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WazR32GTSt

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Everything posted by WazR32GTSt

  1. if you want to go the custom route, them i'm getting my cat-back exhaust done this week for $530 in melb. specs: 3" mandrel bent mild steel with stainless cannon muffler includes x-large resonator fully fitted and it actually sits higher than stock (so you can lower the car still) would be cheaper with no resonator (want it louder, hey? ) or with a smaller resonator but add 3.5" and it may be back up to the 500 mark... PM me if you are interested in the name of the place (its in dandenong), or else i'm getting it done this thurs (19/8) and you can check it out on the next meetup after that... Waz.
  2. well some people have their intercoolers acid-dipped, so i would suggest you could try some allow-wheel cleaner that is acid-based, spray on, hose off, and you are laughing!
  3. well said. the general talk on these forums is that type M generally has: - 4 pot front and 2 pot rear brakes - rear wiper - different steering wheel (GTR-style) - LSD but almost everything was an option in japan so who knows?? as far as i am concerned as long as the car has 4-pot front and 2-pot rears then i don't car about the rest as that's the real advantage of the type M R32gtst, if it at all exists as Roy suggests...
  4. if everyone pulled their finger out of their arse and tried it then more people will be able to tell you of the results. do it, try it, tell us how you go. i'm sick of the armchair tuners not having a real go. so far 2 people tried it at home and failed. I tried it at the mechanics and it worked fine. at least Roy and BBenny had a go and i'm sure they will get it working eventually as they are actually doing it rather than just talking about it...
  5. taken from workshop manual: cylinder headbolts tightened in two step method: - tighten to 3 kg-m - tighten to 10 kg-m - loosten completely to 0 kg-m - tighten to 3 - 3.5 kg-m - turn bolts 80-90deg clockwise when angle wrench is used (never approximate tightening angle visually) - tighten to 10 kg-m then torque wrench is used cam caps same as cam bracket bolts? anyway... tighten cam bracket bolts 540deg (1.5 turns) gradually in several stages tightening torque: 0.92 - 1.2 kg-m cam pulley to camshaft knock pim torque: 1.4 - 1.9 kg-m hope this helps... Waz.
  6. skylinesteve PM'd me saying he had my printout so i'm assuming he contacted everyone? ...not that i want mine anyway
  7. lets think about this, right... its just a trans cooler. an HKS logo isn't going change the way the cooler dissipates heat. it still functions to cool the heat even though its cheap... its not like we are talkign about pressure or flow issues like in an intercooler... and all trans coolers increase the oil capacity of the trannie anyway which is a good thing in itself the only reason i would get a more expensive one is to include a thermostat (which mine doesn't have) to let it reach operating temp that little bit quicker up to you anyway let us know how you go Waz.
  8. a MASSIVE thankyou to the person who put this up! i downloaded it from that one with the 20downloads on it if anyone wants i can bring it on CD to the SAU-victoria meeting next tuesday...
  9. first i would get a transmission cooler if i were you (keep the auto cool) $80 then i would get a front/dump pipe from BABMBL (check the business for sale section) $240 then i would buy a second-hand FMIC ($500) and get the piping custom made (PM me i got mine done for $250) then i would agree with the above in that sell your SAFC and RSM and get a better management system. i'm thinking of going to unichip when i get the money as not too many systems work well with the auto Waz.
  10. i bought my transmission cooler from supercheap for $80 i think it was 'davies craig' they had biger ones and smaller ones but this was rated for 6cyl cars...
  11. this is a bargain people! most shops make piping for $500-700!
  12. i have what your after and i'm in taylors lakes (melbourne) - standard pipes from an R32GTSt PM me... they're yours for a reasonable offer... Waz.
  13. mate it all comes down to personal preference... i like the look of he r32 and the better fuel economy it provides (thanks to reduced capacity and weight). i feel its the best compromise you can buy between power, reliability, and fuel economy. but as stated, r33's are newer and thus generally in better condition than some r32's Waz.
  14. just to add to the 'don't blame the coils' discussion, my random miss ended up being my timing MASSIVELY retarded so check your timing also...
  15. i will come down this time, although i'm making a big sacrifice - after all it is tuesday and The OC is on TV tuesdays...
  16. i'll cry if the next GTR turns out anything like that
  17. do a search in the vic section this question gets asked twice a week...
  18. hmmm considering still... will get back to you how old are the springs? what brand are they?
  19. this may help you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35129
  20. what about a aus-delivered R31 GTS non-turbo (keep your dad happy) but from memory they are an rb30e but mildly tuned for some fun and look neat... otherwise i would say an R33GTS is good, but eventually you will itch for a turbo and its not cost-effective to convert an NA to a turbo... good luck! Waz
  21. taken from www.aus300zx.com: http://www.neuralmotion.com/forum/index.cf...=229733&forum=2 ha ha ha ha some people just don't deserve to drive skylines... cheers, Waz.
  22. turn your stereo up and the noise will go away nah seriously, if the noise wasn't there before you fiddled with the system, then you have done something to it. it may not affect it at all, so don't worry too much. if it were me, i would open up the tank again and repeat whatever you did the first time but TAKE EXTRA CARE to put it all back exactly as it looks like it should go. if the noise is STILL there..... use the "stereo interference" method
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