Dale FZ1

3rd driver appears the most relaxed and smooth/deliberate with the application of steering, throttle, gearchange. How was his pace?

If there is sufficient room to fit 3.5 inch, then run it. Not much sense to that idea if you are running a 3 inch system though...

Very tidy result, a credit to you and the guys doing the work. Time to get this thing prepped for track

For me there's no debate. MCA do a quality product and the Red spec have worked very well for me. Backup and assistance are first rate. There is an exceptionally broad pool of knowledge/experience drawn on, evidenced in their results with the WTAC Hammerhead. I reckon it shows through in these products.

Got a few updates on plans and experiences following season's end: Decided to go testing at Queensland Raceway, resolve what can/should be done to get closer to the desired suspension setup. Tried a 13kg/4.5kg spring combination with same ride height and alignment as we last ran the car. Stock sway bars. And a set of Hankook Z221 front (nearly new), and rear (brand new) both soft compound. Learned that QR is not an inspiring place to drive, fairly sterile. I don't think it places huge emphasis on agility and direction change but the straights allow bigger hp cars to shine. Also learned that the 13/4.5kg combination isn't as good as the 14/5kg setup. Seems to kneel over on the outside front tyre in corners. Might go to a 0.5 - 1kg increase front/rear because we need to maintain balance. Those numbers are nowhere near looking like they're in sync with what other R chassis runners are using, but I am taking advice/recommendations directly from MCA. Who better to advise than the man who's designing and building the shocks? Brakes finally had enough of track work. The front rotors had been showing signs of heat. Stress cracks throughout the swept area, although did not look unusable. The rears however, did not survive the day. A crack right through the swept area was enough to encourage us to pull the pin. And discuss brake spec. The Winmax W7/W3 pad combination were exceptionally good, well worth the spend. The W7 tend to be quite "bitey" and require progressive pedal application to get results without causing them to nip up. No ABS on this car, and even with bone stock OEM spec rotors and calipers, the brakes are very very strong but maybe lacking the tendency to telegraph any impending lockup. Result: front braking hardware upgrading to Evo 5 Brembos and Evo 10 Rotors 350mm. Fitted up using Alpha Omega bracketry. Brake bias adjustability to happen via a pedal box arrangement with balance bar. Researching options on that one ATM, will post up a bit more when it becomes evident what line we go. Again, taking advice rather than try to muddle my way through it. Rear brake hardware spec not changing. Stock R33 rotors, calipers, and some new W3 pads. Engine-wise, it has run sweetly. But did some testing on dyno to gauge what might be a good thing. Acquired United E85 race spec fuel. Fitted a 10 micron filter to replace the Z200 filter. Homework told me that the fuel system may struggle to feed the fire especially with "decent" boost levels. Bosch 044 with big wiring and 14.0 volts at the pump, and some 700cc injectors. On pump 98, going from 16.5psi to 21psi lifted output by a consistent 75hp across 4000-7000. There were issues getting the car tied down on the rollers correctly for a pretty print out, but that's going to be a fairly repeatable 460-470rwhp. The physical size of the 0.6A/R compressor cover showed as a limiting factor but I was happy with how effortless the extra hp was made. Then set about draining the tank, refilling with E85, and tune using a target 16psi due to questionable fuel system flow capacity issues. With E85 friendly ignition mapping wound in, the two curves overlapped nearly exactly. And the signs appeared that the 044 fuel pump wasn't able to keep up. Time to investigate a Walbro setup. All things being equal, E85 is now likely to be the direction we go for 2016. I'll try to get a few pics up of the above, when taken/available.

Good start and update on your path to modification/track car preparation. Aside from the BC shocks, how have you setup suspension?

You are probably looking at a Garrett vs ATP housing. There may be a difference in the quality of the casting. What is the difference in price? To have any hope of the hotside keeping up flow wise with the GTX compressor, you'd probably want the bigger turbine A/R. I'd suggest the 0.78 might choke a little early. RB engines respond well to a decent flow capacity through the turbine. Also, if you have reasonable access to E85, get onto that.

The man engineered his shocks to work properly for a given application. Yours is predominantly road use. Follow his advice.

It's all application dependent for what is best suited. ^^ Fully agree the GT3582 is more suited to the 3 litre than a GT30. Those 1.06 housings aren't so easy to acquire, and the bulkier housing impinges into the centre bearing area making hookup to oil/water lines more difficult. Cheapest option by far is to run the existing TD06SDL2-25G (aka T67 25G)and see if he likes it. Dimensions suggest broadly similar capabilities to a GTX3076. 30DET with stock cams, VCT working, stock inlet manifold etc will belt out some decent mid range torque but tend to peak around/just under 6000rpm. Bigger turbine does not automatically equate to peaky or laggy performance. But it can extend the usable upper rpm without making it gutless right down low. That's why the TDO6H 10cm turbine spec was suggested. I would back it as a very good all rounder, with the 12cm more suited to track. There's enough in-car video in my 33 build thread to demonstrate that unit as progressive, not focused on peak power. 350rwhp was a figure mentioned earlier. If the preference is for Kinugawa product and that sort of hp and very quick/early spool to fry rubber, try a TDO6SL2-20G. Not big $$ to play around and trial. I reckon it would fall over with engine rpm, maybe 5500. I'd suggest similar in sizing and characteristics to a GT3071. The BW 7670 shouldn't be ignored. Robust, priced competitively, and different specs available to tailor it to application.

Listen to Stao on this one. I am running a TDO6H-25G 12cm on 30DET for track-only. Had been running a GT3076 0.87 turbo. Turbine restriction showed itself when tuning with the GT30, although it was a very sweet combination for road-only use. With Garrett I would go with a GT35 0.82 The TDO6H 12cm provides great linear delivery for track, but some stage I'm interested to slip on a 10cm housing. With that I'd expect 3-500rpm earlier for full boost, say 2900rpm for 17psi. The 12cm housing for road-only might not be the ideal match if you need mumbo in the 2000-3000rpm range. 12cm is more than adequate for response across 3500-7000 on track though. For the money would also look closely at a BW 7670 especially if finances don't stretch to a proper split pulse with twin gates, fancy manifold etc.

Johnny it looks like you've got the right sort of combinations to make a good thing. Couple of questions and suggestions: What ride height are you running? Long time ago Sydneykid posted up suggested ride height range that works ok with R chassis cars. It doesn't take too much of a drop from stock in the rear to start inducing bump steer and nasty taily tendencies because as the suspension compresses the rear tyres toe out. Rear camber will only increase as the suspension compresses. Gives less contact patch and grip. Maybe look to stand the tyre up more square, target 0.5 - 0.75 neg. Front camber if you're track only could be increased. Tyres flogging out on the outside edge (if that's happening for you?) might be a telltale to give it more.

We are running a set of the "basic spec" MCA Blue in an Evo. Street running was remarkably better ride control. On the track it was also better controlled and the car was faster. If you spec-up, you should get incrementally better results.

Johnny I'll be surprised if you aren't impressed with your purchase. The design engineering behind these shocks is punching well above the price point. I'm running MCA Red series with pretty good results. Track only. Setup/spec can vary but I'm thinking your rear spring rates are "up there". Strongly suggest a call to MCA for ideas/recommendations on what's required to get the best out of your shocks. I have found their after sales service first class. Keep us updated with your progress, but include more car detail. Wheel/tyre size and spec plus alignment. Bit of in-car when you go to Wakefield will tell heaps about how things are going.

I've been running a 14kg / 5kg combination. It works pretty well as part of a track only setup. It's all relevant to application, couldn't recommend that setup for road use though.

The idea is to run it through the system, get some temp into things. There is a detergent component in the stuff. You have a heater core and all the ally bits in the engine. It can't hurt anything. The best trick is to flush the radiator/heater/engine block clear before you put this stuff in. Don't forget to remove the bung from the block so it's drained properly. Find a nice road to take a leisurely Sunday cruise for a couple of hours while you run it. The effect should be similar to a long cycle on a dishwasher.

Cummins Fleetguard do two products. One is acidic, suits cast iron engines. The other is alkaline, suits everything else with alloy heads, radiators etc. That's the one to get.

No doubting it's a damn fine result for the effort. How did the injector duty cycle go with that?

General appearance is that you've picked up 30-40kW from 3000-7400 using marginally less boost. But the peak power number is roughly similar despite the gain right through the range. How is it that the boost curve comes on at lower rpm?

That thing looks like it now has some stick. What is the spec of your fuel pump(s) and injectors?

Flare job looks great. You should be happy with that. Far better than what the factory did with GTR.

It all works a treat. No overheating issues. Fairly sure I posted up some pics in my motorsport build thread. Summary: its about air throughput. Understand how the high pressure zone in front of the car works, and encouraging/directing the air from that point through the heat exchanger but allowing an escape through a low pressure pathway. The undertray is an important part of that. I reckon using plates/guides in front of the coolers work too, don't allow the air an easy escape path around (instead of through) the heat exchanger. Non shrouded fans are dumb. Thermo setups are not bad provided there is some thinking behind the install, but there is a fair bit of cadence between the switch on / switch off temps. With some clever thinking I'm sure a twin thermo fan setup can be configured so that a single fan operates initially, with a backup in higher ambients. There is nothing at all wrong with the OEM viscous fan design other than making a radiator removal more fiddly and time consuming.

Still subscribed. Hope you've got dyno time booked.

c'mon Harry throw people a few more comments about the Z221 and how they performed at the QSS State Championships. Ambients closer to summertime and a car broadly similar to R chassis on a track layout with variety of corners/speeds/loads.

Look at the slave cylinder first.

The real shame is that the factory didn't do them like that. Looks great, want to see the rears too.