WazR32GTSt

i recently got new 18" tyres.. on the front think i paid $180 each for 225/40/18 they were nankang ns-2 hope that helps

i have nothing to say about the actual business, but when i was looking for a car about 3 years ago, coming from out near the melbourne airport to see a car he had, he neglected to tell me that his price didn't include compliance on the phone you can imagine how annoyed i was when i had just driven 1.5hrs for nothing... doesn't say much for customer service

hey mate, i use mercury motorsport (www.mercurymotorsport.com.au) they provide good quality work and good customer service. i wouldn't say the cheapest prices.. about $77 and hour, but they take their time and do it properly plus, they can re-tune the stock r32 ecu now! so you're laughing... they are in newmarket, about 5mins north of the city

surely this is nonsense.. just a quick way to damage your car in the search for a cheap modification mods... i vote for closing this thread

intake cam one tooth out? that's what i'd be putting my money on...

those kind of emmissions won't cause lung cancer... not in short-term exposure anyway lung disease, yes (eg lung fibrosis) you'd have to be breathing in funes everyday for years to be at risk there honestly, i did this to my car before i got a high-flow cat and i noticed no increase in exhaust note, and no difference in power at all! so it begs the question, why bother?

mad082 - there's no 2-stage setup on an rb20 mate...

or maybe consider getting the stock manifold extrude honed...

my turbotech boost controller holds 14psi all day long and cost me $28.. the boost doesn't spike at all its graph is smooth on the dyno

there's no factory boost controller mate... what mods do you have? i'd say your problem is either - you have no mods and so upping the boost against a restrictive exhaust is doing nothing - your boost controller is crappy and spikes then doesn't hold boost to the redline i'd say its the boost controller also, check to make sure you have it on the right way (there should be an arrow) good luck, Warren

thanks for the pic mate.. so its a vaccum hose? how long is it? might go hunting and replace some hoses that are on their last legs, as i have a funny idle also... and trouble starting

so sorry to hear mate... your life is worth living, think of all the good things in life, all your family and friends... materil possessions hurt us when lost, but in time all will return to normal hope someone finds it..

how'd you go with that picture mate?

a high-flow turbo is just going to increase lag.. i would think that although you are chasing peak power, if its low-down torque you want then is this really the best option? obviously things like lighten the car, and increase power are going to help, but if you are chasing specific things that are going to relate to low-down torque, maybe consider - cam gears - lightened flywheel + pulleys - remove clutch fan and replace with thermo fan(s) - responsive turbo - aftermarket ECU: plenty of low-down timing and good AFRs - if you are planning on running low boost, maybe consider stock intercooler for reduced piping? or a small FMIC rather than a huge core? i don't know, just some ideas... its obvious to say "just put on an exhaust and wind up the boost" but we already know that will make more power. let's help him get his low down torque.. i know personally (having an rb20) how a lack of low-down torque can kill the fun!

where do you put the shopping?

given the fact that it went into a workshop ifne, i would say the problems are most likely - air leak somewhere - dirty or faulty AFM if i were you i would do the following - check that the AFM is plugged in properly - take off the pod and spray some contact cleaner / brake cleaner into the AFM to give it a clean - check all hoses near that area and tighten them all up (including bov return hose) if you still have a problem than maybe get a spray bottle and put heaps of dishwashing liquid in it with some water and spray it on the hoses and look for bubbles (sign of an air leak) if that's still no go, then think of things that may have just gone wrong as a coincidence - fuel filter dirty / blocked? - AAC valve needs a clean? best of luck, Warren

oh, and when you remove your bulbs to find that they are H3C type, just remember that H3 globes fit also, you just need to modify the wiring that takes less than 5mins with a soldering iron (H3 comes in a MUCH wider variety than H3C). do a search for more info or PM me and i'll help you out with a summary of what to do cheers, Warren

agree with fixxxer.. don't go 100W bulbs just get 55w bulbs that are rated higher i personally got "narva - arctic blue" bulbs for like $40 from repco and they made the light whiter and brighter

what about the bilstein option that SK is running in his group buy? from what he says, they are more suited to the street.. i think the biggest problem with adjustable coilover type setups is that they ride too firm for the terrible quality streets that local governments serve us up

best bet is to jump onto www.jsutjap.com and check out the cheap buy effective upgrades they have there.. you can pick up a whole turbo-back exhaust and FMIC kit for about 1300 or so..

you can get brand new mats form www.accessoriesonline.com.au for $102 delivered come with embroided nissan logo direct fit to the skyline that's where i got mine

is it the pipe with the arrow, or another pipe in that pic? .. just a pic i found doing a quick search on SAU, sorry if its someone's car in particular!

which "pipe" can you put up a pic of an engine bay and point to it? cheers, Warren PS did it also help with the starting issue?

its always goign to take a second or so to change gears on full throttle changes.. that's the way the nissan gearbox is if you want to change that, then a shift kit is a great investment

its not noticable at all.. i can tell you this 100% from experience as i have seen it everyday on my car that's for the original GTR front bumper, that is