paulr33

it will work fine, the CAS is visually different but works the same you wont have any issues, i know of a 40th anniversary R33 1998 model with normal R33 PFC works fine

im happy to send it to you - but youll need to prove you are a legit fc datalogit owner - a photo of the serial # on the box or the box itself with a thumbs up is enough for me

well are you using the auto ecu? if yes then find what wire on the loom is the auto box signal for "P" and check where the goes im almost dead certain if you are using the auto ecu it needs signal to detect "P" much like the manual box has "NTR" as a relay in std ECU sensors

i dont the logic for the auto ecu and gearbox but if he is using the auto ECU check the gearbox sensor wire, if its got no signal or its grounded or something wierd the ecu might not start until a certain voltage is on that signal wire ie: out of park but this only applies if he is using the auto ecu

are you using the auto ecu? it might be checking if the car is in "P", im pretty sure engine wont fire if it cant detect gearbox signal (for auto ECU). try running ECU diag with a consult port wired that, that wouuld be the quickest way to isolate what is wrong, it even tells you why it failed to start

the 02 sensor value displayed on the Apexi turbo timer is pointless and a waste of space it will provide you with nothing useful and will never show anything accurate, its a slow and narrow sensor. simply ignore the readout and dont rely on it for anything

you can send a pm to "abu" he has an ap eng r32 PFC for sale with hand controller the hand controller will have a sticker on the back with a version no, it should be FCC NT or FCC1 the model when purchased new is usually listed as N001 which is FCCNT or FCC1 the newer style hand controller is usually listed as X001 which is usually FCC3 FCC3 or X001 part # will NOT work - dont bother check with abu but im certain it will be FCC1 or FCC NT- in the case find an FCC NT or FCC1 or N001 part # hand controller (nengun.com have it new)

all of the parts that wear out or become worn are replaced when you hiflow a turbocharger - bearings - wheels (exhaust and compressor) the exhaust snout is bored out and a larger compressor wheel is fitted (new also). so it can flow more exhaust gas and drive a bigger wheel. a new larger compressor is fitted. which in turns drives more air into the engine (hence power increases). finally its all balanced out to make it prefect at 100,000+ rpm. the only parts that are retained are the housings, and main core. this is because there is no need to replace or change them and it only adds more cost, plus it wouldnt mate up to the std items if the housings, flange etc changed. so a highflow of a turbo does two things - service of the turbo - increase power if you organise a std service/recondition of the turbo they may just replace the bearing pack (commonly known as a CHRA) and balance it again i am insure if they would replace the exhaust and compressor wheels at a 100,000 km service for example

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i think and most would probably agree its suicide at 14psi on stock GTR turbos on a race track youll last two laps id expect before the wheels fail then youll risk the motor too if i was to track my GTST with stock turbo id run 10psi , i wouldnt trust 12psi on a track so for GTR 14psi is suicide, i would try around 11psi at the most and see if its safe

i agree with ash the 3037s kit is designed for evo's so it has a spot on hks manifold, gate and exhaust housing all to suit the 4g63 setup nicely

id be looking at the dyno graph, plot power and boost it might give away an inlet restriction, or exhaust restriction particulary the manifold might be making it choke, so no power gains regardless of how much boost you dial in

dont know - we could guesstimate at best guess the only rare r33 models i can think of are - series 2 & 4 doors - series 2 with active lsd - series 2 with 40th anniversary - series 1 & 2 GTS4

there's a smick evo 3037s external gate kit from HKS if i had cash and an evo i would go this for sure http://www.mamsparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=738

draw a diagram or better yet get a photo of the engine bay particulary the intake piping

whats the big issue? i swear a few people have said yes its a series 1.5 - its a series 1.5 to be a legit series 2 i would expect - series 2 interior - series 2 dash cluster (bevelled warning lights, s1 has flat dash lights) - series 2 dash (bubbled and textured, s1 has flat matt black) - series 2 wing - series 2 engine and front bar, lights, bonnett - 1996 VIN or build date, anything pre 1996 is almost always 1.5 or 1 - series 2 boot SKYLINE panel is same colour as car (s1 has clear panel)

here are the rough numbers from FAST... ECR33 - 001000 1993 August (First R33 Built) ECR33 - 063435 1995 December (S1.5 around here somewhere - ballpark near ECR33 mid 055000) - model change- ECR33 - 102000 1996 January ECR33 - 135381 1998 April (Last R33 built) so from this we can see ballpark there are around 65,000 Series 1's and approx 35,000 series 2's

1995 march build - it will be a series 1.5

id go looking at evolutionm.net to be honest its a dedicated evo forum, more info than you can poke a stick at on the evo i would go for a turbo that retains the split pulse setup too

PFC users if you cant find 100ron and your tuned around 100ron you can use the temp IGN adjust to back out say 4 to 5deg IGN timing this should stop the main bulk of detonation on full load when using 98ron fuel. i would only use this as a temporary measure (hence the term "temp ign adjust") and get it retuned properly. the temp ign adjust feature is covered in the PFC FAQ and it resets itself when you power the car off (so you need to set it each time).

i would imagine the snout hole wont match up, so backpressure will be lost around the larger snout hole

series 1 for sure

no it cannot same as the VAFC

no idea try most online shops btw nengun.com have the vspecII MFD

this has been covered to death search the rb30 thread and read it all youll find what you need here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...sions-f184.html