WazR32GTSt

mate i disagree completely.. not on what you are saying, because you are right and i know that its not goign to flow great but for this particular guy who wants it to look stock not just sound stock. an aftermarket exhaust will look aftermarket. all you have to do is look under the car and hey presto there's teh exhaust! cops aren't bright and don't car that its quiet if it looks aftermarket for that stealth look but trying to get some more power, stick with the stock cat-back. after all, its an NA car and won't respond to exhaust mods like a turbocharged car horse for courses, and for this particular application its got to be the way

what i find odd is that the AFRs are almost dead flat all the way through, even though it is lean maybe its not actually a stock ECU? have you checked what it looks like for some kind of sticker? or opened it even?

i have no problems with my brake setup at all bendix ultimates, motul brake fluid, master cylinder stopper.. got the pads from justjap.com cheers, Warren

i didn't sasy "dyno tune" i said time on the dyno to adjust timing a dyno is just rollers so that the car can be driven as on the street but still monitored (eg listening for pinging) with the car strapped to the dyno the mechanic can see how the engine runs (eg is it making the right amount of power?) and adjust the CAS to change the base timing (give it more power!) this usually costs around $100-110 depending on the workshop and is highly recommended

good way to spend $900 in my opinion: - full turbo-back exhaust - turbotech boost controller set to about 10psi - oil and sparkies changed - 1 hour on dyno to adjust the timing you want a 3" exhaust.. no bigger, no smaller... probalby the greatest mod that one could EVER do to a turbocharged vehicle...

roy, i think you and i are about the only people on SAU that actually like their rb20!

shift kit review: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=shift+kit

you've already got a tiptronic by the sounds of it, so just go a "stage 2 shift kit" which simply firms up gear changes.. basicalyl makes gear changes instantaneous so it chirps between gears on full throttle... do a search for more info i have posted the results of when i did this for "hidden" mods, i would suggest... exhaust: extractors and cat, but with stock cat-back. if its loud, it will be obvious that its modifed intake: new air filter and cold air intake head: adjustable cam gears computer: some kind of adjustable management. try the SAFC2 for a cheap option this will take base power from about 110rwkw in stock form to maybe 125rwkw. don't expect much more without big $$$ being spent. unfortunately you don't see the gains that you get with a turbo car... best of luck, Warren

it miht be a loose connector on the ptu (little black box on top of com covers at rear that sends power to the coils) at that rpm you might be getting a harmonic that is causing a loose contact to dislodge in the ptu worth a try...

rb20 ftw! if money is no option, i'd say go the rb24 route.. no one here has the balls to do it, all i hear is "its too expensive" well who has actually done it?

that'i have no idea where i got that number but it was 2years ago... at $180 its no cheaper than what Mr Nissan is asking...

i have the type 1 kit on my R32 and its great quality... cost less than 500 delivered

i called NGK last week... the guy had no listing for the rb20det then, he said he'd do some research and call japan and see if he can get one in.. he called me back.. moral of the story? NGK don't make an O2 sensor for the rb20det END OF STORY

hey did you paint/tint your indicators? they look darker, plus the orange bt on teh side looks black...

not bad mate.. a little to drift for me, but looks good

mate i only remember having black ties that go under the seat and tie to eachother to hold it on.. is that what you mean?

how much power are you making? what mods do you have? auto or manual? my automatic R32 ran a 14.7 @ 98mph with 155rwkw and a 60' of 2.5sec.. if that helps for comparison

was the mercury motorsport s13 out there? what did it run?

bump...

mate, you'd be running more than 7psi with those mods.. the eneral rule of thumb is: - FMIC on its own doesn't give any extra power - if you have adequate cooling and the turbo stays within its efficiency range, then 1 psi = 10rwkw cheers, Warren

well if you have sideskirts and rear pods then mud guards don't even fit.. so that will discount most people..

got an R32? i have 2 rear mud guards that i'm trying to get rid of...!

oh, ok fair enough.. yeah i gave a wave

unfortunately its behind the instrument cluster and requires the whole dash to be taken off to get to it.. its only about 10-15 screws though do a search on how to do that it can only be disconnected, not changed

ok mate listen up you have an NA R32 - that's probably the rb20de engine.. not really a lot to work with here. sure your car still looks great, handles great, and probalby stops great too. but it ain't got much balls.. there's not really much you can do about it unfortunately stock rb20de probably will make about 80rwkw given its age to make the most out of what you have, i'd suggest: - extractors, high-flow cat, 2.5" exhaust ($1000) - high-flow panel airfilter in stock airbox ($80) - ECU re-tune and time on the dyno to adjust base timing etc. ($500) that should bring you up to around 100-110rwkw if you're lucky my advice? drive and enjoy what you have, and save for something a bit bigger and better later on in the mean time read as much as you can on SAU because its clear that you don't know too much about how cars work. use the search function of the forum before you ask any questions and you will find more info than you even need. at the end of the day don't be afraid to ask something even if you get bagged for it. best of luck, Warren