's over 30 runs. I changed the alignment (camber and subframe) a lot and the ride height a little and it did an 11.99 at 119.9 mph. Been back to 2 subsequent meets (that I know of) and the slowest was a 12.13. No extra power, no tyre changes, nothing. That's about as back to back as you can get as this is not the sort of stuff you can do between runs. I hope you mean in the tyres not in the air. So reducing the rear bump vlkaving on the shocks is not important? Bummer, I must be one of the 1%, I dropped 0.9 seconds, but I did set the suspension up for the drag radials (not slicks). cheers

My wife's car turns the video off when moving forward ie; speedo sensor input. The display still works for everything else (trip computer, sat nav etc) when moving forward. It doesn't turn off when reversing though, probably for a rear vision camera (if it had one). This only applies to the screen the driver can see, the other screens (the ones the driver can't see) still work when moving. cheers

Never had a parcel opened by Customs from the USA since January, if it is post marked "from the USA" they seem to let it through. If the value is high enough they slap some GST on it, but never had any duty applied. The definitions of "made in", "manufactured in", "product of" etc are just as blurred as in Australia. I think it is just too hard for them. cheers

So you don't think a rear subframe alignment kit with settings for more squat would help? What about a rear camber kit for setting the static camber positive, so that when it goes dynamic towards negative under squat you have improved tyre contact patch? How about a static toe aligment such that it allows for the shift to toe out under acceleration and squat? Those 3 things on an R33GTST = 0.48 seconds faster 1/4. And then I could talk about springs and shocks.......... cheers

We use Castrol Formula R Sythetic 10W60 on the track, and I try for less than 115 degrees at all times when in clean air. Can get to 125 degrees when close following. Time for an oil cooler? cheers

1st January 2005.