paulr33

decent power & not much lag & KKR turbocharger is a contradiction sell the turbocharger and buy a well proven unit HKS 2530, HKS GT-RS, Garrett (many equivs), and so on... sorry but you wont get what you want with the KKR range and the 480 will have more lag (ie; larger housing and wheels)

workshops need quality of control im afraid if an engine has an issue all work should cease and the customer should be contacted to action accordingly i see no logical reason or value in continuing to work on an engine if a known issue is found -> the only time i would see this being acceptable is if the customer over-rides the workshops decision if it was my workshop theres no way i would touch an engine with a known fault (either identified by one of my mechanics or the cars owner) this doesn't solve the root issue, that liz's engine had a problem, but now the customer has gone through the whole process, time, labour, $ only to have a broken setup because of an initial root problem

hello ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK look for any sensor highlight in black background, that is, the name of the sensor, will have a big black box around it this is the sensor that is out of range, out of scope, not working or faulty. you should then investigate which ever sensor is toast ie: if you see TPS highlighted, then check the throttle body sensor if you see PIM1 check map sensor #1 if you see WTRT check the water temp sensor if you see BOST check the map sensor for the boost control kit, if you arent using the boost control kit, turn it off until that sensor returns to normal voltage the engine check light will remain on

Happy Birthday Mr President All the best mate and have a good one

see you then

yes

yeah i used to able to hear the auscars and nascars from calder at my parents place in gladstone park back in the old days

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo....html&st=20 page 2 onwards

dont even bother its too big that would suit a rotary or 3/4 litre engine

happy birthday champ, all the best have a good one

hello this is a hot topic, over the past year so. every week some guy comes along and finds a cheap turbocharger for sale. its typically one of the following 1) an ebay item cheap 2) a friends turbo cheap 3) a "good deal" and its cheap 4) some unknown brand typically these fall under common junk brands such as Monsta, KKR, Super T70, Super T60, and so on then there are the well known us brands, that we in australia dont know a lot about borg worner, holset, turbonetics, master power, ihi and so on... with the junk branders they are a cheaply built, cheaply made unit and sell for cheap the reason they are cheap, is cos they are junk, likely to fail, risk your engine, wont fit without a complete hoast of custom parts poor performance, poor reliability and so on... then theres the us brands, we dont know a lot about, probably need custom work to make them fit and mate up a lot of guess work has to be done as we dont know jack all about the specifics (at least the standard GTST guy who just brought a 33). the us brand style turbochargers are probably fine and cheap, but its a fair bit of unknowns and guesswork to "see" if it will fit ie: not suitable for the common majority of plain jane GTST guys wanting cheap stuff to fit and run without any hard work most GTST guys want everything done for them, that is, all the hard work, the research, the fitting, the specs, the housing, and so on they cant be bothered shoppign for housing trims, matching the dump flanges and wondering if it will fit up etc its much more attractive to get a bolt on kit that will guarantee fit their skyline and go from the time they bolt it on if your like discopotato you can go for a holset XYZ housing and mate it up an ABC compressor cover and match it to Blitz's compressor trims and it will come out fanastic, but for most, thats too hard, too much work and too much technical etc so if you want a simple bolt on kit that works, has no issues, and you want a local warranty -> garrett, local distro is GCG in Sydney, ring them and order what you like to suit your RB25 setup (or whatever engine) if you want a complex solution, involving ordering from overseas, matching specifics and gettting very technical -> go for a US brand. its probably cheaper from US i would agree, given the $ and cheap US turbochagers is it worth it? depends on what you want and if you cant be bothered so in summary, if you are the plane jane GTST guy wanting quick solution and it works then its going to cost $ - cos youll need an off the shelf kit, so a brand with local support is suitable budget around $1500 ish and you should be fine - expecting this from a $400 ebay turbo is unreasonable far too often we see kids wanting 500/600 HP turbochargers for $500 and expeting them to spool normal, have no fitting issues, mate up, match correctly and perform really well it wont happen

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...6%20djetro).pdf pages 14 to 25 i would suggest printing them out and go from there i dont have english translation unfortunately

the map sensor install is crucial for the djetro setup to run properly go back and look at the apexi documentation for the djetro install kit it has in specific detail how to install the map sensors correctly you should read this - its on my website paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com there is some known gotcha's with map sensors and individual throttle body setups but its usually only an issue with a f**ked instal - ie: not correctly

see you all there

it shouldnt matter auto vs manual, should be the same and any exhaust shop can custom make it for you but i know of auto GTST's with the std batmbl split dump / front pipe kits on them, and no issues also if you are still using std turbo be sure to note the auto runs less boost than manual stock, so you can change to manual actuator (or boost conrtoller) and increase it a lot

silver R34 GTT on the western ring road parked, just before sharps rd exit could be dumped, broken down or stolen? RFF-577 from memory

apexi powerfc drop in ecu, no wiring changes plug and play lots of tuners

what ecu? turn the boost way down until you get it fixed if stock ecu -> you need a stand alone if aftermarket -> look at getting in retuned, keep boost way down until you fix it sounds like its detonating

yeah guys its just a plain as day PS2 extension cord for any computer mouse/keyboard i brought mine from dick smiths and you just pop the middle thingy out, as the PFC connector on the ECU itself is a slight bit different but the pins mate up and everything works perfectly. i then leave the extension cord in my car , so when you want to remove the hand controller its two seconds and you can just leave the extension cord spooled up under the carpet

before you run off and get all setup for E85 have a read of the thread by guilt toy in forced induction he tried e85 and its not a straight forward - the thread has all the details

add more fuel to cyl #6 via the ecu tune

its your clutch slipping

yeah its all on my site the main give away is size, and colour of the label and part no is last resort ie: z32s are typically orange and 80mm GTRs are typically purple and 65mm etc

try $25k in australia with basic mods too http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...TR&trecs=28 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...TR&trecs=28 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...TR&trecs=28 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...TR&trecs=28 mid $45k gets you a nice GTR R34 in australia

its a car dealer, what do you expect (theyre a business)? he will buy it from you for 7k and sell it for 11k the next day and hope some sucker buys it at that price if not he has plenty of room to move down and still make lots of profit he is a business, not a buddy to help you out