WazR32GTSt

not the place on mcintire road called "nisma"? went there once looking to see if they had any front bumpers for sale. they didn't even want to chat to me.. i have also heard other stuff, which i won't say on a public forum, PM me for more info

i think there is a glue called "plastic weld" specifically designed for high-temp plastics like radiators i used it ony my girlfriend's radiator top tank once (old ford laser) where she had a hairline crack... and it held for about 3 weeks before she could get it to a workshop to get fixed. and even then it still looked like it wasn't going to leak for ages! try supercheap, but expect to pay around $20 or so

my turbotech boost controller comes on very early, has never spiked, and holds boost flat on the dyno every time i personally can't see the advantage of an EBC at 4-5 times the price

my personal opinion is that if you can afford a HKS 2535 and the required supporting mods, then you can also afford poncams + adjustable cam gears to make it come onto boost a lot earlier. i wouldn't be surprised if you could get it down 500-800rpm based on my own personal experiences

i'm just sitting here imagining what 3K put into an auto box would be like... or even 2K into an auto and an extra 1K for power mods...

stock boost on a stock r32 is 9psi based on my experiences, the stock turbo won't make any more power after about 12psi. and after you approach 15 or 16psi, you are really starting to ask more of the turbo than its got in it with the stock turbo i'd try it at 14psi but don't hope for too much improvement over what you have now the rb25 turbo is only a mild upgrade, and may take 14psi with a decent increase in power but again it won't make more than 14psi without hitting a wall there too. the boost is relative to the capacity of the engine. a 2.5L engine making 12psi is much more air being compressed than a 2L engine making 12psi. that's why a rb25 generally won't handle as much boost before it will blwo a turbo because airflow at 12psi on an rb25 is proportional to airflow at around 14psi on an rb20 anyway this is based on my understanding and my experiences. cheers, Warren

i don't know about what others feel, but personally i don't want to run my car more than 4 or 5 times anyway.. even if i had free reign all night!

this is a good idea.. maybe something for the exec to consider as an official club event for later in the year?

i have been running from 155 - 170rwkw through my box for about 2 years now and i don't drive it easy my auto hasen't missed a beat, but i do service it every 20,000kms

for all those wondering.. the 17th is on regardless of whether people want to pull out because of its potential V8 domination or not hope to see many people there

no worries mate.. its actually ther because normally you can't move the gearstick without the key in the ignition and foot on brake but the button allows for manual override eg if you have to put it in neutral with the car off

damn that sucks.. a lot of this has been happeneing on the southside recently its a bloody shame

what suburb?

just in response to a few PM's i have recieved on the same topic, this event it open to everyone and anyone. you don't have to join the official club or anything you just have to come on the day, pay the people at the gate, and look for the group of skylines in the carpark or in the waiting area where you line up

the problem is that the turbotech boost controllers are very sensitive.. as in very small turns of the screw change the boost in big ways. mine is almost screwed out completely to hold 14psi that and adding a FMIC changes the overall restriction in the intake. you will ifnd that there is less restriction there now and this is affecting your boost reading. just re-adjust it and you'll be fine. cheers, Warren

so you just need the bolt only? just get a pack of bolts from supercheap, that what i did mine came with a short bolt but i wanted a longer one so went and got a pack from supercheap just tell them what you want it for and they might let you take one to your car to try it for size or something

we want posted timeslips and pics tomorrow night / sunday morning now people!

nice result i find it hard to imagine that one could gain such power, even with a FMIC, especially everywhere in the rev range not just up top but you seem to have evidence there

i got mione through caz @ cazracing: http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=25 she is in WA.. so you can buy locally! and you can download free software for it through ecutalk: http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx you're welcome cheers, Warren

if the melbourne show is anything like the brisbane show was, its worth a look.. they had the new corvette, 3 lambo's, jaguar XKR, audi R8, 3 ferrari's, 2 hummers, bentley continental, and a few more...

jasma is not a brand its a "standard" in japan, ie a company makes an exhaust and if it meets the japanese standard then they print "jasma" on it post a pic of them...

yeah shouldn't matter if the orange wire wasn't connected.. but black is to ground not to the OPS the green wire should be the only one going to the OPS

black = ground red/orange = +12V green = sensor to the OPS does that help? from memory there are 2 black and 2 red wires the orange wire is actually for the backlight (eg at night) but it does absolutely nothing so i connected mine as constant 12V source

use a high-temp paint most of them don't need a primer (read the side of the can), and surely ifyou used a primer it would have to be a special high-temp primer anyway? makign it twice as expensive just clean it properly first i'd suggest going black on heat shields, so that even if the paint does begin to discolour you won't even notice! i paintedmy turbo heat shield red once with high temp paint and half of it turned black (burnt i assume), then i rubbed it back and painted it black before i sold it off

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