paulr33

Go for some dinner & see the latest James Bond movie (well not an official james bond movie) When: Thursday, 20th November 2008 Why: Because it should be a good movie (casino royale was ace) Time: Meet at 7:00pm until Late Late Meet Point: To be confirmed - probably Imperial at 7pm Duration: A few hours Event Info: Meet for a quick bite to eat and have a beer. Then off to see Quantam of Solace at the Jam Factory. I would anticipate the 8:30pm ish session (will confirm its not mega booked out on Monday). The movie goes for 106mins (1.5hrs). Tickets can be booked online if thats easier. Movie review: http://villagecinemas.com.au/Movies/Quantum-Of-Solace.htm

good results, no one here doubts the ability of a remap will certainly make power and perform quiet well it has no resale value and if you make changes to your car, you have to typically pay the full price again

so again, you are saying that VCT is coming on at idle? this is not correct and not by design - ie something is broken VCT should not engage at idle - so if you can fix that, youll probably fix your problem the PFC idle either works or doesnt, generally when it doesnt work the engine is at fault ie a toast sensor, a toast mechanical part etc.

but either way it just sounds like theyve done the self idle learn wrong no biggie - read the PFC FAQ in my signature and away you go - takes about 30 minutes to do yourself at home, but youll loose the tune make sure you copy down the tune before you do it

are u sure? does VCT under SENSOR SW CHECK illuminate at idle? VCT is only meant to engage when the following are true NTR is not ON THR is more than 0.30 (ie not closed) RPM > 4700 rpm i dont see how VCT would be on at idle, unless you have throttle open and not in nuetral (or something is broken)

thanks for posting photos up if anyone would like to work with me for a newsletter article writeup please email me paulr33 at hotmail.com i will do all the work, just want to ask some quesitons or paul at sauvic.com.au on msn messenger

wrap up thread here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...ov-t244947.html

wrap up thread here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...ov-t244947.html

post all of your thrills, spills, goofs, wins and photos here for the Micolour SAU-VIC Nov 08 motorkhana

$4 delivered

buy a new GTR33D ECU and sell yours on ebay with a known fault someone will buy it and fix it themselves - and youll get a new GTR33D ECU

the more boost, the more you ring the engines neck basically the higher the boost you cram in, is the higher there is a restriction across the in vs out you are always better off with less boost in any situation a knock sensor is a good indication of how hard an engine is working keep adding timing till it knocks, then back out 2 deg - done

justin911 on collins st

its under the right hand side steering column

close to stock? a stock gtst makes 140rwkw yours != close to stock

hello we have seen this in the past, but what we have also seen is "non comparable results" that is - a car makes a given power in RWKW vs another car in RWKW and we assume both cars are same & dyno settings the dyno sheeet says its RWKW, says its blah blah mode etc etc etc so the guy must have made 150rwkw surely - the sheet says so so you compare this to your car and you make say 50rwkw and the other guy makes 150rwkw what is a likely scenario is one or more of the following; 1) mangled dyno settings - wrong mode set, wrong ramp rate, wrong car selected, mangled correction on the dyno 2) mangled dyno environment - temp sensor in wrong spot, rollers mangled, fan mangled, different temperature (without correction) 3) different diff gears - higher or lower 4) different ratios in the gearbox - higher or lower 5) dynoed in different method - shootout vs non shoutout - engine dyno - hub dyno 6) different fuel used - could be 98, could be 100, could be 110, could be 130+ when i saw wrong ,as in when you compare A and B cars they arent the same ie if you dyno a bog stockish GTST in 3rd gear you get around 180rwkw ish we all know a GTST in 4th gear makes around 140rwkw - but the guy has more bragging rights cos he made more is it right? probably not but the paper says 180rwkw so he has to be correct theres more to it than the dyno sheet - and the owner usually doesnt let on to all the of the mods, i mean, the might not remember all the mods etc?

see you all there

just talk to her about it discuss why it affects you, why you want it changed and what you would like to see different if it doesnt help then try again and express you are loosing interest due to this issue if she still doesnt change then its time to move on but why put up with it for 6 years and then bring it up as an issue? you should have been doing this 2 years ago

you are correct, you just set it

of course higher intake temps will make it knock more

i dont see why it would need a tune issue 15 of our newsletter covers BNR34 diagnostics and how to enter the diag screen on the MFD to enable/disable sensors

mythbusters ahoy! ethanol is fine i ran 100ron v power racing for a few months it contains ethanol my fuel lines didnt melt

a few differences marketing price where its stored brand i dont see any reasonable difference between the various brands of 98 that is, assuming that are rated all at an even 98 octane count. also be sure to note that some refineries arent in all states, so they share resources ie shell 98 stored in NSW might not be shell fuel, it could be caltex and vice versa

same logic, same code, same solenoid, same map sensor, same functional control the avcr has option of -gear based boost control the powerfc boost control kit has option of -boost correction based on intake temp -boost overrun protection (fuel cut on the ecu if boost spikes 0.25kgcm2 past target boost) -boost display on hand controller -boost displayed in logs with datalogit

turbo elbow = goes from compressor snout to intercooler piping front pipe - goes from turbocharger outlet to dump pipe dump pipe - goes from front pipe to CAT