paulr33

yeah if they want to and can afford it as well

see now that was much more useful

well the aus spec turbo is different so that could explain and provide some weight to the aus spec having smaller injectors

1) check 02 sensor on SENSOR SW / CHECK - see if its working - if not replace it 2) check cruise AFRS (not max load on the dyno, cruise afts) - if they are about right then its ok, if they are rich, lean them out a bit 3) make sure 02 feedback is on 4) drive normally, dont keep going on and off the throttle or boosting up the engine

the fact of the matter is simple, it can and will fail soon the mean time between failure is rapidly advancing on 15 year turbochargers. if you can afford to rebuild it keep going and dont worry if you cant and dont want to fork out the 5 or 6k to rebuild it and buy new turbochargers then replace the stockers now. either with oem steel wheelies, larger steel wheelies or some other bolt on stock-er-look-a-likes but for god sakes, dont keep going thinking it wont fail, cos it will and when it does, youll be upset cos it will be rebuild time we dont care that you are making xyz on zyx boost or xzy on stock turbo's but you need to know that its a timebomb and youll regret it when it fails, unless you have unlimited money

rather than just saying its better how about providing some useful info on to what features are better and how they help the average skyline owner. this would give all the people interested some insight and help a few people. saying "its better" doesnt help much, be buggered if im spending $500 more over another ecu for no reason. how many more tuning points?

quite a few helpdesks run over night, maybe check with those ?

i didnt believe it for some time either but basically the exhaust wheel fails and due to the manifold design there is usually excessive detonation or ceramic sucked through the valves = rebuild time

can u afford a rebuild? if yes: keep going & good luck if no: replace the stockers with steel wheelers if not, larger units as well its a time bomb dude

the boost control port on the ljetro and djetro PFC is the same its most likely the 3 pin socket version that you have as the GTR has its own solenoid wire on the loom. the djetro map sensor kit simply needs power that it piggy backs off the boost control port. you can see in the PFC how it is connected when using the boost control kit and the djetro kit. i have used the pFC boost kit and it works like any other boost controller. you set the target boost, set the gain and thats it. make sure its give you the level and ramp rate you desire and its done. there is nothing more to boost control that i can see ? unsure why u would call it featureless or unstable. you set the boost and thats all there is too it. its around half the price of the avcr and does the same thing

yeah someone actually put up the pin out diagram for the hks cable and made soime binary map copy program

fc edit is just software to get onto the powerfc and edit / view all the crap it would be like the hks pro writer software. someone could write some code and a specific cable to speak to the fcon and edit all the crap on it

yeah so $2500 drive away and your locked into HKS only authorised tuners and have no access to the ecu what so ever for diag, checking and monitoring? and is that version the stand alone or piggy back unit ?

you wont get much answers im sorry this topic has been covered in great detail over the years all the good info is already on here, just do a search for it but in short you can just weld off the ex gate exit point if you are a hack and dont want to change the manifold or you could weld up the internal gate on the turbocharger

whats the complete cost of the f con v pro ? install, looms, and other misc crap? what the price of equiv motec unit ?

good find on the tcs bypass

in the tutorial section is a parts thread by me look in there, it has the aac valve parts speak to nissan, it cant be too much no more than $50 ? just remembered the part no# is for ecr33, not sure if its diff for er34

whilst a remap is great, it hardly helps if you want to adjust any of the settings let alone monitor the engine and take decisive action

oh, i wasnt aware of that my bad

yeah thats because the sr20 model is still made the ecr33 and er34 model are no longer made i mean there are still thousands of units in circulation, just no new units

given the other options and cost you may find the pfc still the best and cheapest overall. im talking buying price and tuning costs

how do you find this shit? let alone find the time to edit it all haha

yeah they finally released it, actually useful data for once pitty it needs to much damn turbine speed to get anything useful from it whats a realistic rpm we are talking to get a 0.70 a/r housing fast enough to make the compressor flow 1.5 bar. is there a way to mathematically work this out? given that we know required turbine speed and pressure ratio ?

do a search for hiflow and bassjunky he had a similar problem with his gcg hiflow he had to bend the actuator rod to make it work not sure on the exact details

gate stuck open or leaking gate (leaking out backpressure) is it mega laggy? (it should be if the gate is stuck open)