WazR32GTSt

does anyone have any idea why i might be running so rich even though it has been chipped which is suppost to lean out the mixtures? maybe its because of the missfire??

AFR of 13 is very lean... and the rb25 turbo would be helping you there also so that does sound about right... what torque were you making?

chip was reccommended to me by 'deorbit' from these forums he had it in his car making 160rwkw with similar mods, and i got the same chip for $200 from a place down here in melb maybe he can shed some more light on its mapping?

i think he is talking about the width of the tyre, not diameter

yeah i know... although it has been 'high flowed' by my dad and i (if you know what i mean)

oh, and what do you think this set-up would run down the quarter?

Had my car on the dyno the other day to check the AFRs and optimise my setup before I take it to calder Dyno was done at MI automotive in Bulleen by Arthur Hatziallis who knows his stuff and has great experience with dyno’s and is a tuning agent for unichip and microtech. My current mods: - 3” dump/front - 3” cat-back - 2.5” cat - high-flow filter in stock airbox with CAI - FMIC with custom piping - rb26 cams - chipped ECU (don’t know exactly what, if anything, has been changed) - bleed valve Car particulars: - R32 GTSt - rb20det with 125,000kms - stock automatic 4sp gearbox (with transmission cooler) The initial dyno run was done with my CAS set right to retard as this was the only way for it not to ping! car seemed to run ok like this although power was down. The reason for this (after inspection) was because my timing belt was out by one tooth on the exhaust side! The result i initially got is shown in the below dyno graph with a max of 115.8kW@wheels on 10.5psi I had the timing belt fixed and back on the dyno to fix up the timing, and add some more boost. With the timing set to around 15deg and boost to 12psi, i made a max of 131.6kW@wheels (interestingly made no more power at 14psi than at 12psi). This is shown in the below graph also. Torque seems to be ok at approx 255nm The AFRs show that it is running rich, but at least the AFRs are constant and the torque curve is relatively flat Car also has a slight miss at idle but I don’t think that has affected the dyno curve at all All runs done in 2nd gear (auto, remember) So to my questions… Now, I have done some searching of the archives and there is absolutely no info on R32 automatic dyno figures. So... is 132kW@wheels and OK figure given its an auto? My tuner said it would be closer to 155kW if it were a manual based on the figure, the results he has seen from manual-equipped cars with similar mods, and a calculation the computer did Sydneykid posted in a thread that a stock auto R33GTS25T makes approx 110kW@wheels so that lead me to think that I am doing pretty well. Also, the dyno parameters down the bottom show an intake temp of 14deg which does not seem likely, would this have affected the runs by much? Most dyno graphs I see have intake temps of around 30-40deg… Any comments are greatly appreciated. Please post your figures if you have an AUTO, particularly R32’s… Cheers, Warren.

nice work...

IT:40 intake temp 40degC?? sounds unusually high to me. when my car was on the dyno the IT was 14degC from what i understand, shootout mode adjusts your figure if its deemed 'hot' so your real figure may be lower than what you are displaying... (also, you should block out your number plate before you post something on the internet)

I got my cat-back custom made at: Blinky's Brake and Exhaust South Gippsland highway Dandenong (check www.yellowpages.com.au for phone number) guy's name is stuart cost me $540... 3" mandrel bent in mild steel large resonator (larger than he usually uses as i wanted it to be quiet - this made it cost more) stainless steel canon muffler coming out on an angle he actually made the exhaust sit higher than stock so its great if you want to lower your car and doesn't hang rediculously low like some aftermarket items cheers, Warren.

very nice car mate don't worrk about it being an auto it ain't that bad, in fact i would argue that its life may have been easier in the past as an auto driver is less likely to hold it above 5000rpm for long and do silly things like drift/burnout etc.

get your mechanic to check your timing belt if its one tooth out on either the exhaust or intake side then you get all sorts of rough idle issues... takes 5 seconds they just take the timing cover off and line it up! cheers, Waz

just filter out the wankers and there are plenty of nice cars around... welcome

i voted for the old system alternatively you could modify the old system to reflect how you want the changes to act without doing a complete re-do of hte for sale section oh, and have you considered banning the use of 'bump'?? it really serves no purpose and it gets annoying when someone 'bumps' 3 times a day untill their item is sold... cheers, Warren.

coolers with outlets on different sides are much more common and are usually made as 'universal' coolers that can be adapted to any turbocharged car (unless you buy a kit) that being said there are many more like this around and thus they go for cheaper... if i could afford a cooler like the one you mentioned then i would have definately gone for it!

ooooooooooh who's our guest speaker this week??

its a straight 6, not a V6 by the way...

my dad and i snapped a bolt going into the back off the turbo be VERY careful especially when using a ratchet...

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah well it matches the paint so who cares? (anyone got nissan FAST so i can check my build date?)

i would do the following: - get a 'before' dyno test to see what power you are making and your car's general helthj - get a 3" dump/front in one off BATMBL - get a bleed valve and up the boost to about 10psi then later on down the track go the FMIC

hmmm... its possible that your timing belt is one tooth out, meaning you have to retard the CAS to show a correct timing reading after all it should be runnng smooth at 15deg BTDC

15? hahahahahahahahahaha you've got a very big mouth for a very little kid that's going to get you in trouble some day...

my 92 model has blue dials i'm thinking the dial colour was dependent on the car colour as my car is dark blue to match the dials... most dials are grey as most cars are grey/black

yep

i don't think the auto's are as bad as people make out...