WazR32GTSt

where would you buy insulative stuff, gordo? will places like supercheap have that?

stock torque converter is 1500rpm, which can be taken to 1800rpm with foot on the brake his ideal upgrade (that he recommended to me, thus what i have) is a 2800rpm converter, and can be taken just over 3000rpm with foot-on-brake launch

do you have any picks of the low-mount type for an rb20 with T3 flange (so basically setup with turbo in same position as stock etc.) cheers, Warren

i'd say there is a psychological factor in there also, troy as in you know you are making more power with the higher boost, so you then feel that extra power that you know you can expect... in theory, it should be exactly the same if the boost control setup is adequate if the boost setup is poor, i can imagine a difference. eg usign a turbotech controller to control boost, with the bolt wound in you are increasing the tension on the spring, and thus helpign even more to control wastegate creep than over a spring with elss tension in the bosot controller.. but with an EBC i don't see this beign an issue... maybe also, when the first setup reaches max boost, say 4000rpm, the torque rate isn't increasing (torque remains constant), and at this point the torque fells like it drops off, when in fact it just remains steady.. rather than with the higher boost setting, where you make an extra 7 psi on tiop of that, and you reach max boost at 5000rpm, you have an extra 1000rpm of increasing torque before it levels off, so it actually feels more torquey but its really because it keeps on going when you expect it to? i don't know, just trying to reason it out.. try not to think too much into it, it makes neurons swell and die cheers, Warren

link? ebay manifold have gotten a bad rap on here over the years i have never used one myself or met anyone with one, so can't really comment, but would like to see a picture of hte equal length runner design most low-mount ones i see have the runners join at different lengths and i dont' really like the look of it personally

man i feel your pain a few months after moving to brisbane my r32 was egged, keyed, and bottled... makes me furious...

"loudness" is a matter of opinion... remember that most on these forums like cars and like loud exhausts. so somethin that most of the public would call "loud" will generalyl be called "soft" on the forums i think my exhaust is nice but i tink many would call it "soft" rathe than "loud"

what fuel pump are you running?

go have a read on www.aus300zx.com in the technical pages.. they have a big writeup about changing the OPS (oil pressure sender unit) many of them changed their unit only to have it fail again after 6 months... my setup: gauge (ebay) comes with sender unit - $30-60 depending on what brand sandwich plate - $25 from justjap i mounted it in the glovebox. still can use the stock gauge for hte oil pressure warning light (which is accurate) plus its WAY more accurate than the stock gauge good investment me thinks

i have them thanks gary for organising this (i tried PM'ming you to thank you but your inbox is full!)

is the "low oil pressure light" on? get an aftermarket gauge.. 1/100th of the price of a new engine

check out: www.carmate.com.au www.jetspeed.com.au www.justjap.com.au www.nismo.com.au hope they help carmate has heaps of different styles the others don't have but their quality is generalyl less than that of jetspeed and justjap

damn! bloody toll priority came when i wasn't home and didn't even call me! looks like i'm going to pick them up from the depot tomorrow won't have them in until a couple of weeks though due to uni exams.. will post up how i go when its done thanks again SK Warren

have you tried j-shop in WA? i'm not sure what they sell but i know its aftermarket products of some kind...

as per PM i sent, mine is sitting gathering dust too.. if anyone happened to PM me who wanted it i would certainly let it go for the right price

there's a guy in sydney who re-tunes R33's (do a search) and i know mercury motorsport (www.mercurymotorsport.com.au) tune R34's so it can be done when i said replace z32 with FMIC, i mean don't get a z32, use the standard one (it will work fine) and use the cash to get a FMIC kit

oh no, please not the powerFC in an auto arguement again! there's a whole thread for that... safe to say a remap is a great idea and is available for all models of skylines these days...

mate, ditch the z32 AFM idea and profec B idea and replace with FMIC kit (eg justjap) and turbutech boost controller.. then spend the rest on shift kit and high-stall and trans cooler

how was the radiator to fit? easy? does it work well? car looks nice, mate...

you don't want too stiff though.. on our corvette, its so stiff that sometimes you have to press hard to actually get the pedal in, but you end up pressing too much and jolting forward!

i personally think the "can't run above 3000rpm" thing is your AFM.. somehow it has lost connection to the ECU.. that's cassic symptoms of "limp home mode" that the ECU goes into when the AFM is stuffed

yeah just take it to a regular mechanic if you just want a service eg oil, oil filter, spark plugs, etc. i'd also steer clear of kmart they can be a bit exxy too ultratune are generally pretty good... or just look up yellow pages for a regular mechanic around your area if you're anywhere near Fortitude Valley, there's a decent ultratune there and the manager drives a worked evoIII and knows imports pretty well. he has helped me out before with my r32... good luck, Warren

did you unplug your AFM at any stage? check that its plugged in properly...

can i get some pics please warren_clements at hotmail dot com is the "dark blue" the same as the stock dark blue? cheers, Warren

is it 4psi on the gauge? what gauge are you reading? if its the stock gauge, then 4 on the stock boost gauge is normal...