paulr33

the PFC and the stock use are the same type of case just the apexi unit has the hand controller port and an apexi logo on the case you can swap over the std ecu lid with the PFC lid so that there is no apexi logo the PFC is a direct fit unit, true plug and play so if you are caught out you can undo the PFC slot back the STD ecu and the car will start first crank no wire changes etc are needed to go between std ECU and PFC

a full PFC tune should cost $500 i cannot understand how a full PFC tune would cost anywhere near $1000 for $1000 i would want full documentation of the tune how its setup, what to expect, a backup of the tune on a floppy disk complete map dump and every single value on the 20x20 map changed from std its complete overkill and lunacy, a std $500 should be fine for 9 out of 10 setups

350kms to a tank sounds fine - if the 02 sensor is toast expect around 250kms (absolute max) to a full tank the pfc will support the 02 sensor and use it for fuel economy control 02 feedback can be turned off, but unless your light cruise afrs are done correctly (they should be for $500 tune) then youll have poo economy ie it might make 220rwkw but youll use a full tank in 200kms, that to me would indicate 02 feedback is off and cruise afr's have been tuned or the sensor is toast

this has been covered to death sorry - you really should try searching there are lots of modification guides, how-to's and many step by step guides even documentation like the PFC FAQ covers the PFC vs the SAFC and other common ECU's all of the information is out there, you should just search and read it but yes, in summary a stand alone ECU will give you all the benefits you need this will include fuel economy, response, power etc

he had a workshop or someone else put different wheels on but they used the wrong nut type so the thread was different they went on but didnt hold correctly, so under pressure they popped off

if std ecu - check CAT - check 02 sensors - get a piggyback device to tune the car if stand alone ecu - check CAT - check 02 feedback is supported/enabled - check 02 sensors - check AFR's (cruise, half throttle, wide open throttle)

letting the engine idle for 5 minutes when cold = bad

the nismo 480cc injectors are fine, dont worry about the spray pattern propaganda - the nismo drop in items are fine a few members are using these for 250rwkw no problems

truck = how many weight behind the prime mover? i would be driving probably the same if i was driving a big heavy truck car = 1400kgs very movable in a hurry and easy to make quick decisions

remove the safc reset the powerfc turn the car to ACC but dont start it check the basic sensors, disable the boost kit start car and perform self idle procedure dont touch the throttle during the self idle, if you do, it will kill the idle program, which gives it the instant-stall affect when you start it it sounds like you have two issues - 1 remove the safc, 2 do the self idle learn correctly (it sounds like you arent resettting it) if you reset it correctly and start it without reading the instructions the engine check light will be on yeah some of the menu's are in japanese and you have the correct version the powerfc faq has all of this covered already- you should take a few moments to read it (its in my signature)

the issue wont be hole, it will be that now that the metal has been modified they can no longer predict how the car will crumble in an accident as this will play a key role in your safety and how the airbags operate, they basically say its "unsupported" and thus could be marked as non-compliant the fact that you have a rubber grommet around it and an intercooler pipe inside it probably means nothing, as the hole is still there when nissan certified the vehicle with airbags and no hole there on their CAD simulator and testing bench etc it reacted a certain way now the chassis is different, it will re-act differently. its a shame as my car has been modified the same way, dirty big hole under the washer bottle and my car is fitted with dual airbags so ill have the same issue when i am picked up for it. my first course of action would be to speak to a workshop / engineering place and ask them as ultimately they would have to sign off it i would guess, i would be asking them whats required to make it pass, which i suspect would be a fair bit of fabrication work etc

why not ask them ? or ask a workshop that can supply an engineer cert what is involved

its better to have the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the best way to do this is drive it around normally but dont trash it tactics such as leaving an engine idle for a 5 minutes before you take off for work is bad, as engine runs colder for longer than it normally would so drive it around, just dont trash it till the engine temp is up near 60-70deg then its ok for some normal load etc i usually just baby it around for first few minutes by the time im near the freeway entrace the water temp is well past 55deg so its fine after that

yeah theyre pretty good hey http://www.nengun.com/magazines/

the silver one was me - was asking about powdercoating (they dont do it)

the longer the engine is cold, the worse the performance, economy and emissions are the engine's ideal operating temp is 80deg so it does everything possible to heat itself up to 80deg so below 80deg the ecu adds in fuel and ignition correction to get to operating temp quicker

This is covered in the PFC FAQ in my signature have a read of it- tells you what TPS to use when using the XF throttle body

never heard of those turbochargers, they sound like no brander units beaware of buying cheap no brander units, they are usually junk read the FAQ about buying stuff off ebay in my signature search or browse the rb25 turbo upgrade thread here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html pick the power output you want and just get the mods in the list, fairly simple

hi epolly - try www.uas.com.au or www.justjap.com they would stock std rb20det parts

have a read of - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...Pe-t221021.html

ive moved my notes to a new FAQ style article http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...Pe-t221021.html

Bargain hunting As always, everyone is out to get the best bang per $ for their car (I am too!). there are some cheap parts out there, and some cheap bargains etc But there is a lot of junk too and some complete rubbish. known baddies are out there, here are some of the the usual suspects Known baddies - cheap chinese manifolds - cheap turbochargers - t04 with no useful specs, T70 model turbochargers, cheap plain bearing or journal bearing knockoffs, t3/t4 with no useful specs and other wierd spec turbochagers with no brand backing (ie: a turbo thats sub $300 is junk) - cheap cam gears - know baddies, only go with trusted items and brand names - fake knock offs - there was a swarm of fake apexi turbo timers, be sure u know how to identify a legit from a fake - incorrect models listed to lure suspects - ie listing a powerfc pro as a pro but its a std PFC - again be sure u know how to identify a legit from a fake (or model change) - venom brand injectors - these are junker highflow poor spec items, dont even bother - cheap plenums (no branders) and greddy copies - junk, crap welds, wouldnt rely on it - original greddy items are $1100 new so a plenum for $300 is rubbish - cheap no brander hard piping kits - poor welds, cheap basic parts, lots of custom work to make them fit - original HKS and greddy items are near $900 new so a kit for $300 is junk - fake / knock off bride seats -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...re-t275400.html Typical junk cam gears Cheap junk turbochargers Cheap junk plenums Cheap junk hard pipe kits Research before you buy But like anything do your research, check the seller, check the item, call them up or msg them etc, ask for proper photos etc If you are buying a Xeplex Twin turbo manifold to suit BCNR33 search on google for the item, if you find no matches or hardly any info, chances are its junk Search on SAU for what you are buying, if you see a KKR turbocharger for $250 search on SAU for "KKR" youll find out why its "SO Cheap" Understand the risks Like always with online auction style bidding be prepared for risks, if you buy a set of pistons for $800 there is a risk they may not arrive I'm not saying it happens every day, but it does happen and has happened to people in the past. there is always a risk with online face-less auctions when buying from indivdual people. This level of risk is removed when dealing with places such as online parts shops such as nengun, greenline, importmonster etc as there is tracking, you are covered and can get refunds etc Much like when you goto a local shop to buy say a new water pump, you can take it back, get a refund, ask for support if its dodgy or non-legit etc. Good news & bargains But the good news is there are bargains out there. people write off their cars and want to sell stuff cheaply. people buy lots of apexi avcr's in bulk and then them cheap individually etc. People sell their old hardware taking up space in the garage so they sell it cheap. demand drives the price with the ebay style auctions so if a few dudes want it, its going to go up, and up etc. If no one wants it, youll get it cheap or at least at the lowest price the guy is prepared to auction it up for. check the users feedback and read the comments. The feedback doesnt guarantee they wont rip you off, but it helps prove they are half legit and do sell/send their items correctly. Understand the standard price before you bid ie GTR R34 front calipers will go for $1000 cos people want them. if you see GTR 34 front calipers for $400 with a "buy it now" option, theyre probably fake or non-legit or he is a rip off. However if they start at $400 and the guy has decent feedback and no-one else is bidding on them then you might get them significantly cheaper. he might not know what they are worth which could also explain the low price. this is unlikely but could be possible. but just remember, beaware of the risks (see part #4 above) and that you may not get them item if they are a dodgy trader. A hks turbocharger (any model) is going to be at least $1000 sub because of the brand, so if you see a pair of hks 2530s for $900 then it wont be legit, or they are shagged. A decent ball bearing turbocharger is about $1500 and a pair of good GTR twins is around $2000 at least. a stock rb25 turbo is around $300 and a pair of stock GTR turbo's id say $500-$600. Shit costs money - whats the real cost Theres no magic secret, a turbocharger costs money, a manifold costs money, so dont expect a good turbochargers for your std car for $350, its going to be junk. and lastly cheap items like turbochargers etc may work and be ok, but they may require lots of work to make them fit and bolt up. the flange is different, the gate is different, the flap opens the wrong way, the bearings are poo and so on, so look at the whole package and not just the single item your buying. much like buying a set of EVO calipers, sure you might get them cheap but if its going to cost another $500 to make them fit and line up with rotors etc it could be easier/cheaper in the long run to buy Skyline stuff in the first place.

FAQ: Buying cheap ebay performance parts Intended Audience: Anyone considering buying performance parts from Ebay Technical Level: Low Duration: 15 minutes Effort: Low Result: Excellent, may save you some $ and hassles !!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!! Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The information contained herein is a guide and should *not* be acted upon with consultation from your local tuner (he/she may not agree with my comments / suggestions). If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it. This guide is a document in progress among the Skylines Australia car club and is a user orinentated FAQ for people interested in buying performance parts off Ebay. This lists some of the known baddies out there, what to look for and what standard parts etc are worth and how to pick junk items.

its in kpa x 100 so 150 kpa is 21.75 PSI ie; its running unlimited boost - this will fry the turbo and the engine if you keep loading it up and "trying" it the actuator either isnt opening (no signal, manged signal, or something is blocking it) - it needs manifold pressure signal if there are other junk devices on the vac line the actuator is using, remove them and try again, see if that clears your issue the actuator is getting a signal but the flap is either stuck closed or hitting your exhaust this would be likely with a new dump fit / front pipe fitting to the car i would remove any boost controllers that are fitted as a process of elimantion, they will just be clouding the issue and youll try and fiddle with them and keep "testing" it putting more stress etc on the car and turbo