WazR32GTSt

not much more... if you've hacked your stock bar nicely (read: a lot) like i did then it had lots of flow anyway i did it mainly for looks..

nice out of curiosity, what's the legality on cutting the bonnet? PS i reckon spray the mesh black also.. looks a bit funny with the mesh in silver but the vent in black...

true, thread tape is a must also make sure there's a rubber o-ring between the sandwich plate and the block...

yeah my stock bar was hacked with my stock bumper but when i put on an original GTR bumper, no cutting at all was required they can be had for cheap, i paid $250 for mine but snapped it up the day it was advertised... and as for the reo, cutting depends on if the bumper has the N1 holes or not. if yes, then reo cutting or finding a GTR reo is a must cheers, Warren

yeah but that's the same price as buying a carton of VB and getting the code anyway... i also don't like VB very much, so if someone has bought more than one slab recently, feel free to PM me any code they aren't using

well your options are as follows: 1 - get a new fibreglass bar from justjap/carmate/jetspeed for $500 2 - get a new original bar from nissan for $1000 3 - find a secondhand original GTR bar on SAU for around $300 4 - find a secondhand fibreglass bar on SAU for like $200 i think option 3 is the best option. original plastic GTR bars fit the GTSt no worries. you take a risk with any second-hand fibreglass bumper if you max price range is $400 then you haven't got many options. keep in mind that you will have to get it painted and that might cost around $200 also.. good luck, Warren

well if coil pack 3 showed no spark then that's your problem if the coil pack itself is ok, then check the loom to that coil, then try changing the ignitor.. it would take 5 seconds to swap an ignitor over...

although the factors sender is shitty, it still has the "low oil pressure" light function that does in fact work.. that's the advantage of the sandwich plate as you can keep the factory gauge light and still have your aftermarket gauge! ps this thread might be of some help: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=144726

i have a spare steering column in my garage.. where are you located? if you want to grab the indicator mechanism off it, i would be more than happy to sell it PM me if interested.. cheers, Warren

i have been looking at those too... how do they line up against the car? do they fit to the standard location or are they universal? would be keen to see some pics when they are installed

will it fit the standard airbox/AFM location?

does this take into account automatics, including the fact that full throttle is only achieved when the operator is sure it won't kick back? that makes them hard to compare for low down power plus they lose more power through the drivetrain..

damn, i'm out... sheared one of the bolts of the rear strut top trying to install my rear strut brace!! aaaaaaarrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh!! car not driveable now until its fixed, and i don't think i can find a strut top and have it installed before the weekend... i could come in the corvette, but then would have to cruise at the back and that's no fun..

thnks mate will PM SK about getting some

PM Blitz, i think he imports/sells them...

ok i have done some more research.. i think they are castor rod bushes... and i understand that new ones can be had through the group buy, is that correct SK? do those have the same functionality as the stock ones? cheers, Warren

glad to help, mate i recently installed a guage in my glovebox and wow it reads so differently to the stock gauge. even when i thought the stock gauge was working ok, it was reading no where near right.. good luck with it all

ok so this is a picture of what is supposedly worn on my car.. it has some oil/moisture around it, but not as bad as in this picture so my questions are: - what is it called? - are they on front and rear or just front? - where can i get a replacement? would appreciate any help! Warren

car is parked on the street at the moment, so will search SAU for a pic of suspension and post when i have found one thanks all for your help so far... stay tuned to help me more!

a thin film of il is normal, but a lot of oil is abnormal...

you can't run it from the original sender.. that's what is the problem with the stock gauge and if you remove the original sender, then you will lose the stock gauge functionality - yes it doesn't work anyway, but it has a "low pressure" light that does work and is useful to keep going so really going a sandwich plate is the only option to keep the standard gauge and the low pressure light, whilst also being able to run an additional gauge. Deren, when you say "you have that as standard" do you mean the sender itself, or the sandwich plate? i wasn't aware of any cars that came out of hte factory with a sandwich plate for any of its gauges..

yeah but with that gauge, the difference between "lights on" and "lights off" is pretty much nothing i wired up my autogauge boost gauge to the lights, and when i turn the lights on it makes almost no difference... so i figured i'd just wire up my oil pressure gauge with the lights on.. plus, mine is hidden in the glove box anyway so its never exposed to full sunlight

as has been said, the AFM wire will indeed sense less amount of air, but all this will do will make the car run leaner as it will add less fuel. without tuning it would be useless. and given you'd have to tune, it makes sense to go z32 if you are going the whole hogg btw.. nissan AFMs use a hot wire with variable resistances, right?

and then when the pipe is put back on, just hope that the plugs aren't fouled! that's what happened when i blew off a cooler pipe.. had to change the plugs to get it to run again... (they were due for a change anyway and i had them there to change that week)

shocks went in today and work great!! car rides nicely and very smooth still - onyl slightly harder than stock, but definately handles better and sits 24mm lower than stock for everyone's reference, i used the bilstean shocks on stock springs dropped down 3 circlip grooves... i might get the rear guards rolled for precaution given that i'm running 9" rears with +40 offset a question for everyone though: when i picked the car up, they said that something else was also worn out. they pointed it out on the car, but i don't know what its called. it connects from the lower control arm to something under the engine. looks like a rod with a ball-shaped thing on the end can anyone enlighten me as to what it is and whether or not it actually might need replacing? oh, and i had the suspension fitted at Vitanza Tyres in Fortitude Valley, Brisbane. Highly recommended for tyres and suspension cheers, Warren