paulr33

good ol myspace eh the place for weenies and the like

if you want a cheap solution go the safc route, most people do this and later change to the PFC further down the track. the safc is cost effective and the tuning is usually cheaper as well.

last time i spoke with zac about the PFC availability he said it was fine and no problems with finding them, best to ask him. a 200rwkw well tuned r33 with PFC will run very nicely and have some good average power. the response and engine pickup is also much better as you are to tune the low load ign areas significantly. im about 12deg more advanced timing below 3 grand, so the car feels amazing to drive. powerfc & alsd works fine, its just an official wiring change to make it work, its under the tutorial section, search for "active-lsd" in their and you will find it, its also in the PFC Faq

once it picks up enough knocking to activate the low octane map mode it drops to the lower octane map. basically it see's knocking and assumes youve put in penis fuel (95ron or lower) so it drops to the low map. the low map is really retarded timing, so it would negate any knocking you were seeing. the timing would be really really retardard, the car will work, it will just be boggy and sluggish i would expect i am unsure if r&r is a map change (i dont think it is) once the ramp is triggered it activates r&r which is probably a quick negative adjust to timing to the whole map and richen up by a precentage on the inj map both i think are temproary (say 4 seconds of it) and then it backs off, well it could be 4 seconds or it may until the afm signal drops again

stock ecu will not let you know of knocking, it will just carry on in the background and drop to the low octane map when it picks up enough knocking.

dig up from 2002, useful

well no water would be the drought no power would be a natural disaster and the companies underestimating load / failing to keep up with demand is it really such a big deal ?

if it was the injectors it would just lean out and be an uncontrollable lean it sounds like he is having problems making power, check the cat try and drop the dump pipe and leave the exhaust open mouthed. see what power comes out

yeah as my posted stated, its usually when they go beyond the compressors effiency that someone "kills an engine". you would never hear of somoene killing an engine on 7psi. its usually they make a certain figure and then keep trying more boost in the hope to make power, more boost = more heat, more heat = go bang. the output from the hiflow probably looks like this; 7psi = 100 units of air 14psi = 250 units of air 15psi = 265 units of air 16psi = 272 uinits of air 17psi = 280 units of air so as more pressure goes up, the compressor goes faster and faster and goes out of its effiency zone or "island" on the compressor map. the faster it spins, more it moves out of the zone and starts dialing in heat, heat heat heat and heat.

you can be summonsed to the epa for any reason for none at all if they wish, they could summon your mums stock vp commodore to the epa if they want, high unlikely but they can.

13psi on a gt40 is exactly that, just a pressure rating, it means nothing. the compressor map will tell you how much airflow it will dial into the engine. again 1.3bar boost means nothing, 1.3bar on a gt3037 means nothing, look at the compresor map and find out how much airflow it will make. run 4psi if you like or 4.2bar whatever you want, but boost shouldnt decide what power you make the compressor map should dictate that for you. you may find "high boost" levels a problem if the compressor is out of effiency. what happens is the compressor runs too fast and for every psi extra it just dials in more and more heat instead of useful air. so for every psi extra over 1 bar say on XYZ turbocharger it adds in 15% more heat for each psi (bad example but still valid), more heat = more detonation likely. boost doesnt kill an engine, heat and tuning will however. the more boost you run, the more likely you are to dial in heat, which is more likely to induce detonation. ie: 5psi on a gt30 is better than 24 psi on a gt28 but thats purely a comparison based on pressure and heat. the gt30 combo will lag much more, and vice versa

twin gt-ss for 300awkw

a good indication of how good an ecu is the number of people who use it and documentation etc out there. if you cant find much on the emanage, chances are not many people use it. look at the pfc faq (in my sig) should give you an indication on the number of people that use the powerfc, and for good reasons too. lots of documentation on the motec, for good reasons too etc, if its good people will have documentation, howto's, guides etc

2nd hand PFCs are like $800 via slidewize imports he is a trader on the forums, speak to him he should be able to get rb25 as well tune should be $500 ish or more like $400, shop around, plently of PFC tuners theres no need to emphasise on multiple maps, you just tune the ecu the best and safest settings your car / engine can deal with. theres no need for a normal spec tune and a "race" spec tune. just tune with whats safe and be done with it. fuel economy will come from how you drive it and your foot on the pedal

were you expecting to see a difference?

down the end of king st, towards north melbourne / dryburgh st front left bar corner respary (car park scrape) rear right wheel arch pushed in (car park scrape) door handle touch up (paint coming off) $800 total

my car is at flagstaff repairs on king st in the city for a few quick touch ups, good pricing too

with a - sign in front of it ?

the sms stuff has been fixed, btw one of the modems was intermittently faulty

oh we could certainly promote that but as soon as you invite the media in they will most likely (not 100%, but most likely) write up badly and twist it around an so forth. the sticker means nothing, it just means you brought it or are a paid member. it doesnt mean you are a good, safe or sensible driver. i know plently of paid members who are stupidheads on the road from time to time with sau stickers. we've even seen it on our own cruises before. overall we are pretty good in the public eyes and have never had any big incidents and we are known as a friendly and fun club and not a "calais turbo burnout / boost" club either.

good spot dave

i think to be honest, its a complete waste of time they wont care nor would they know who sau are and even if they did, i can assure you there are members in our club who frequently would participate in what one would call "hooing", be it a quick take off at the lights, speeding, fast lane changing etc. we all do it. heck ive lost my licence for runing out of points. we (the club and commitee) cant be expected to police the members afterall we arent even around u guys that much so that rules that out as well i think sau should just stay out of it completely and just regulary remind our members to behave

idle should be near -500mmgh, so the stock one is correct your electronic one is incorrect where is the signal for the elctornic unit coming from? check the tubing, check for blockages, leaks etc

the powerfc has a boost control kit, its on www.nengun.com using an afm is a good thing, using a map sensor is not the emanage is a piggyback and always will be, so i dont see how it would be better than a replacement stand alone

the right, there are a few of us who have been lucky and havent been pulled over or had random checks, fines, infringements etc, but i bet every one of you has at least 1 illegal modifiicaiton, has broken the law several times, and been speending in your skyline, wrx, supra, evo, etc etc. its just you haven't been caught yet