paulr33

this is covered in the PFC FAQ, its in my signature you should read it... http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#20 so in your screenshot we can see NTR is on - gearbox is in neutral IGN is on - ignition is on A/C is on - air con pump is on ECC is on - main engine control F/P is on - fuel pump control FP1 is off - fuel pump not currently running 02H is on - 02 sensor heater control ACR is on - air con something

ask gcg.com.au how small a GT12 is

i think the hks cast low mount manifolds with balance pipe would eliminate it

yeah over the past few years all of the stations are now franchsied too most of the indepedants are gone, long gone of the days of the 80s

load of rubbish im afraid, to control the pricing you need to understand why its going up demand for oil is increasing, so the demand goes up, so the price does if you take away the demand across the board, the price will drop its like houses, if you are told your house is valued at 400k but no one in australia agree's or cant afford it then its not worth that, and will never sell at that price if people can afford to pay around 330k max for your house then you can either wait and wait etc or take the offer so in summary, demand drives price, much like shit on ebay, if lots of people want it then the price can keep going up and up and up if no one wants it, then theyll struggle for a good price. the only thing that i think will drop petrol prices is alternate fuels and less car usage theres no magical solution, no silver bullet, no super secret mythbusters trick to make it go away moving to public transport, using electric hybrids, driving less or less often, make more efficient cars will drop the price as there will be less demand, so its not worth as much. and in 5 years time there will be a tarriff on driving into the city too so keep an eye out for that one so you can expect a few more $ to get into the inner city thanks to lack of planning in the past only now they've decided its an issue and theres too much traffic in the city

yeah thats what you do when using say an RB25 S1 afm on S2 wiring as S2 like the q45 has signal, ground and power so you just mate up the ground wires

here's an idea get a stock shitter - dont spend any $ on it then when your off your p's buy a 15k GTST that has all the work done to it (tons of them out there) and away you go youll have a cheaper car to run on your p's, insurance will be less, if it gets flogged etc or you bust it, no big loss then when your off your p's you can instantly upgrade (as youll have money left over) to a nice GTST youll get a better car, better quality, more safer, and it will have some basic mods too

there is no such feature, the only way you could achieve this would be to unplug one of the coil pack leads

R32 GTST = 7k R32 GTR = 18k R33 GTST = 14k R33 GTR = 22k R34 GTT = 20k R34 GTR = 50k

that would be the logical assumption but i would confirm first

yeah cam get setup and install would be id say $100 in labour easy to the install FC you can do it yourself - so no need to pay for that

i think there different models of the humble Q45 anyway try it and let us know how u go would be good to see some high power out of it if you do - can you please post up the serial # of the unit and a photo of the label wil help other guys yield out incorrect Q45 models

<Reference> 80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW) 80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW) 90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW)

the Q45 afm is a bit of a hit and miss lately, apexi only document it to around 260rwkw the z32 is rated well over 300rwkw, we've seen 360rwkw with a Z32 The Q45 has 3 pins (its on my site paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com) its basically power, ground and signal - the site tells you which which then you just need to work out whats on the rb26 plugs, meggalla's site should have this for you - search for it on google

the shift kit makes it worse on the gearbox

no, its a GTR R34 PFC hence the code on the side BNR34L the l is for ljetro, ie: std afm version it wont work on your GTT

yeah make sure its not something like this...

yeah it sounds like the safc is bogus it should be 0.30v when nothing is on the throttle and ~3.5v ish i think on WOT with the pedal mashed down just check you have set the correct opening mode for the TPS (the diaganol arrow) its in ETC somewhere it lets you choose between a throttle thats 0 to 100% or backwards, ie opposite opening TPS

this has been covered to death many many times comparing various ECU options and information a search would give you all the juicy information thats been dug up in the past as time goes on the answers get shorter and shorter as the older guys cant be bothered re-typing the same over and over, so you get quick short smart ass replies usually Car A intercooler, some cams, some turbo changes, boost, and usual mods Now if car A is fitted with remap, piggybacks, powerfc, motec, greddy emanage, hks fcon, autronic i would expect (and so should you) the car will make the same power (within programmable limits) of the device itself regardless of what ECU is used. ie; a powerfc shouldnt make 20rwkw more than a motec, an autronic shouldnt give you "magical" 50rwkw midrange over a remap and a piggyback shouldnt give you more boost than a remap and so on a lot of people get into the thought of cost vs what you get and go the stand alone's are a waste of money as i can make 200rwkw on a remap of course you can, but thats not what it comes down to. the main result that it comes down to is a summary of the following - performance - reliability - support - user control - economy - installation - tuners so to me, a good ECU or a good "setup" is one that covers most, if not all of those features, as they seem resonable given cost and the importance of a good ecu so when you are comparing options, do a list for your target ECU and what other ECUs you may like to use and youll see quickly which is the most useful and better for your situation so ill do a common one that most guys face; ======================================================================== std ECU with a remap from toshi (lets use him, he is well known) or even dr drift if you like my car has intercooler, exhaust, heavy duty clutch, std afm, std injectors, 12psi, splitfire coils, gtr pump ======================================================================== - performance - no problems with max rwkw power, 200rwkw would be reasonable expectation and obtainable - reliability - rock solid, its the std nissan OEM chip so its the same as the normal ECU - support - well im locked into really only toshi and dr drift, any other work shop cant touch the remap so thats BIG down side for me - user control - i have no visibilty over the car in real time and cant touch a thing, there is consult but its clunky laptop software, down side - economy - will be spot on providing the tuner does his job and 02 sensor is working ok - installation - 2 seconds to install as its just ECU swap and its done - tuners - im locked into only workshops can who do remapping (dr drift and toshi are the only two I know of in australia) - cost - a remap is around $500 ish all up. if you need to do big changes sometimes a full "remap" charge is applied, ie another $500 in some cases so this means if the tune is wrong or you think something is bogus you cant do anything and you have to contact toshi or dr drift and liase with them to get it sorted, this might mean posting your chip in the mail or ordered a "mail style" tune from toshi or dr drift if your out of state (common practice over the years, i think toshi does this) ======================================================================== a powerfc ECU plug in unit - tuned by any workshop you like, pick one, ill pick RE customs in vic my car has intercooler, exhaust, heavy duty clutch, std afm, std injectors, 12psi, splitfire coils, gtr pump ======================================================================== - performance - no issues, should be spot on 200rwkw with good safe tune etc - reliability - rock solid, doesnt miss a beat, thousands of PFC's in the wild with no known issues - support - lots and lots and lots of tuners support the PFC and can do everything on it (some even have laptop software making it even easier) - there is lots of external documentation for the powerfc, its functions and how to use them, even guides on how you can tune parts of it yourself - user control - i can have full visiblity via the hand controller (std item) and it lets me make changes too (providing i learn how) - economy - will be spot on providing the tuner does his job and 02 sensor is working ok and 02 feedback is enabled - installation - 2 seconds to install as its just ECU swap and its done - tuners - i have a choice among hundreds of workshops regardless of state and even a std auto elec can debug most stuff with the SENSOR SW CHECK screen - cost - the PFC will cost around $1100 and a the tune will be seperate so you can see here, sure there is the extra cost of the PFC, which youll get back when you go and sell the PFC but you are paying for the extra features and extra support, such as larger injectors on tap, larger AFM's on tap the super easy hand controller for the common stuff such as IGN and INJ tuning, the ability to make quick on the fly changes be able to use race fuel etc and just quickly make a map change. be able to monitor key engine items with a small compact unit ============================================================================== so in summary both options or others (lets say the HKS FCON) will make power, will make boost will do wheelies in 2nd gear and chirp etc but its all the extra stuff thats where the cost comes from local tuners, having a choice of a few workshops who can fix / work on it if you dont like workshop ABC or XYZ is too pricey

yes, if the tuner takes the time to do on road AFR tuning (not all do, ask if your tuner will) and goes to the effort to tune the light cruise then you can get better than std 02 feedback economy i was able to get over 550km's to a full tank of highway driving with 02 feedback off

there's a secret hack to use the snow button to make the auto box work like a transbreak

think about what you are asking ? there is no way a bov in front of the turbo (ie; intake side) would work, as there is no pressure there once the throttle body is closed the bov needs to be where the pressure gets trapped, ie; past the compressor wheel, but before the throttle body an atmo bov is annoying and not-needed and will probably slow down turbocharger response on gear change the std unit is a recirculating unit and it works fine for all applications

id check the wiring loom before you do anything, look for any custom work etc on the loom if theyve modified the loom (hopefully not) then this could cause issues with the stock ecu from memory the v500 is plug and play so you should be ok and it should be a direct swap back but again check the wiring loom near the plug for any wire changes / wiring work

if the stock ecu has been remapped to suit s15 injectors and q45 and you put the stock parts back in, it will run like a bucket of crap likewise with the powerfc - i would expect same results overfuelling, mega rich and just a boggy tune my advice would be to put the PFC in and DATA INIT to factory defaults then it should start first stop providing you have factory afm and injectors