paulr33

nah its not a twin 2530 sorry maybe z32 or something?

i think its one of twin 2530s - ie: RB26 GT2530

the timing belt is a std nissan item, any nissan shop will have it (well can order it in if they dont) the part number can be found in the howto / tutorial section

for 100,000 allow at least $1000

this is usually caused by modifying the intake piping how is the afm setup and what piping setup do you have to the compressor snout? when you replace the standard rubber item its a common problem as the rubber std item has fins to basically disrupt the airflow when you replace it with say steel piping or some form of ducting when you come off the throttle the afm signal gets busted up so i would first check your afm piping and if you can try running with the afm open mouthed, see if that affects the problem that is - undo any ducting pipe work to the AFM

what do u want to know? its a std 12v unit with a map sensor and solenoid there is nothing car specific so adapting it into an xr6 should be as simple as sourcing 12v and ground from anywhere and then installing the map sensor and solenoid using the avcr wiring loom my site would have avcr diagrams paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

agreed powerfc is the ideal solution, or any standalone but for the cost aware, safc is ok

just goto a normal car wash ?

happy birthday and all the best have a good one

good work but id say you have a striction somewhere the most boost you stuff into it, the bigger the restriction you have maybe try a dyno run with the exhaust unbolted ?

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-repli...fm/1045124.html and http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-repli...fm/1045124.html

Another telemarketing scam going around - this one is a trivia one giving away $10,000 02 85070444 If you ring it, they even have a voice msg about the telemarketing scam Avoid like the plague

i guess with all respect travis, we have these threads usually weekly some guy wants to buy a $200 ebay turbo and cant understand why it wont perform ace and be really really good its going to be junk, we have these threads flat out - turbocharger performance isnt sub $300 and never will be you need quality components and specialist balancing and r&d - its best in all circumstances to stay away from cheap turbochargers im not saying to go and spend $2900 on a HKS kit but dont spend $300 and expect it to be great, it will be junk by junk most people mean - bitch to fit - bitch to make it mate up to other items - crappy welds / parts used - laggy as all hell, typically worse than the std turbo - short lifespan / life time yes there are expections to this, but as a general rule, stay away. you can get off the shelf garrett units for sub $1000 these days brand new why would you not go for a trusted brand, locally supported (GCG in sydney) with all the charts, sheets, specs you need you can even choose wheel options, housing options, actuator options and other stuff such as compressor maps

you are using 2 bandaid solutions and 1 monitor only device throw all of your devices in the bin and buy a real ecu failing that, if you insist on keeping it, get rid of the mines ecu and use stock ecu then get the safc tuned properly.

covered in the PFC FAQ - look for "freeze" in the document youll find it first shot it tells you how to identify which model to buy as well it sounds like you need FCC3 or X001 hand controller (2nd gen) if you have FCC NT its also N001 which is first gen PFC Hand controller

for $60 USD id say that its complete junk if you are serious about water to air intercooling i suggest speaking to are.com.au in QLD im pretty sure find out some costing $ info and setup ideas for true water to air intercooling

220rwkw @ 10spi and it comes on at 3800rpm? thats junk

haha thats funny re: him getting fined sorry to hear about your car glad you are ok

yuck

welcome back - sounds like you had fun looking forward to funny stories and pics

yours has been rebuilt tho? mines still unopened std

my car is at 200,000

some 33's had a factory turbo timer get your head under the steering wheel area on the underpanel you might find a switch with a hi and low from memory its the # of minutes to idle it should be a OEM factory turbo icon with a switch on the left side of the steering wheel area from memory

just rescale the AFM To get some more load points to play with and deal with the AFM maxing at 5 grand it will be the same as your map sensor setup anyway at 5 grand youll be well into your target boost so boost wont increase, so map PIM voltage wont increase, so your load axis wont increase both give you the same result get a Z32 and just baby it up as much as you can, relocate the MAF itself in a 3" shell before the throttle body / after intercooler

yeah so reuse datalogit to rescale the map sensor load points its covered in the PFC FAQ how to do it and if you change to a 4 bar map sensor thats also covered in the PFC FAQ how to install and set it up you need to use a new offset and PIM values when you change the map sensor (its in the FAQ)