WazR32GTSt

front bumper SOLD rest still for sale!

just keep an eye on the low oil light at teh bottom of the gauge... that's not faulty. if it comes on, pull the car over ASAP

hahaha honestly why sell an R33 turbo to get a NA lancer if you're a performance car enthusiast?? listen to us all on SAU.. we all deal with the cops who hate modified cars. its something you deal with for the love of driving... so are you a skyline or car enthusiast? did you even have a choice in the matter or did you dad sell the R33 and buy this for you? the R33 wasn't yours was it?

SK, will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also? i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140? thanks, Warren

as long as the oil pressure warning light is not illumminated, then all is ok the stock oil pressure sender is dodgy on all nissan imports and won't give you anything even close to the correct pressure... i recently installed an aftermarket gauge in my glovebox and find that: when warm at idle it sits between 1-2bar when warm and cruising/driving the oil pressure varies with rpm (can't see this on the stock gauge) and sits up around the 3-4bar area obviously pressures are much higher when the oil is cold gauge cost me $20 (ebay) gauge cup $5 (ebay) sandwich plate $30 (justjap) not a bad investment and is hidden in the glovebox nicely cheers, Warren

man that is scary shit.. are you keeping the tank as full as possible in case you run out of fuel?

try going to supercheap and buying about 3metres of fuel hose and about 6 new small hose clamps then when the car is cold, look under the hood and find the fuel lines in the bonnet. there should be 3 rubber hoses: 1 - from teh bottom on the engine on drivers side to the fuel filter 2 - from the fuel filter to the fuel rail 3 - coming back from the fuel pressure regulator to the bottom of the engine bay again i replaced all hoses and clamps, and my fuel smell went away if you are going to do this, i suggest also replacing the fuel filter while you are at it and i even relocated the fuel filter to be within easier reach. when doing this, remember to remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the car for a few seconds first to get all the fuel out of the lines... it can't hurt to do it even if there's no problem, as hoses get brittle after 15 or so years of being exposed to 100deg temps! cheers, Warren

am also interested in this, as i want to move my cannister soon as its the best place for my catch can to go... where aer you thinking of mounting it, michael?

they can usually find the parts too for you too...

are you capable of changing suspension components yourself? if it were me, i would just take it to a trusted mechanic and call upon their expertise...

that's what happened to me the insides of my 14-year old coils were shot rather than getting second hand coils that might go in a few months or a year, i went for splitfires.. haven't looked back!

what car? you mean parker light? on my R32: i loosened the battery clamp so that i could move it, but i didn't take the battery out then i simply grabbed the light mechanism and twisted it and it came out then i replaced the bulb with a wedge-type bulb then i screwed it back in the opposite direction to get it locked into place then i replaced the battery if its an R33 i have no idea because you provided us with no information on the type of car hope that helps, Warren

every car takes about 3-5secs or even slightly longer to prime the fuel lines with a normal fuel pump its hard to hear, but with a loud pump like the walbro you can easily hear it perfectly normal

i bought my GTR front off a guy with vertical doors.. here's his car.. hope he doesn't mine me posting it.. cheers, Warren

sounds like you've reached the limit of what the coils are capable of, Bl4ck32... thinking of splitfires?

where was the leak?

i am, but i also run adjustable cam gears but i don't think the cams contribute to off boost performance, more the cam gears that adjust the cam position... which was what i was trying to say...

mercury motorsport only got the software recently (as in this month) as sam was up here in QLD last week showing them how to use it... so tis new software

i;ve already posted a diagram, and theres about 3 others in the first page of the thread...

cam gears, not cams

sure its not the brakes? i had squeaky brakes that i only heard when i was turning at low speeds the pads were almost completely gone and the piston was sqeuaking when i had my foot on the pedal..

so when you get 'adjustable hieght' suspension, its the shock that actually being adjusted? i'm thinking along the lines of the person who started the thread.. as in i want - confortable ride - slightly lower like 20-25mm or so (thats adjustable in case of cops) - nothing more than for the street.. ie no drift work ever! should i get some of the group buy shocks and chuck them into the standard springs? is that possible? and that would keep comfortable ride and adjustable ride height?? if that's possible, why bother going for the group buy springs also? what do they add to the combo? also, are any of the other stuff needed to get this all setup? eg bushes or whatever... i'm an extreme newbie at suspension! cheers, Warren

try cam gears.. worked well for me, basically shifted my whole power curve left otherwise, the usual exhaust mods should help oh, and throw in some more base timing

you only need to trim the reo when changing front bumper if you're using the same bumoper, then its only the bumper itself that needs to be cut good luck! Warren

its not a garret? i thought it was... its compressor wheel is steel, while its exhaust wheel is ceramic, just like the rb20 turbo. this means that at high boost it can generate too much exhaust heat and the exhaust wheels can delaminate and separate from the shaft. That's why people say generally they have a maximum boost that should be run through them without damaging the turbo... on an rb25 engine, its good for 11-12psi max on an rb20 engine, its good for 14-15psi max its a great little upgrade on the rb20 motor as it provides more high rpm pull without getting too much lag down low PS welcome to SAU