Dale FZ1

Couple of different possible approaches. See if a flush treatment makes any real inroads to the problem. Run diesel spec oil - Rimula, Dello or similar and see what happens. Don't know why you'd make it short run, new oil is new oil and you might as well give the detergent time to work its magic. Lift the cams and buckets, spend a day disassembling and scrubbing the lifters and then reinstall. Quite a bit of time but bugger all expense if it's a home job.

^^ Understood I'm thinking your targets are a bit wide of what's reasonably achieveable and useful. Stock 25DET "might" be making around 150-160rwhp through the Patrol drivetrain and 4wd tyres. I'd get an idea of what it's making before trying to set any target other than the useable rpm range. My thoughts would be 2000-5000rpm. But a short stroke RB25 is a boy being asked to do a man's job when it comes to any off road work. And I'd say the same engine + tune removed from a Skyline and stuck into a Patrol would lose 50hp at the treads. Any Patrol making 300rwhp is making some pretty serious stick compared to a stocker. Keep things a bit conservative and you'll have a fun truck without mega $$ to achieve it.

Duramax V8 and Allison auto. Otherwise the TB45 or 48 if a petrol turbo 6 is what's wanted. Would need fuel company sponsorship though.

There's a couple of people on this very forum who make what you're after.

Except that they don't rebuild Garrett ball bearing cartridges. There's info on turbobygarrett.com about a service program, but it's relevant only to the US market. If the unit referred to by OP has excessive end play, the solution is to replace the entire cartridge.

Lacking information on the tune. Full load AFR? And post up the ignition map. As per other's comments all the pointers are towards WAY too little advance. Not only should it be giving high EGT, it should be making a LOT less hp than it's capable of. Engine-wise I would have a look at cam timing. Whether they are advertised as "drop in" or not, you need to be sure they are set correctly. That's just a given for building an engine with aftermarket cams.

Buy a new cartridge from Garrett. They aren't serviceable units. Problem solved.

Most non-rally people probably don't know who Toivonen and Cresta were. Even fewer would know whether it was the fire, or the impact that got them. But you're right about getting it right.

Given Mick-o achieved one of the bigger proven results with a GTX3071 on E85 @450rwhp, I'll be the skeptic on a HKS 2835 making a comparable 460rwhp with its lower flow potential through both compressor and turbine. If the target has now been elevated to a 550rwhp ceiling, he's in GTX3576 or 3582 territory if Garrett is the brand. I'd be looking a bit harder at some BW literature too.

It's still a heavyweight, and driving barely at clubman level. But it's got "enough" balance and gives "enough" driver confidence to hustle along ok. And it's not a GTR or an Evo...

That new combination should get you into the ballpark, perhaps even 15, 16 or 17kg depending on your car (yours has aero and adjusted roll centres I think?) and the track(s) you run at. Josh knows his suspension best, so I would follow his advice/recommendations.

A few shots from outside the car. Thanks to fellow series competitor Tony Redwood for sharing his photos .

Ran last weekend in Round 3 QSSS at Morgan Park. D Circuit, 1.5km. 4 lap runs. Best run 3.21.761, best lap 49.136. Trialed new spring rates from MCA, couple of alignment tweaks. Got the BMC changes done, and new W3 rear pads installed. Did a basic workshop setup of the balance bar for a starting point. The bad: really poor weather, heaps of rain prior to Friday practice and threatening snow on the Friday meant closed track so no chance to test/adjust. The good: handling and chassis balance has lifted further again. Understeer did not show itself as a constant companion. Rear traction was good, oversteer not an issue on this version of the circuit used. The E 2.1km circuit has 2 challenging corners that test that better. Brakes were further improved, pedal effort and travel now in a good range. I did have issues with bias (too much rear) that gave confidence issues and I did not lean on them as I wanted to. But they were better. Post event checking I think there was a novice error made and it should be good for the final round in the series. [youtube/]

Some good maintenance/refurbishment work going on there Duncan. Brake pressure sensor(s) - going to a pedal box?

The 30DET in my 33 is running a TDO6H-25G 12cm single scroll, sitting on a Hybrid manifold and running a 50mm gate. Running just on 17psi it's making 375rwhp on petrol. Full boost in 4th gear at 3500. Peak torque is held from 3500 to 7000, so turbine doesn't choke it. Car is track only, in my build thread there's a few links to in-car video. I would describe delivery as progressive and extremely predictable, traction friendly. But a touch lazy, and not necessarily what I'd want for motorkhana, hillclimb or road use. The 10cm housing should be pretty good choice especially if you run E85 or water injection. I'm looking to try one at end of season this year.

By all accounts it's a good event. Along with a few others in the surrounding districts, Pittsworth, Oakey and Gatton come to mind. Pretty social, and enough opportunity to have a crack.

Probably the translation from Jap to English. Sounds like free-floating boots have allowed grit into the rack and chewed out some seals. Verify what's happening/happened as best you can, but I'd say the rack needs to come out for a bit of love.

It's not just a simple matter to change the turbine rotor on a BB cartridge. Effectively you want to completely change the turbine spec while retaining the compressor spec. Consider just purchasing a GTX3071 and adding a T3 housing of your spec. Cost effective, and you'll recoup a fair bit by selling off the 2835. All this assumes you are not prepared to look beyond Garrett/Honeywell product.

The point of truth is to pull off the inlet pipe and see if there's evidence of oil vapour travelling through the can and into the inlet.

What's the transmission it runs? And what about block preps? - or are you going billet goodness?

We shouldn't be too surprised that not all models are going to get tested, or 25 y.o. shocks pulled apart or dynoed, or their spring rates checked before a decision is made what will work reasonably well for an application. Any of the 2wd R chassis are very similar in suspension layout, dimensions, and weight distribution. There may be a difference in overall mass for a 32 to 33 to 34, but they are going to respond pretty similarly. So if MCA have their shock absorber platform well sorted, there's only going to be a minor spec tweak to get things working to customer requirements. It's no different for other models eg Evo 4,5,6,7. All very similar, but different. We did a 6, ran with the suggested spring rates that we figured might be a bit stiff for road use, and found that it was both significantly better riding and handling on road, and on track. The point being, don't get caught up in thinking we know all about spring rates. They're just a number, mostly useless to anyone other than a parts/inventory person or an engineer. If a setup works, then it is fit for purpose. MCA have a lot of experience to draw on, and have provided excellent customer service to me and others. The good thing with all this, is you are free to go with other suspension engineers/suppliers if you wish.

I think this mod does help. I generally get a bit of an oily sweat and a few drips around my catch can breather/filters after each session, managed by giving it a quick wipe with a rag. My catch can is a big one, basically a large open chamber with a small baffled chamber to mount the filters on. The can itself might end up with 1.5 - 2 tablespoons full (max) after a 2 day event. I'd probably make the can differently next time around, those breather sweats might not even happen.

^^ I'm with you on this Andy. The product I used is from a glazier, same stuff that goes in atop toilet/bathroom windows for ventilation. Cheap, readily available, and easily worked.

Well done, looking good

Flares = much goodness What size rims/tyres? I hope you're planning on cranking a bit of camber into those steer tyres?