WazR32GTSt

yes it has torque settings wiring bussh? if you mean wiring diagrams then yes also its the full workshop manual PM me if you want it Matt....

ha ha how old are you then?

see my signature below if anyone wants a copy for $10...

see my signature below...

PVC pipe that's a good idea actually... hmmm maybe i should get some mesh (eg flyscreen door mesh) and put it over the funnel to stop moths and small birds getting in?

yeah post pics up of the R33 CAI too as it seems to be a different setup...

no clamps could quite easily mean a leak even at idle if you don't have any clamps (which you can get from bunnings by the way) then use cable-ties just to test it out. you might be surprised that although a hose seems to be securely on, even without a clamp, it probably will still be leaking. cheers, Waz.

on the R32, the afm is attached to the top section of the airbox, thus this flows air in front of the airfilter to be sucked through and into the AFM...

quite easy mate most people who get defected have exhausts greater than 3" in diameter with no cats and no resonators. And it was probably a jap-exhaust with stuffed baffling in the muffler also... this equals LOUD i got a custom 3" exhaust made with brand new cannon muffler and a resonator and its very quiet i'm sure would pass epa. as for other EPA-related items, well don't get an aftermarket blow-off valve (no need anyway) and don't get a pod filter unless you want hassles. good luck, Waz.

Thought I would show off my new cold air intake (CAI) setup for those who are running a stock airbox on their skyline and want that little extra air Test car: R32GTSt Items needed and costs: - 50-60mm pipe approx 50cm long (clark rubber, $7-8) - cable ties x 20 (supercheap, $3) - funnel (supercheap, $4) - drill - small saw - ratchet, screwdriver Firstly, I removed the front bar. In order to do so, you have to remove the indicators (one screw each) and unplug them to expose a screw underneath holding the front bar in place. There is another screw holding the front bar under the wheel arch on either side. These need to be removed. There are also plastic shitty screws all over the place (can’t remember where they all are but easy to find). Once all screws removed the front bar simply slides off… Now I have exposed my lovely FMIC (see pic 1) Oooh look at that nice big auto trannie cooler also (see pic 2) Sorry about that… Now I removed the airbox which is a simple process. Once the top section is unclipped and filter removed, there are 4 screws that need to be removed using a ratchet. 2 inside, and 2 outside. After this the stocker simply lifts out easy. You can see in pic 3 (sorry it’s a bit blurry!) that I have orientated the pipe into the bottom side section of the airbox. To do this, I lined the pipe up with the side of the airbox and traced its diameter with a pencil. Then using an old (small) drill I drilled in and cut out a circle just bigger than the size of my pipe. While I was there, I drilled 4 holes around where the pipe was to go. Next, I secured one end of the pipe to the airbox. I drilled 4 holes corresponding to the 4 holes previously drilled in the airbox and went nuts with the cable ties. My CAI pipe is now complete at one end! Now I have a FMIC with custom piping which means there is a hole where the stock pipes used to go almost directly under the side of the airbox. This made it easy to route any pipes as there’s a nice big hole there If you have the stocker then you will have to find another way of getting your pipe to the front of the car and that’s beyond my help, sorry. I now fed the pipe through the hole in the engine bay so that the bottom of the airbox was now back in its original position. Airbox can be secured back in place with the original screws. While is was at it I gave the AFM a quick spray of ‘brake cleaner’ which dries with no residue and gives it a nice clean. OK so now what we have is the stock airbox in place but with a pipe secured to one side and coming out of the engine bay and hanging at the front of the car. Next step is to attach a funnel to the end to ‘catch’ as much ram air as possible Using a saw, I cut the end of the funnel off to just leave the funnel itself. To attach this to the other end of the pipe, I drilled 4 holes in the funnel and 4 holes in the pipe and went nuts with the cable ties again. Now all that’s left is to attach the CAI pipe somewhere so it doesn’t flop around at high speeds. I used cable ties to secure one side to the intercooler pipes running nearby (see pic 4). Presto, picture 4 shows the finished product (very dark – sorry) and you can see the funnel on the end attached to the CAI pipe which then runs up and into the stock airbox to feed it crisp, cold air. Now just re-attach your front bar and you’re done! Total cost = approx $15 Best part is with the stock airbox its legal to have a FMIC yet the airflow I still have is adequate for my needs Well let me know if anyone else tries this or any feedback on whether they think this turned out good or not. Cheers, Waz.

i think 7psi should be stock but don't quote me on that because i don't have an R33 and the boost on R32 and R33 is different and yes 10psi should still make a nice difference...

O2 sensor is directly behind the back of the turbo sitting into the dump pipe my money would be on a loose hose also as it does sound exactly like a vaccum leak...

well for a start, you DO have an intercooler... the first issue is that at 12psi there is a flow restriction in the stock intercooler. so if you use the stock intercooler and your boost gauge reads 12psi then in actual fact you are probably making around 14psi with 2psi being lost across the stock cooler. with a FMIC there is usually negligable pressure loss and 12psi at the boost gauge probably also means 12psi from teh turbo outlet. the second issue is that upping the boost on an intercooler of relatively small surface area will result in minimal cooling of the compressed air and consequently higher intake temps. this may lead to detonation. so... my advide would be to run 10psi on the stocker and wait for a FMIC before you up it any higher. but others will probably tell you otherwise so follow your instincts. cheers, Waz.

if you passed year 10 and can read then you will see that i am going out for dinner for her birthday not going to a party you obviously don't have a girlfriend or any form of commitment in your life, so go stand by your 'sick' POS car and relieve yourself :whackit:

i would go for a stock airbox for: can still run a high-flow panel filter can route a CIA from the front bar so the airflow is still very high looks stock can legally have a FMIC against: induction noise reduced go the stock airbox with a high-flow. i know i did. cheers, Waz.

this thread jumps around so much its giving me a headache... i won't be able to make it as its my girlfriends mums birthday and we are going out for dinner will definately be down there this side of christmas so will have to organise another day as well later Warren.

wow 2 very opposing opinions: something small like a exhaust leak something MAJOR like a big end bearing your local tuner will know exactly what the problem is so take it there...

hmmmm 137kW sounds a bit low with an rb25 turbo doesn't it? maybe the misfire is affecting your power or there is another problem?

hmmmm my calder-park cherry needs a-poppin too! maybe shall consult my social manager (g/f)

1. no smoking 2. no changing the climate control settings / music without asking (except girlfriend) 3. feet on ground at all times (not on seat and especially NOT ON DASH) 4. no sex 5. never touch my horn... ever eating and drinking (including alchol) are allowed, drive-through is encouraged. that is all. Waz.

please read the above it would have saved you the embarrassment of failing a test but you learnt the hard way as Hours said, you failed for a reason - you aren't up to the standard. don't use excuses... go get some lessons Waz.

have you considered buying that R31 then dropping in the RB30ET from the VLturbo? will provide PLENTY of power for you (probably more than an rb20det from the R32) even though its single cam it still has the extra displacement it must be a straight fit as its the same engine and all the wiring/ECU is probably the same or very similar...

sorry to hear mate. if i catch 'em i'll piss on 'em for you... when i grow up, i am going to hire a security guard just for my car

i find the following things very odd: - i know you think you can drive, but only 1 lession before the test??? i had 4 lessions and that was for an auto lisence not because i needed them for skill but i learnt so much from the instructor re safety, learning the roads, how to 3-point turn/parallel park properly by their rules etc... the fact that you are asking SAU how to change gears before a turn/roundabout means you are in serious trouble at the minute - i can't believe you are/were even considering doing the test in your car :confused: come on mate... if you ask me i would say postpone the test for 2 weeks (what's 2 weeks in the context of a lifetime of driving) go get some lessions and tee-up the car you are going to use. learn from your lessions, don't show off to the instructor. they are trained to teach you. Waz.

ok so i am a big fan of the DIY concept. why pay $500 when you can whip something up yourself? so i have this idea... the concept of this forum is to bring these ideas together. and thankfully there are people here who can tell me to put these ideas back into my head and sit on them as they know what they are talking about... so i have an R32gtst with 3" turbo-back, FMIC, rb26 cams, filter, 12-13psi, and remapped ECU running that boost i keep thinking runnng lean might just be around the corner with the stock fuel pump so i though of this: is is possible to buy some sort of inline 'tap' ($2) from an irrigation supplies shop (eg kmart garden) and chuck this into the fuel return line. then slightly close the tap so that only 70% of the max flow rate can get back to the fuel tank? from what i understand this should increase the pressure slightly in the intake line thus helping to prevent leaning out...? would this work? other repercussions? (ie starvation at the fuel pump? somehting else?) just an idea... cheers, Warren.