WazR32GTSt

don't you have a GTS with a 2.0L NA? io don't think gap is going to be an issue if that is the case...

what about getting the stoker ported and a new butterfly made up? Waz.

well you can drop the thoughts of getting a GT-T when the GTR is also in the picture if it were me: i would get teh R33GTR Vspec mainly because it is newer and if you are spendingf sop much money on a car then make it an immac one and kms aren't the only measure of the 'newness' of the car. year of build can determine trim quality, paint quality, quality of hoses and other plastic pieces in the engine bay as much as i prefer the R32 shape over the R33 (adn the R34 over them both) i would have to say R33 GTR Vspec... good luck with the decision! Waz.

define 'better'... i was of the understanding that coppers gave the best spark with their only downside that they last only 10,000kms in a turbocharged engine...

i would say hea range of 6 and i personally use coppers (BCPR6ES) rather than platinums which you have given the part number for... as for fuel filter, its in between: - the intake plenum runners 5 and 6 (attached to the side of the engine bay where the suspension is.) - the brake master cylinder alternatively you can find the injectors, follow them to the fuel rail, and at teh end of the fuel rail will be some hoses that are wrapped in hose that has holes in it (means fuel hoses inside) follow these hoses and oen of them will run into the fuel filter! good luck! Waz.

dunno have heard that you can get pinging but have not had any first-hand experience so not 100% sure i have a theory that if you gap it too small then you will begin to lose some power but as i said jsut atheory INASNT - wow didn't realise the fuel filter was so cheap! wil get onto that myself! cheers, Waz.

geez everyone wants a FREE copy when it costs for CDs and paostage and everything i only offered it because i reccommended earlier that he should get a manual for a question he was asking will have to start charging if everyone wants a CD of the manual mark - i'll give you a copy if i come over to look at those springs of yours chris32 - get one off joel! cheers, Warren.

if you did a search then you would realise that you can use: NGK coppers part number BCPR6ES these are gapped to 0.8mm from the packet otherwise BCPR6ES-11 are gapped to 1.1mm cheers, Waz.

the one for the R32gtst is more like $30-35 so are they different or am i getting ripped off?!?

g'day mark, i have the original stereo out of an R32 GTSt but the cassette deck doesn't seem to work. dunno if its the same as GTS-X one... if you are just putting it in to sell the car or something then it may be perfect for you! make me an offer and its yours! cheers, Warren.

got any pics? if so can you send one to [email protected] i'll take it for $50 (including postage to melbourne which would be lass than $2 for somethign that small!) assuming its the key i think it is... PM me or email me asap... cheers, Warren.

hey adam, if you're running stock boost then i would stick with the 1.1mm gap for better combustion from what i understand, 0.8mm gaps are for when the boost is turned up over stock levels the way i see it if small gaps did nothing at all bad then all plugs would be gapped down to 0.5mm or so. the smaller the gap eventually must do something (i have heard that the larger the gap the better the fuel ignites and it combusts more efficiently or something). moral of the story (in my opinion): run as big a gap as your engine will allow without missing cheers, Warren.

you in vic? you can have it for free on CD if you want to pick it up from my house in Taylors Lakes...

don't get it mate... if its giving this problem at a test drive, imagine what other problems it will give you once you take it home! there are plenty of skylines around for sale, take a few for a drive and stay away from dealerships! dodgy as all shit... good luck! Waz.

niiiiiiiice... :whackit:

if you are going to re-oil your fitler then you might also want to get some carby cleaner (i use brake cleaner) to clean your AFM. after you oil the filter some will travel through and onto the wire in the AFM so a few days after service it wouldn't hurt to give it a spray... cheers, Waz.

just because its more expensive doesn't mean its any better you show me conclusive testing results saying that the filter twice the price is better and i will use it...

BCPR6ES

i get ALL my stuff from supercheap... filter: $4 (valvoline one is $8 but there's another brand that's got a black and white box and theirs is $4. its just an oil filter and it gets changed every 5000kms so who cares that its not a brand?) oil: penrite 10w50 for $40 plugs: BCPR6ES NGK copper (don't waste your money on platinums!) $3 each cheers, Warren.

if you want to get this done at a mechanic PM me as my mechanic (from the highpoint area) did mine no probs so hs done a skyline auto before. i can give you his details. as for your question: when mine was done, the sump was dropped to dran the oil. the old gasket was stuck like you wouldn't believe so had to be scraped off, and the filter and gasket replaced. Don't know what oil he used but he gets it in barrells. He used mbil 1 for enging oil so i assume he has a contract with mobil for gearbox oil also... good luck! Warren. Ps you still live near taylors lakes? i haven't seen your car around for a while... (white R34 with no spoiler right?)

i'm hoping to head down there this friday with a mate of mine have nver been before but want to give my car a run one day so i figure i should check it out before i actually turn up wanting to have a go anyone else going?

so that makes 2 people (excluding sydneykid because he's a god not a person) which have done the conversion with R33 GTR cams into their rb20... do you have any comments based on this lukevl? do you have a technical explanation for how it could have worked seeing as it obviously can be done... Waz.

i have learnt to deal with the starting issue as its a part of everyday life if you find out what it is then nominate yourself for a nobel prize! Waz.

if its the same as an rb20 then its on the plenum near runner for cly #6 (called 'aac valve') small square thing with a cylindrical thing attached. There should be a maroon plug going into it remove the maroon plug unscrew / tighten screw replace maroon plug idle changed! just for the record (not sure if htis will help at all...): i had htis issue where one day my car just started jumping idle from 500rpm to 2000rpm then stalled. Happened about 2 or 3 times on the same day. When i got home, i got out the trusty old 'brake caliper cleaner' and cleaned the afm, took off the aac and gave it a clean, took off the O2 sensor and gave that a spray to remove any deposits on the probe, and reset the ECU have never seen the weird idle problem again... Cheers, Waz.

huh? wtf are you doing? you don't need to take anything apart, just pull the afm off the car and spray through the mesh and onto the wire that hangs into the pipe. Waz.