paulr33

its common that the intake pipes causing chuffing / shuffling try removing the intake pipework and run them open mouth (just open compressor snout) and see how that goes if it solves the problem, which is likely, the pipework is adding in resistance or mangling the airflow, so the compressor shuffles try accordian style pipe work or add a really big ass 90deg bend in the pipework instead of straight pipes

please dont buy $50 tyres in a GTST you will kill yourself please use common sense in a rwd car with power you need good tyres budget $200 a tyre minimum

will be there

its covered in the FAQ there is no N/A version for R32 - you would need to buy R32 RB20 PFC, which is ap engineering it will need to tuned before it will start correctly, as it will assume GTST AFM, Injectors and engine maps that being said, you could correct it manually on the hand controller to make it start and drive OK then you could drive to the tuners if it was a long way away or you couldnt wait

$50 is ok

please be careful sherriff can come knocking on your door if no pay

its std ecu protection search for -> boost cut or rich and retard protection

sell everything and buy a std rb26

do you want to a) give it a tune b) give it a health check they are different things. make sure you ask for the correct one if you ask for a, you need a suitable ECU or piggyback device for them to "actually tune", ie not just the std ECU look up Nisma EAS Dr Drift any of those should be able to do a & b

the PFC unit you have is correct, there are two versions of the apexi PFC for R33 Skyline RB25 and ECR33 model codes - both work fine and will no issues, RB25 is first generation, ECR33 unit code is 2nd generation it sounds like the PFC you have, has a fault with it, or something is wrong with your car I would remove the PFC, put your stock ecu back in, confirm the car works and runs, starts OK then if it does, reinstall the PFC and turn the car to ON, but dont start it, the hand controller should boot up and be normal (no clicking etc) if its clicking, the PFC is damaged or your wiring is mangled (check if car is OK with stock ecu)

even if you convert it or remove the turbo the car model is still a GTST so it still exceeds factory power to weight, so you still break the law even though its now N/a and makes jack all power just buy a GTS and then GTST later

any 98 will do

hi, this is broken again, can you please reset my password or fix the access? the password has been saved in my ftp client so i havent changed it locally it can you reset it email it to [email protected] i dont have PM turned on so PM'ing is no good

its basically the same unit, same resolution, same voltage etc the main difference is the plug the series 1 AFM has 4 wires the series 2 AFM has 3 wires if you really want to use the series 1 AFM You need to link up the ground wire as the series 1 AFM has two seperate ground wires, and the S2 has only one ground wire it would be easier to use the correct AFM, but it is however possible

the intake piping is the cause is it bendy or straight the accordian style piping reduces the shuffle

Issue #16 of Vic-Spec, SAU-Vic's Newsletter is now available. Link - http://www.sauvic.com.au/member_newsletters

http://www.connexmelbourne.com.au/news.php?newsid=482

nah the purple line is inside and thats in the PC room with no aircon

heres what it looks like at my place purple is inside, light blue outside the light blue is slightly higher as the sensor is near bricks (ish)

the apexi documentation clearly states that the owner / workshop needs to view the tune and conditions to correct knocking issues its not that they couldn't code in a function to back out timing, its because they didnt want to - ie; its a blanket braindead approach or so the legend goes...

I nominate AJ (CAJFLY) for Events group I nominate Ash (R31nismoid) for President I nominate Bec (Bec) for Vice President I nominate Chris (Scotsman) for Motorsport Director I nominate Ferah (DNGRUS) for Events group I nominate Ferah (DNGRUS) for Merchandise I nominate Danielle (33gtst) for Merchandise I nominate Michael (Dezz) for Events group I nominate Patrick (Rekin) for Events group I nominate Tharaka (Mr Oizo) for Media Manager I nominate Wayne (RCHOO) for Events Coordinator

mines going well 206,000 on the clock and due for a service water temp doesnt exceed around 72 deg no issues with detonation under full load - did a knock fix on-road tune about 2 weeks ago

this list is way better.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/90...html&hl=90s

the way i did it was to buy a split dump front pipe / dump pipe combo in one ie; BATMBL split dump or CES or BOS Importing split dump they are on the forums. then take this to your local exhaust shop and say fit this and then supply a highflow 3" cat back exhaust for this pipe and this car then they can match what they have and fit your split dump / front pipe combo also. this way you get a perfect mated 3" turbo back pipe setup and then a standard ish 3" cat back system or you can get the japanese cat back systems but be pre-pared to pay $$ and then ship it around etc

for the average mild street car i think the pfc would win hands down in terms of cost, tuners, plug in and drive off, features, the simple hand controller, and its bulletproof setup for a well geared up track car with specific requirements like drag junk and what ever other fangdangle stuff you may require there might be better options. the apexi documentation clearly states idle issues will occur if you modify the throttle body setup, incorrectly use the map sensors, or make other changes and its a well known fact that multiple throttle bodies and map sensors are a known gotcha in many common ecu scenarios and yes there might be some ecu's who handle it differently, but its a known gotcha (map & ITB) - in relation to sucky idle & chuffing etc - was it djetro & ITB?