paulr33

house for sure - a car will drop in value regardless, they vary rarely go up houses usually go up, and not down and are a solid investement any work / changes you make usually increase the value of the house you can use the house to borrow money for other investments as collateral too mind you there is a massive difference between a 30k skyline and buying a typical 3 bedroom house a house is a long term commitment and you need to make sure you can service the loan ive just brought a place so ive been through the typical crap and its a long painful journey you dont have to give up everything just cos "thats how it is" you need to balance and manage it im not giving up my R33, but it was paid off a long time ago so thats ok mind you it will keep costing me and more as time goes on, ie: its got 195k on the clock so its a bit old and tired so you need to factor that in but im catching public transport as working on collins st and driving to collins st = waste of time and $600 ish easy a month on the train is so much easier and $100 a month so public transport isnt as bad as you think there are many many options when buying a place too you can buy a house to live in, buy a place to rent out buy a place on interest only loan and hope it goes up in a few years - then sell it - so you never pay it off

tuner spec hey

The physical ECU connector is the same, the ECU is the same and stand alone replacements are the same unit The known differences between R32 and R33 GTR that I know of - different 02 sensor types (titania vs std lambda) - map data

yeah sorry so its a twin scroll housing well there are two ways to achieve a twin scroll turbocharger setup 1) use a suitable twin scroll housing - evo lancer has them stock, some of the hi spec garrett units might have (t04z), some of the extreme HKS models might have them etc - note these are SINGLE turbo setups with twin scroll housings on a single turbo manifold with collectors splitting between each of the 'scrolls' so cylinders 1,2,3 lets say goto scroll 1 and 4,5,6 goto scroll two 2) use a twin turbo setup using a twin turbo setup is another way of achieve twin scroll setup, but with two turbochargers two turbochargers std units, two manifolds, cylinders 1,2,3 goto turbo 1 and 4,5,6 goto turbo 2

no worries , just a glint of hope it came with english manual being a US based dealer but all good - thanks

nothing planned as yet might be later in the week,

go check out howstuff works and read some information on twin turbocharger applications (and singles for that matter) then once you have exhausted all avenues and understand the inner-workings youll be able to answer your own application if you cant be bothered (like most) then read on nissan set up the GTR for optimal responce, power and balance being a std production car they would have been able to get all of those from a good twin turbo setup other cars experiement with Bi-turbo setups, that is, two turbochargers, of different sizes common applications of this type are the subaru Libery B4 it has one small turbo and one large turbo, a wastegate control value / thingy opens and closes directing exhaust gas between the turbochargers and so forth the main problem is a big fat power and torque dip where the changeover point is in most cases its unavoidable and you just have to deal with it (usually around 4k ish) if you can avoid the big power dip from the turbocharger changeover then this is a good thing so the idea of two turbochargers same size and split the engine is half is where the GTR setup comes from why overcomplicate it and make a bi-turbo setup for no gain and a big dip in power / torque now usually when you talk bi-turbo setups most guys pipe up and say but the porsche 900 (or insert random model porsche) runs bi-turbos and it makes 2500BHP at 1500rpm there is a big difference in engine, cost, research budget and target audience of porsche so dont bother comparing it in summary - it sucks - overcomplicated - costs - big power dip during changeover

the PFC and std 02 sensor from memory is from 0.0v to 1.0v from a narrow band 02 sensor so that being said, if your wideband sensor has an optional output for narrow band applications and its in the range of 0 to 1.0v then it should be fine the PFC wont be any wiser, as long as the scale and logarthmic of the output is fairly normal it should be ok well the pro is obvious, you can ditch the narrow band sensor and have 1 wide band sensor for both uses (wide guage and narrow ecu) con im not sure there is any? as long as the output is normal and 0 to 1.0v it should be fine the worst case would be the 1v output is useless and it will waste fuel on cruise you can check the input signal on the PFC by viewing ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and checking out what 02-1 is at idle - it should be under 1 v

id say the injectors are causing the problem - its the only thing that make senses the PFC and Z32 is bulletproof, and its a new afm as well it sounds like the injector latency is bleeding off and trails off too much so at the start its ok, but as time progresses (30 seconds) it out of scale so it overfuels and stalls the AFM is following the amount of air going into the system, so unless the afm is fault, it cant lie that more air is going in, if that makes sense the afm is reactive circuit, it tells the ECU how much air is going in, it doesnt allow or deny more/less air to come in, only reports on it

happy bday mr cool all the best

happy bday have a good one

what else did the FC come with? warranty card? velro stickers? manual? english or jap?

hmm this still is good

i dont mind can do that, but their menu is ordinary as

well if your water temp is 80deg and your air temp is 80deg id say its summer outside or your compressor working hard do you have a proper air temp sensor installed? where is it? what does ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK show for AIRT at idle?

doesnt have to be tuesday night just picked it out of thin air

anyone up for dinner on tuesday night - anywhere local to the city? open to suggestions & ideas

This does not work under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK do you see a sensor called AIRT? if you do, it will work as the PFC you are using has that sensor active and ready if you don't then the PFC you are using doesn't support airtemp hooking up a sensor to any wire will achieve zero (in fact it puts the PFC at electrical shock risk) so if you have AIRT go for it, if you dont, dont bother R32 PFC does not have AIRT, same as R33 as R32 PFC is remapped R33 PFC with VCT removed, map changes and injector changes if you want the correct part # for the GTR air temp sensor open up nissan fast, load in an RB26 VIN then goto the view of the plenum and intake , and youll see the GTR air temp sensor just in front of the throttle body its the same physical part as the water temp sensor, just with a J on the end of the part #

if you are ok with cop attention keep the skyline if you arent - sell it - expect a lot of attention - its an import and a known hoons car so youll get lots of attention, even though its an N/A

if it was me, and i was dead set on LPG then i would sell the skyline get a std novated lease car and LPG that like a std commodore/falcon and LPG it on a lease

whilst i do (and many others) wish you best of luck with it most are a bit cynical on LP gas the usual known gotcha's distract many skyline owners away from it and most skyline owners accept the fact they will be paying a premium price to run their car you buy a skyline for a reason, not an A to B car, so the usual fuel cost tactics dont always apply - hell i put 100ron in my r33 for the sake of it (and it reduces knocking on aggressive timing). so good luck and hope its what you expect, make sure you are aware of the known gotcha's with LPG, they are covered on here, just search for "LPG" in the forced induction section.

some of the old beastie boys or regurgiatator stuff

2 tuners in australia - awesome dude, sell it like i said before and buy something locally supported there are dozens of great ecu's with lots of tuner coverage there is nothing the fcon does that the other ecu's wont do

if i can borrow your car - you can borrow my speakers

considered diff gears? 4.3 or 4.5 might give you the level of acceleration you want with same turbo you dont have to have more power to get quicker acceleration