paulr33

its a possibility there are a few thinfgs that could make it do what you are seeing - overboosting crap boost control poor exhaust poor actuator setup wastegate not working wastegate poor design turbocharger too small engine tune mangled actuator not working

how does it drive does boost come on mega early or normal linear and its just spiking its ass off

an A/R of 20? this thing must be tiny???? given its listed in twin form for the Z32 it would be a small turbo - are you sure its meant to be used in single application on CA/SR the Ca's and SR's usually drive pretty good sized turbochagers no problems due to their setup and 4 cylinders

numerous things different settings different dyno different ramp rate different air temp and so on ~10rwkw is nothing to worry about it is a reasonalbe assumption a bog stock r34 GTT would make more power than a bog stock R33 this assumes same dyno, same dyno, same operator, same settings, same environment the ones you are comparing would not be the same, therefore whilst useful to compare in a ~ range, not a %100 comparison science

hi 206kw = flywheel figure, its not power at rear wheels. 206kw at rear wheels would be around 150rwkw 140rwkw for a bog stock R34 GTT sounds about right

i think the blitz LM that uses the return pipes could be the only true bolt on kit

what size is the housing? being an N/A the compression is probaby pretty high which would make the turbo would quiet hard (very efficient) it could be the housing is too small

CNBLOW at the keilor village pub (great pub)

without TPS dont even bother trying the basic sensors need to work before the car will start if you have the powerfc plugged in and hand conrtoller you can view ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK to see what sensors are dead (they will be highlighted in black) main ones TPS AFM-1 02-1 WTRT they are the critical sensors the ecu will need before it will start

hi i am confused what you want to do? a) make the car make bov noises? b) fit a different bov? c) make it flutter ? if a, fit a pod filter, the std GTST already has a bov if b, change the bov to a different one, just dont go for an AMTO venting one, that will make the car stall if c, block the std bov off as Tangles has said, that will make it surge and flutter the stalling occurs when using an AMTO setup, that is, you dump the bov'd to the atmosphere

hi your topic was locked because its been covered a hundred times before, you need to search the ecu does not go into R&R from the oxygen sensor it does not panic from the AF reading you dont need to ignore the AF reading the ecu goes into R&R or (panic) from too much air coming into the engine, via the AFM (or airflow meter) that is, you turn the boost up, the engine uses up more air, so the AFM voltage increases the ecu then see's this and panics. an safc will fix it a powerfc will fix it a remap of the std ecu will fix it turning the boost down will fix changing the oxygen sensor wont fix it changing the airflow meter wont fix it disconnecting the oxygen sensor wont fix it disconnecting the airflow meter wont fix it ignoring the 02 sensor wont fix it

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...asts-dash-3.JPG had it there for about 3+ years now no issues

does it manage the shift logic if it does, how does it

the 33 isnt worth much - almost not worth selling anymore, unless you will accept low 10 for it id just keep both, ive ended up keeing my 33, its got 206,000 on the clock, not worth selling but the 33 is annoying for going grocery shopping and taking stuff - ie small boot and 2 door do whatever you like if you want $, sell the jazz

i use a WD HD TV box at my place is great, plays everything cheap too

yeah ABC and SBS have come up pretty good lately screapheap challenege is good young inventors theres some debate one - cant remember its name

even 108 is probably fine for oil temp

no its not safe and its pointless narrow band sensor is useless dont even try to guess the cars AFR from the narrow sensor if you are worried go see a tuner and check it properly

none of these are important for a mild street car the std gauges are fine whats more important is how its tuned watching when it knocks how your boost controller is setup these by far outweighs the cost and purpose of having guages everywhere your boost controller should have a safety cut, ie it should back off if boost flies past the target pressure, ie something fails, it shouldnt run unlimited boost when the engine is knocking you should have a warning or alarm or some form of protection it should be tuned so that you get good economy, it has aggressive timing (within knock limits) and is setup for average conditions

the 10+ year old plug or wiring is likely at fault vs a new ~ish splitfire coilpack set

wow im surprised at that, upside down 02 sensor no wonder you keep killing them.... get another dump pipe and it will be fine what a shame hey, im surprised no one else has picked up on that or noticed? who installed it?

if yours is Type A id say you've found the culprit 02 sensors are very pedantic about location, how they are mounted and temperature/pressure in the exhaust so it could be pressure is too high (unlikely) or temp is too high (have you checked EGT?) - again unlikely in normal turbo applications upside down is big no no, they will die a short death each time, its plastered all over the bosch install guide somewhere if you can find it try searching for Bosch LSU install or google it, youll find it for wideband 02 but its the same dealy for narrow band

yeah agree i rememebr when foxtel had no ads....

yeah you can fix the coils when they die, but often is easier to buy new ones

breaking down spark is different to coils dying coils die due to age, when they die, like i said, they misfire as soon as the engine is on load ie one day its fine, next misfire city, so its all of a sudden. spark breaking down is usually too much boost or wrong gap or intake temp too high or combination of all three usually. if running less boost cures the misfire its probably spark breaking down my coils lasted 160,000 then gave up