paulr33

anything is possible - smell the PFC, can u smell any burnt items? open up the case and look for burnt tracks/components put the PFC back in and turn car to ON but dont start - see if the hand controller works normal

thanks have added to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...Pe-t221021.html

for that level of operation something is horribly wrong ticking relays is a sign of damaged components usualy along with flashing engine check light something is wrong dude i would undo main battery terminal - un-install powerfc, re-install stock ecu confirm car runs as normal and no wierd shit (start it etc) then if all well put the PFC back in turn car to ACC but dont start it check normal hand controller operation etc then if all ok start it (or better yet do DATA INIT before you start the car - its in the FAQ)

nice find - mine has had 0.85kgcm2 and a lean as all hell tune for around 100,000kms the car has 195,000 on the clock and its still the standard turbochargers.

it sounds like he is using an FC pro dongle with the japanese version of FC pro there will be maps already present on the powerfc unit your car is running, so thats not an issue

it will be the cold correction in the ECU the ECU has correction based on water temp - the colder it is, the more retard the timing is and the more rich it will be until it reaches 80deg water temp - it has linear scarling of correction upto 80deg temp. as the water temp rises, the linear pans out ie: 0 to 15deg will be more aggrssive than 50deg to 80deg as an example

most people buy an air/fuel gauge and plug it into their standard 02 sensor the standard 02 sensor is only useful to the ECU as its provides some feedback for fuel economy operation, its called "closed loop" the ECU reads the 02 sensor and trims fuel mappings in real time, in the effort to give you economy on light cruise at say 100kmh in 5th gear its not used when your floor it or load the engine up on boost or when you vary the throttle constantly. closed loop needs a consistent light cruise for it to work and run properly. so most poeple fit an air fuel guage and watch the lights go spastics (they do cos its a narrow/slow sensor) and believe they are wasting fuel. the standard ecu is quiet good and giving reasonable fuel economy. you should under normal conditions be able to get 400kms to a tank with the stock ecu. if you floor it, the car is gonna load up, its going to come on boost and its going to use more fuel than if you light cruise when driving, just drive it like a normal car, there's no need to make it more complicated than than a lot of people act like retards when they first get their turbo car thinking they MUST be on boost all the time or must change before 2500rpm etc etc (similar to how you are now).... if you take off and drive normal (not full throttle) and change around 3 grand youll will have fine fuel economy boost or not boost, your economy will be fine - end of story. if you mash the throttle hard it will use more fuel (like any car) id say you are looking at the ECU pinout wrong or the wrong ECU pin out for your car - make sure its the right diagram and its rotated correctly use the pin map layouts to work out which way to look at the ECU from memory its something like 10 8 8 8 (in the number of pins per block) use that to work out which way the diagram is looking at the ECU. if you splice the wrong wire, you risk blowing stuff up

stop using a narrowband 02 sensor for a reference of fuel economy indication the sensor is slow and narrow and youll go between rich and lean non-stop ie: useless readout learn to drive like a normal person, it only comes on boost when you load the engine up, so if you dont floor it, guess what, no boost reasonable economy = 350kms to a tank poor economy = 250kms to a tank if you are getting poor then replace your 02 sensor, its a $100 part from any auto shop (EL Falcon 02 sensor is the same) and most places can fit it for about $80 its on the dump pipe, with the right ratchet attachment (like spark plug dongle) you can do it yourself once fitted, reset the stock ecu and youll be fine

never heard of it whats it say in ETC, VERSION ?

i would not see any reason why normal diag wouldnt work on a remapped ecu a remap is usually an edit of the IGN and INJ maps and some adjustments to the airflow protection (set it really high) and set the speed cut really high ie: they dont edit ECU Binary code, they just change values

read the thingy in my signature about cheap ebay parts known baddies in the injector land are venom hiflows its in the document in my signature

yes the standard powerFC version uses standard AFMS only the djetro version removes them and uses its own map sensors there are no drawbacks of using the standard AFMS using AFMS is better than using map sensors the standard AFMS will max around 300rwkw ish and youll need to upgrade them - the nismo AFMS are z32 internal inside GTR shells so you can retain std pipework, ducting etc Z32s are 80mm so if you goto z32s you have to change all the pipework etc nismo AFMS are 65mm but with z32 sensors inside so same power level just plug and play on the GTR with std airbox, pipe work etc

have a good one go nuts

happy 21st birthday - all the best have a good one

all the best - happy bday and have a good one speak to you soon take it easy

why the fcon ecu? you are locked into two tuners in the country if you get shit service or prices are stupid you have no choice and why ditch mutliple throttle bodies to keep an ecu happy? seems silly to loose functionality and gains to make an ecu happy

does it do it when the hand controller is unplugged

i'd be interested in the pin connector (blue thing) and the state of it is your securely fastened and neat or is the wiring shabby and kinked etc? it could be something as simple as the pins for the ign for each cylinder is a little weak/finicky and when users remove the stock ecu and fit the PFC its enough movement to make it not contact properly its a long shot , but would explain how your mate now has the issue you mentioned - only after removing ECU and plugged in a new one so it could be the connector on the car side (blue plug) or the socket on the BNR32 PFC's

both issues are covered in the PFC FAQ - its in my signature

please read the link in my signature before you proceed the one about cheap performance parts on ebay http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...ml#entry3896612

once you confirm correct #'s please pm me ill add to PFC FAQ

sorry to ask by why re-invent the wheel? whats wrong with off the shelf hks / apexi / trust items takes out of the guess work / fitting issues etc

a bit out of left field but what about using the twin spec turbo in a single spec setup? that is, using say a 2835 from a twin GTR kit on a single turbo setup. troy (roy) has a twin trust turbo setup, but is only using a single turbo on his rb20. it has one of the best curves and setups ever seen on an rb20. there's a 2835 kit in twin form for the GTR with twin external gate. i dont think you can order a 2835 in single form with external gate. any ideas / ball park on the specs of the 2835 ex gate version from the GTR twin kit?

why would it not suffer the same fate as shell's 100ron? lack of demand for it and rising fuel costs - would spell the same fate?

social engineer your way into his hosting, and whoever hosts the box then get into his network and systems and away you go