paulr33

it could and might work it will just be throwing in shitloads of heat check the actuator signal on the turbocharger, where does it get its signal from

i dont think they can just edit the binary code and remove it, they can only probably set it to the max ceiling limit which would be like 240 or 255 it will be a short integer or something along those lines. as they can't just edit the binary code to say don't execute this part, they just edit the values it looks at, in this case they change it from 180 to the max it will support, so 240/250 sounds about right. a stand alone wont have a speed limit at all, but if you've cut the speed signal wire, then the stock ecu has no idea reference how fast the car is moving

do you mean kpa? not many boost controllers display in PSI, most are kgcm2 or mmhg or kpa but turbo charger pressure will increase as engine load does, so when the engine is on load, it should reach target boost quickly and be stable

yeah controllers go from negative pressure then into positive pressure usually its -760mhg then to 0 then they go into positive, so like 0.30kgcm2 0.40kgcm2 and so on

Car #1 GTR with 65mm piping and ducting Car #2 GTR with 80mm piping and ducting i think they would make the same power, torque, response etc

if you have a wideband sensor can you can tune the car correctly and have enough time you can set the car up and get better economy the than std closed loop feedback so you wouldnt need to worry about the narrowband signal, but yes, if your box supports it, it can provide a 0-1v narrow output for ecu input

hey hus, can you check your pm - do you have a whole set? what colour are they (black, chrome?)

well done and congrats - all the best

from my site http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...ter-wiring.html - I have; RB25 Series 1 AFM Wire A - Not Connected Wire B - Signal Wire C - 12v Ground Wire D - Signal Ground Wire E - 12v Power do each of your pins have letters next to them? or are they in order? check before doing ANYTHING RB25 Series 2 AFM White with Blue Trace - Ground Orange with Black Trace- Signal Black with White Trace - 12v Power

no you cant use RB26 injectors on your Neo. you need to go for the nismo 480cc ones.

ah yeah its a remap of the std ecu and you have an safc as well what did you ask for- a tune? just a dyno run/health check? its could just a case of a few points arent setup properly what was it like before they 'tuned' it

yep ash is spot on, its the stock ecu doing its usual protection recommedn action - look and read up on - piggyback devices to work around - remapping standard ecu - stand alone ecu - dropping boost until you get a normal curve then decide which path you want to go down

i think the stockers max out around 300awkw

none, it will provide no power gain z32's are only useful when you max the standard afm's a quick search would have told you this z32's are also larger so nothing mates up, they are 80mm vs the GTR stock ones of 65mm the preferred upgrade path when you max the stockers is the nismo 65mm AFMs they are z32s internals inside a GTR afm shell so everything mates up

good luck, if you are looking for one of the gold centre caps theres a few on yahoo auctions (and has been there for ages too)

you have pm

someone please sticky this - im not ttyping all that again next time someone asks why an ebay turbo is $350

hi, a few words of advice bargain hunting as always, everyone is out to get the best bang per $ for their car. there are some cheap parts out there, and some cheap bargains etc but there is a lot of junk too and some complete rubbish. known baddies are out there, here are some of the the usual suspects known baddies - cheap chinese manifolds - cheap turbochargers - to4 with no useful specs, t3/t4 with no useful specs and other wierd spec turbochagers with no brand backing (ie: a turbo thats sub $300 is junk) - cheap cam gears - know baddies, only go with trusted items and brand names - fake knock offs - there was a swarm of fake apexi turbo timers, be sure u know how to identify a legit from a fake - incorrect models listed to lure suspects - ie listing a powerfc pro as a pro but its a std PFC - again be sure u know how to identify a legit from a fake (or model change) typical junk cam gears cheap junk turbochargers research before you buy but like anything do your research, check the seller, check the item, call them up or msg them etc, ask for proper photos etc if you are buying a Xeplex Twin turbo manifold to suit BCNR33 search on google for the item, if you find no matches or hardly any info, chances are its junk search on SAU for what you are buying, if you see a KKR turbocharger for $250 search on SAU for "KKR" youll find out why its "SO Cheap" understand the risks and like always with online auction style bidding be prepared for risks, if you buy a set of pistons for $800 there is a risk they may not arrive im not saying it happens every day, but it does happen and has happened to people in the past. there is always a risk with online face-less auctions when buying from indivdual people. this level of risk is removed when dealing with places such as online parts shops such as nengun, greenline, importmonster etc as there is tracking, you are covered and can get refunds etc much like when you goto a local shop to buy say a new water pump, you can take it back, get a refund, ask for support if its dodgy or non-legit etc. good news & bargains but the good news is there are bargains out there. people write off their cars and want to sell stuff cheaply. people buy lots of apexi avcr's in bulk and then them cheap individually etc. people sell their old hardware taking up space in the garage so they sell it cheap. demand drives the price with the ebay style auctions so if a few dudes want it, its going to go up, and up etc. if no one wants it, youll get it cheap or at least at the lowest price the guy is prepared to auction it up for. check the users feedback and read the comments. the feedback doesnt guarantee they wont rip you off, but it helps prove they are half legit and do sell/send their items correctly. understand the standard price before you bid ie GTR R34 front calipers will go for $1000 cos people want them. if you see GTR 34 front calipers for $400 with a "buy it now" option, theyre probably fake or non-legit or he is a rip off. however if they start at $400 and the guy has decent feedback and no-one else is bidding on them then you might get them significantly cheaper. he might not know what they are worth which could also explain the low price. this is unlikely but could be possible. but just remember, beaware of the risks (see part #4 above) and that you may not get them item if they are a dodgy trader. a hks turbocharger (any model) is going to be at least $1000 sub because of the brand, so if you see a pair of hks 2530s for $900 then it wont be legit, or they are shagged. a decent ball bearing turbocharger is about $1500 and a pair of good GTR twins is around $2000 at least. a stock rb25 turbo is around $300 and a pair of stock GTR turbo's id say $500-$600. shit costs money - whats the real cost theres no magic secret, a turbocharger costs money, a manifold costs money, so dont expect a good turbochargers for your std car for $350, its going to be junk. and lastly cheap items like turbochargers etc may work and be ok, but they may require lots of work to make them fit and bolt up. the flange is different, the gate is different, the flap opens the wrong way, the bearings are poo and so on, so look at the whole package and not just the single item your buying. much like buying a set of EVO calipers, sure you might get them cheap but if its going to cost another $500 to make them fit and line up with rotors etc it could be easier/cheaper in the long run to buy Skyline stuff in the first place.

haha this sounds like the southpark episode where spielberg redoes all of the star wars movies with new effects and crap http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Hat

the car will run like a bucket of crap with a hole in the intercooler or any of the pipework this is because there is a vacuum leak and its basically atmospheric pressure instead of vacuum so until you have leak fixed or the core replaced it will run like poo

no worries, dont stress just keep a log of the events etc he can use his high beam, regardless of speed limit zone, theres no law against using high beam lights, you are encouraged not to blind over drivers, but using them in a 40km/h zone or 60kmh/z or 110km/h zone is fine and acceptable. its your responsibility to keep a safe distance from the car in front so technically its your fault, but if he is under the influence of alcohol then that may instantly void any of the possibilities etc. he is allowed to stop anywhere on the road in the event of an emergency, ie: i can stop in a 60km/h zone for any reason i see fit as long as my brake lights work. if you run into me, its your fault you weren't paying attention or because you were travelling too close or too fast. dont stress at all dude, if they have given him a bretho test and failed, then he is goners and it should be fine

no worries - yeah 02 sensors unplugged wont cause harm, but you should plug them in, get some better economy the red wire could be anything - its probably the speed cut wire, does it the stock ecu cap out at 180km/h on the track?

the main difference you will have will be response, power, fuel economy and torque all of these should increase once you fit the PFC and tune it correctly

see my pic - ive circled in red the true AFM plug, trace where the wires go

and are you sure he said air flow meters? it could have been 02 sensors, they are on the dump pipes, the airflow meters are pink labelled plastic things on the air intake pipes if it was the 02 sensors, the car will run fine, it will just waste a bit of fuel on cruise and your economy wont be the best - no power gain by reconnecting them