paulr33

yeah 760 core is too wide i would find another core you might be trying to fit someone else's problem

hi when we speak of compressor surge there are two that come to mind #1 when you come off the throttle without a BOV the pressure must go somewhere so it collides midflight and causes a massive pressure spike on the compressor side of the turbocharger the massive spike in pressure causes the compressor wheel to surge in speed this is usually seen by the "vl turbo tutu tu tut tutu" noise on gearchange or backing off on the throttle #2 this is less common but does occur, the compressor wheel goes past its efficency zone and the speed of the wheel flies past the compressor's fastest's speed the end result is that pressure past the compressor wheel is higher than what the compressor can actually supply. ie the compressor wheel is XYZ variant and can supply 45lbs of airflow at XYZ turbine speed but it surges as pressure past the compressor wheel is actually 51lbs of airflow, thus the compressor wheel surges if you have #2 i would check the turbo specs, check your boost control systems check your intercooler pipework and intercooler core something is making the pressure spike past what the compressor can supply if possible measure pressure at plenum and pressure at turbine outlet

just use some electrical tape or try and mate it up or even use cable ties. once the bracket is bolted back in place the ecu cant go anywhere it will be fine, just as long as the blue loom is securely fastened into the ECU and the ecu is firmly tight in its place you wont have any issues. i used a few cable ties on mine, but you can use eletrical tape etc as well

800? are u sure? thats massive man - almost too big? my core is 450 and its fine

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why? why does two turbos @ 12psi = more power than 1 turbo at 12psi? pressure != volume why is map sensor flawed pressure != volume why is afm better? pressure != volume why does a GT30 make heaps more power at 12psi than a standard turbo? pressure != volume bwhahahahaha

well done on the sale so long 'ol pal glad u got it sorted out

if you have the boost control kit youll have the following MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BOOST will display boost pressure - if you don't have it it will display --- ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK look at BOST - if its 0.00 or 5.00 you dont have it, if its 1.1ish you have the map sensor connected

im using the pfc boost control kit set and forget - no mess no fuss as the boost kit is integrated into the ECU you have three extra features that most boost controllers dont give you - you can see boost on the hand controller (including logging) - you can use boost correction in the ecu - the ecu will fuel cut if boost exceeds target by 0.25kgcm2 so if your set to 0.60kgcm2 boost and something in your engine goes wrong ie the wastegate flap fails or something whacko most controllers will just keep going or some may beep but theres not much else they can do - the PFC will fuel cut and without fuel, the engine wont keep going, could avoid a potential failure from unlimited boost that being said the latest and greatest is dual solenoid controllers if you have a setup that warrants that level of control, go for it

enter it into sau vic deca you can drive all you want and go flat out and compete and have fun its under events check it out

happy bday knackers- well done and see you soon

ill be there

ah nevermind its been discussed enough

happy birthday from all at SAU VIC - good day for a birthday, long weekend!!!! have a good one boys - take it easy

where are u located? might be easier to find someone in your local chapter for some help

under setting ETC somewhere in there is the THR type, its either an up arrow or a down arrow when you mash the pedal it will show you the % opened. so you just change the item just download the avcr manual - i think its even on my website paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com if not, try the VAFC manual, it has the same THR setting and control

theres a video on youtube for AVCR tuning its the best source of how to tune it that i have seen worth watching a few times

its like any boost controller, you set the target boost you want to run and set a low low duty. floor it in 3rd gear or take off in 3rd and load the engine up watch what max boost you hit (make sure its low) and when it hits target boost then slowly increase duty to make it ramp to the target quicker increase the duty in small parts. if you see the duty too high it will ramp to the target boost and fly past it, typivcally resultsing in the controller struggling to maintain pressure ie: it will bleed past the target. some controllers can detect this and cut out / safety cut so be aware. so set your boost to whatever you want to run say 0.85 or whatever you think is safe (check before gussessing) and set the duty low, say 30 or 50 and drive, if it takes ages and ages to make 0.85 or if it never does increase it a little and repeat. try say 60 or 65. dont test it in low gears, try it in say 3rd bog the engine down heaps in low RPM and let it spool slowly dont test and try settings in 1st or 2nd gear it will be too harsh and will ramp instantly try say 20kmh in 3rd and floor it, it should be laggy as and prefect for testing duty / boost gain settings THE hks evc III manual auto setting mode states to take off at 0km.h in 3rd gear and floor it until redline to test gain and duty settings

hello you turn off 02 feedback when you are tuning with an 02 wideband sensor otherswise you should leave it on. the 02 sensor gives narrow feedback to the ecu to save fuel on light cruise all the narrow 02 sensor says to the ECU is "rich" or "lean" and then ecu uses this for feedback to save fuel in light cruise when you yank the throttle cable, the ecu doesnt look at the 02 narrow sensor and goes out of closed loop so light cruise =- look at 02 sensor -> closed loop running floor it -> dont look at 02 sensor -> closed loop not running

do you mean MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BOOST? if it comes up as --- then the map sensor is connected, you dont have a map sensor or its disabled you can also verify this by looking at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and youll see BOST if its 0.00 or 5.00v then its not plugged in, you dont have one or its disabled are you sure you have a map sensor installed? if its meant to be working the sensor name will be highlighted in black in ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

As its summer now, my laptop bag is a bit big and clunky so I changed to the thin fabric autosalon one as its heaps lighter and smaller. So I was the train home (packed) and just listening to my ipod. I was using the autosalon carry bag (laptop style ones) to carry my laptop. The bag decides to give way and the laptop hits the deck in the train. I yell out f**k not realising i had my ipod on full blast and my f**k was pretty loud. Everyone on the train just looks and me and Im thinking to myself - like ahhh perhaps i should have used my inner voice - and said sorry to everyone. Oops! was pretty funny, most people laughed & the laptop still works

yeah there are an old generation and new generation - to date we have no known list of differences or what has been changed. we do know some of the original old old generation use a slow data protocol so when you use it with datalogit it takes ages to make a big change it still works the same, just the data communication protocol is different, so big updates are slow that being said i believe you can work out which "generation" you have from the product code (on the side of the metal case) older generation were ENGINE code specific ie: RB26, RB25 etc etc in the product code so like - RB25-003204-4536 newer generation were changed to be the CAR code specific ie: GTR33L-49039-59440 (the L signifies L Jetro, AFM version) so GTR 33 djetro looks like; GTR33D-43905-099529 etc etc (the car model forms the part no#, not the engine code) the same logic applies with the hand controller vesions FCC1 and FCC NT are the older style hand controller and must mate to a ENGINE code style PowerFC that is - if you have FCC1 or FCC NT (sold as PFC hand controller N001 or T001 etc) it will only work on say RB26-3493429-93492 it will NOT work on GTR33-490394-5922 the hand controller will boot and panic at the apexi logo and freeze i believe this is due to the protocol exchanging a checksum packet to make sure its a valid device and the newer style use a different byte response, so it fails the checksum and panics at the apexi logo there is no harm done by it, you just can't use the hand controller if you have FCC3 (which is sold as hand controller X001) it will only work with CAR style product codes ie: FCC3 and GTR33-49403-324923 will work

Happy Birthday boys - all the best from sau vic and have a good one

yeah the only way out is for the market to crash and it to hit rock bottom it will happen sooner or later, it has to and when its does, the value of money will be jack all -- woohoooo!! interest rates should hit 1% - that would be ace!!! mine dropped %1 before i even made my first payment haha

if the guy is out to steal a car do you think he is going to hand you his correct licence? of course not!!! the only thing if he was going to use his real licence, it might have been avoided as he would have gotten scared but if he was planning to steal it, then he would have fake ID and plently of fake stuff to go