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Dale FZ1

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Everything posted by Dale FZ1

  1. Have you lost the love for ethanol? If it's 300 you want, just change fuel type and tune. You "may" even do it on 17psi but IMO not "that" likely. Give it 21psi and ride the wave, to whatever number that makes. That smaller 52T compressor is likely to be a limiting factor (mass flow capabilities) to hit 300 or much beyond. Lower restriction in the cat + fewer bends in all pipework always pays dividends - compare open discharge capacity for an agricultural water pump vs one that's working against a head. Did you ever update the thread on your 3076 turbo upgrade?
  2. Once you go to a balance bar setup, nothing truly "bolts on". There's a fair bit of work involved regardless of what the design is. Then you've got to play with master cylinder sizes, pedal heights and motion ratios (if the setup allows) to tailor it to preference. Not really something you'd go putting into a road car. For a more dedicated competition car (talking rally or race), once sorted the difference is stark and gives great confidence + feel. I have no regrets going with a balance bar setup.
  3. ^^ this is the best approach. I'd be suspicious that the "internal" VCT oil feed mod isn't functioning as intended either.
  4. I see Tomei does list studs. The blurb generally indicates they are for fairly extreme lift and rpm eg 12mm lift, 10000rpm. No real indication of what service this head is being put to. I stand by comments regarding a discussion with the person chosen to build the thing. Come up with a total combination fit for purpose. "Maybe" these things are a useful/necessary item in OP's case. Doubtful IMO though at a few hundred $$ not much in the overall scheme of a build.
  5. Name the names. Numbers are on the doors.
  6. Get on with it. What's worked, what hasn't, and why/why not. eg. changes to sway bars, shocks, brakes. Turbo failure? Looks like you're enjoying what you have.
  7. What collets does BC specify/recommend for their valves? Are OEM compatible? Check with your supplier. Camshaft caps are held by bolts. Any reason they won't work properly? Are there even studs available? The items being held only have rotary motion. Not reciprocating, and there isn't the pressure of combustion trying to dislodge things. If you establish a plan with your chosen engine builder things can potentially run smoothly as the parts are matched and fit for purpose. There's been some very good discussion regarding RB26 cams/heads and what can be achieved with surprisingly mild cams combined with the right turbocharger system spec.
  8. Does the number matter, or the difference between the two runs?
  9. Couple of questions/comments: A good proportion of the gain has to be attributed to boost and mass-air flow increases. Did much happen when keeping the boost at 24psi and tuning ignition timing to a higher knock ceiling because of WI? How sensitive to ignition timing was the engine? (similar to above question) Did this setup allow you to advance timing beyond MBT, or did you strike knock as a limiting factor? How's the ignition system coping? and what sort of coils are you running? Common theme emerging is that these systems do require basic preventative maintenance (cleaning) to remain properly functioning. Otherwise there's very little negative to be said. E85 runners (some at least) have commented about the importance of system cleanliness, or regular use being associated with no failures. Sounds the same here, different means to a similar end point.
  10. Great effort there Tim! Rubber and rear bias look to have held you back but you should be happy with that.
  11. Got to be a few updates coming later today.
  12. Every event - inspect brake pads, purge old fluid from calipers. Spanner check caliper bolts, all suspension bolts. Spanner check all exhaust manifold bolts, turbo fasteners. Check all I/C piping clamps. Check all exhaust system bolts, rubber hangers etc. Scrape flange faces on hubs and wheels, remove any buildup. Inspect rubber boots. Stringline check of alignment, measure ride height (at each wheel). Check shock absorber settings haven't been altered (mates or kids). Every season (4 events for me, approx. 600 track km) - fresh engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil. Full purge of new brake fluid for brakes and clutch. Fuel filter inspect/clean (10 micron filter cleanable). New spark plugs. Spanner check driveshaft bolts. Clean/reoil K&N air filter. Every second season - fresh ATF for power steering. fresh coolant. Always - look carefully at stuff and fix any obvious problem or something that is loose, vibrating, rattling. Anywhere that is subjected to a lot of heat is where the most attention is focused. None of this stuff is too hard, it's not like we are running gravel rallies.
  13. Sounds good enough. I hope there's either a turbo change or a dirty 30 bottom end in the pipeline for this thing.
  14. Good to see you lads having a go. Apart from "because we can", what's the driving force for running a Neo 25 in the earlier chassis?
  15. Differences in opinion for "best spec" but agreed - semi completed project could be a good starting point. There's a pretty strong Aust based clubman forum and owners/builders/drivers with vast experience that would have a good handle on what works and what's available
  16. Toyota 4AG is a very popular engine for a reason. Seems that MZR Mazda is becoming the modern updated equivalent. Turbocharging can bring difficulties in effective cooling (tiny grille opening), and the type of mid range torque available a bit overwhelming coming off corners. There are people running Hayabusa and ZX14 bike donks - great option but takes a sideways step in thinking. And simple things like a reverse gear become "issues". There's nothing wrong (and a lot right) with a live rear axle and 4 link for track (especially for track). Which is what we're kicking ideas around for?
  17. One of them an ICV - Westfield, Birkin are common names. Guessing they've been playing for long enough to have it about right. What I'm getting at is an ICV built in someone's shed may just as likely not have it right - beware buying someone else's problem child. They are intricate things, and done "about right" ARE mighty capable things. Where I run, clubbies are right up there too.
  18. Agreed - to a point. There's a LOT of variability in chassis and suspension in these clubman things. Some can be pretty close to ok/good, others can be a long way wide of the mark especially if it's been an ICV. And the key to their speed is all in the chassis + a driver to exploit it. Went a reasonable way down this track about 18 months ago, still reckon it's a good track but would take time to get things right. I prefer the idea of turn-key purchase, but reckon there'd be a fair bit of investigating what the chassis/suspension is like, and probably an amount of re-engineering. Time and $$ but the result is a hell of a good thing that with ~130rwkW and running on 205 section tyres can eat almost anything that "average" people can afford to buy/run. Should really shine on technical tracks where speeds are sub 180km/h.
  19. With hindsight I would also have mounted the reservoirs in the cabin. Got a good result but took a lot of fiddly work to mount them in the engine bay. Heat isn't an issue (yet) with mine however.
  20. That facility looks great!! Presuming if it's hillclimb then sub 1.6km length. What sort of max length in the straighter sections?
  21. Can you throw up a bit of information/detail on the pedal box and gearbox? Very interesting aspects of the modification process.
  22. My fabricator has a template for R33. I believe Neil and a couple of others have sourced some from him, no problems. Check to see how similar/same the door dimensions are between 32 and 33.
  23. On a 2 litre, yes. Listen to Roy. TD06H offers a fair bit more turbine flow than the TDO6S or TD06SL2. Impeller sizes are roughly 67, 64, 61mm. The bigger impellers will require more gas flow to get them accelerating.
  24. Did you get a boost graph to overlay? ie. how much (if any) of the low-down comes from boost delivery. Presuming a few extra psi will have been a big part in the numbers up top. Whatever the changes, it's obviously a pretty happy setup and you've hit on a good combination. Must be painful waiting until the steering is fixed to have a drive.
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