WazR32GTSt

calm down mate everyone is offering advice the best they can based on the information they are given maybe you should take it back to the tuner for clarification? or to another tuner for their advice?

how do you know your fuel pump is failing? have you had it on a dyno and watched the AFRs lean out? or is this another armchair diagnosis?

if you read their website, they can't do R33 ECUs at the moment... www.mercurymotorsport.com.au

easy with some custom piping that's a great way of getting a FMIC with the stock piping i think personally

nitrous or N2O doesn't replace the fuel, it replaces the air as in its a richer source of oxygen (or at least i thought so) so in that case, you are getting more oxygen from a bottle in the car, making the oxygen delivery to the combustion process "unnatural"

the way i suggested is exactly the same as shown in the pic from Nath32 just the can in a different location in the engine bay i got mine from jsutjap its a greddy copy one. like $80 delivered and can be opened from each end and has a separate drain hole...

you can join SAU-victoria for $50 and get a CAMS lisence through them.. see the vic section for that

well done anna what was the reason for an engine change?

oil temp or coolant temp? on our 86 corvette, oil and coolant temps get well over 100deg without any hassles. hell the fan doesn't even come on until the coolant reaches 110deg!

the advantage is that you ratins knock adjustment, cold start, etc. if you go back to the same place then they can keep your tune on their computer, and when adding a mod to the car they simply change a few parameters and burn a new chip.. the only difference to the powerFC is that you have to re-install a new chip each time. other then that there's no difference. car is still tuned on teh dyno with a computer its not a plug ang play option like some of the "chips" out there... oh, and there's no initial outlay like the $1000+ you pay for powerFC and hand controller

answer 1 - the inlets/outlets are the same on the catch can, just make sure you baffle it with something eg kitchen scourers in a stocking answer 2 - the way you have it should work ok. i have it slightly differently.. see the image i attached, but with the green lines with this way.. at idle (no positive crankcase pressure): the vapours are still going into the plenum. there shouldn't be any oil at idle anyway on boost (positive crankcase pressure): vapours go through the catch can and catch any oil before it goes into the intake has worked 100% fine for me and it much easier to plumb than what you have descsribed

no intercooler pipes? so its just the throttle body open to the air? man chuck some pipes onto it and see if that makes a difference.. connect it all up as if it were ready to drive

fibreglass is tempting because it comes in many styles and is cheap but saying that, i would never get anything again other than the stock polyurethane plastic...

coils?

yes, stock suspension yes, FMIC

with 155rwkw from an rb20 i ran a 14.7 @ 98mph in my r32 auto.. that with a shitty takeoff and 2.5sec 60'! (apparently this ET is good for a high 13) but interestingly i went a different route to you to help with times.. spending less than for a manual conversion, i upgraded to a high-stall and shift kit from MV automatics.. this gives me 4-5psi when stalling on the line and the thing takes off like a rocket! now that i have 170rwkw and an ECU tune to come, i hope to test out the new auto on the strip and see how she goes

how is the just jap alloy radiator? good quality? ps nice power curve there.. also, shouldn't the power run be done in shoot_6f not shoot_6...?

its not any different you don't get a free powerFC tune do you? its the same, except that with the Dr Drift tune there's no initial outlay for the ECU unlike with a powerFC...

unless there's something wrong with your engine causign excessive blowby, then a catch can't won't do much anyway i'd say that if you are going in for a powerFC tune, then this is the perfect time to chuck on a cam gear and get it all tuned up at once... put the catch can down on the "to do" list for a later time...

have a check at the bottom on the passenger side. there's a plastic screw connected to a small tube that's for draining hte radiator. check to make sure its tight otherwise, grab a light and stick your head in the engine bay until you find the leak! look for a white train where coolant may have leaked and dried up... best of luck, Warren

no problems i had the same problem and found out the hard way one day when i was parked on a clearway.. that's right i had to move my car within 3hrs or it would be towed. i called out a mobile autoelectrician as i couldn't see any problem and had no tools on me. felt pretty silly when we worked out what it was, and $120 later i also felt angry! all the best, Warren

yeah they might not be calling it the supra, kind of like they won't be calling the new GTR a skyline maybe they'll call it the RZ? given the last TT supra was a RZ supra wasnt it? having owned a supra myself, i have a soft spot for them, and personally i think that looks absolutely amazing!

try approaching week 34 out of 40 where end of year exams are on the whole year and 40 weeks last year and could include anything at all from any one of 100 text books!

sounds like a loose battery terminal connector somewhere.. could be +ve or -ve side..

cubes, there is almost no difference in light throttle driving. no i am not kidding. yes there is a slight difference, but i am so used to it now that its really nothing. an in-car vid of the tacho? man, that would be pushing it as i creep towards my exams.. am busy trying to learn how to be a doctor so haven't really got time to just go for a drive and take some footage! will see what i can do after exams are over if you're still interested oh, and as for fuel economy... no change! the torque converter still locks and so i have not noticed any change. i was only getting 300kms to a tank before the trans mods so it wasn't great either way. but then again this is 100% city driving..