WazR32GTSt

hey mate, from what i know.. the rb20 has been around for quite a while now. started out inthe r31 in japan as an rb20 redtop NICS. then, after some development, along came the rb20 redtop ECCS version, also in the R31 the r32 came out with the rb20 silvertop ECCS version. all r32's have the rb20 silvertop version, all have a ball-bearing ceramic turbo, all are intercooled etc. they are a great engine for modifications. now remember that they are only 2L in capacity, so when the turbo is "off boost" they lack the ability to get the car moving like a commodore would. but, after say 3000rpm, they really get moving. on a manual car, with about 2000 spent on an exhaust, boost controller, and maybe a front-mount intercooler, they go like a cut snake.

ok just a report on how the car drives.. cruise/light throttle/revving are smoother. not much, its hard to notice, but it has less intermittant hiccups. as far as fuel economy goes, i used to get about 250kms per tank, purely city driving, but since the sensor change i have gotten 80kms from 1/8 of the tank, so at early stages seems to have improved my fuel economy markedly daniel: still has a slight "hiccup" at idle. much less frequent than before you had the car, but its still there ever now and then.

ha ha... lab work is still interesting stuff though..

very boring.. thus why i switched into medicine. you don't get bored because its always different... but its still very interesting

i use standard springs over the bilstein shocks from the group buy... i can still lower the car with the additional circlip grooves on the shocks, but ride cdomfort is 100% as per stock so essentially i get a car that sits lower (for looks), handles better, but with stokc ride comfort.. yes its not going to handle as a car with stiffer springs but it is better than stock and perfect for my needs as i never plan on seeing track time.. ever.

what kind of lab work do you do? i did honours in a lab working with mice doing stem cell transplants and running the usual boring stuff like SDS-PAGE and ELISAs...

when you say "labs" do you mean laboratory work? what do you do?

thansk again adam, hope those beers go down nicely daniel: haven't been able to notice much difference yet as i have only driven it home and nowhere else. but, it hasnt missed a beat yet i will report back of the differences in a few days.. and with some fuel economy changes (if any) oh, and i have had a couple of PM's about the part number for the geniune nissan item, and its: 22690-73L11

thanks col last time it was put back in was when i had my dump pipe changed so i haven't had to take it out for ages plus with the split dump/front it sits lower than with a bellmouth dump/front so that makes it harder again...

thanks everyone for their help i have organised for adam (devils_advocate21) to help me out tomorrow i am soaking the barstard in WD-40 overnight tonight so shouldn't be a problem tomorrow with the right tools

nice purchase mate.. welcome aboard

it would be ok as long as there was some kind of separator plate in the end tank between the entry/exit holes essentially it would be 2 thin intercoolers on top of eachother... but if there were no separating plate, theoretically most air would bypass the core and go straight to the engine without going through the core.. that would obviously be pointless

a very quick search would inform you that things like suspension, tyres, transmission, and average power, will tell you more about a car's ability than peak power on any random dyno

PM sent

so i don't have many tools, thus why i am asking if anyone can help me out?

don't have an angle grinder either

So i have finally decided to get a new oxygen sensor form Mr Nissan, but my problem is that its bloody impossible to remove as i can't get a spanner in there and get enough torque on the spanner to undo it! i tried an ultratune which was open sat mornings that is nearby me, but they don't have the tool to do it now i know there is a tool which is like a big socket that goes over the o2 sensor but has a hole in the side for the wire to go through.. i went to supercheap and repco but no luck. repco have one in toowoomba but that's not much help this is what it looks like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oxygen-Sens...sspagenameZWD1V so does anyone have one? or does anyone have another special device that could help me out? a 6-pack of beer is in it for any kind soul that wants to help me out this weekend preferrable near to the brisbane city cheers, Warren PS if you can help me out, send me a PM with your mobile/home number so that i can contact you

nice wheels i have the same in 18*8 and 18*9 but mine are blue on the inside.. i thought that was the default colour for rays/volk wheels? it might be blue underneath the red..

sounds like a stock nissan ECU to me... my AFRs were about 10.5:1 before i had my ECU tuned what others get on different dynos at different times isn't really comparible to what your brother got. dyno's are for comparing before and after, not for comparing between different dynos on different days etc.

i agree we can't change what has happened but it is worth writing about having no alarm because we can learn from things like this. for example, everyone that reads this thread that has no alarm will (hopefully) think about going out and getting one... and when i say alarm, i mean alarm + immoboliser. i don't even know of any alarms that don't include at least an immobiliser... most even come with other goodies like shock sensors etc.

as i said, mercury have been good to me and they do offer great advice as well as get the job done plus they can do a full tune of the stock ECU exactly as you would get with a powerFC.. where else in brisbane can you get that?

no alarm??

welcome back, geoff. you trully are an asset to have and it will be great for SAU-qld to have you around but having made the melb to brisbane move, i don't see it as exciting as you do. yes brisbane has some awesome weather (except summer) but it will never have the lifestyle that melbourne offers if you are used to inner-city melbourne... are you still with the army? will you be doing army stuff up here?

basedo n what i have experienced myself and what i have read on the forums... i would say go the SK group buy, its far superior to coilovers for the street and requires less ongoing maintenance also, suspension is something that should be done professionally...

castol magnatec