sh@un

depends what style of driving you like but pound for pound, turbos will always make more power- just look at horsepower heroes

keep a 12V hair drier in the car

diet-coke

sook

These problems are notoriously hard to trace quickly Have you eliminated the possibility of tyre/rim damage causing and this?

Already covered that- tyre slip against the rollers I've seen cars with the boot loaded with friends or bags of sand/cement smoking the tyres against the rollers (we're talking mega power here) Remember, the ramp rate is controlled by the load cells in the dyno (which can generate monstrous amounts of braking force)- the easiest outlet for the power is in the form of slip. The only accurate way to compare figures is to measure on an engine dyno, if the air temps and relative humidity are consistent between engine tests- and even then it depends on weather both engine test rooms used SAE or DIN standards.

Sounds like fun But not $490 worth of fun =[

familiar

i didn't even read the whole thread Chassis dynos work on tractive effort and ramp-down inertial loads to come up with an a.t.w power figure- there are many things that the dyno operator can tweak to influence the final figure (ramp rate, correction variables, etc) With sensible wheel sizes (16-19 inch, tops) with normal road tyres and normal pressures, and using a DynoDynamics rolling road dynamometer running in shootout mode only, I'd stand by a multiple of 1.30-1.40 giving a fairly accurate power range at the fly. But what does it matter anyway? A Dyno is a tuning tool- may as well work out the power at the piston crown. It counts for s.f.a

Just don't get a 700hp Exedy ceramic twin like I had on my GT-R: nightmare in traffic The later model copper-mix clutches are sooooo nice in traffic

i know i'm late but is it too late to flame??? what a golden post- pls explain how a standard 32 GT-R makes around 170-5rwkW with the attesa fuse out then? the bulk of the loss between the flywheel and the rear wheels on a chassis dyno occurs between the tyres and the rollers (slip/noise), with the gearbox, tailshaft, diff , driveshafts and wheels contributing the rest (mebe 5% between them) good rule of thumb with 'Lines would be to multiply the r.w.k.W figure by 1.30-1.40 to get the rough equivalent at the fly.

What are you going to use your car for predominantly? A lightened flywheel will improve throttle response/willingness of the engine to rev and engine braking- good for performance driving. But on the flip-side, it will make it less pleasant in traffic- you'll need to change gear quicker as mentioned, plus the car will be jerkier when you get on and off the throttle at low revs as well as accentuating driveline snatch...exactly what you don't want in a traffic jam. Just like most things in life, you need to choose the amount of compromise ur willing to accept.

absolute garbage to be sure bet they sell 'em by the container load regardless

What's the issue? You can either order it from Nissan, or you can get a fastener place to match the one on the other side of the camshaft bearing cap once you remove it.

Take one of the other cam retainer bolts to a fastener supplier so they can match the broken one. You'll prolly have to trailer the car to someone (or get a mobile mech) who has the expertise to ezy-out the snapped bolt without filling your engine with schwarf. Best of luck.

stitch

don't bodge it have someone with experience in 3pc wheels look at it

wolf

bells

The fact that it happens under load basically at the revs when the engine is making peak torque should tell you it's a spark problem of some variety. The charge density (air+fuel) is highest at this point, so any weaknesses in the ignition department will show up here.

boxing

over-rated

+1 i hear it tears holes in the space-time continuum

space-invaders

i hate that shiz