WazR32GTSt

if you're trying to get a good idea of the use of aftermarket ECUs than that classification won't help you... eg, a guy running a stock ECU on a mildly modified engine with terrible AFRs and retarded timing, will have a completely different ECU to the next guy with the same mods but re-written ECU, and 12:1 AFRs and nicely advanced timing, making about 20rwkw more or if you're not trying to see how many run aftgermarket ECUs then i don't see the point in listing all those aftermarket ECUs there that hardly anyone is actually using but its your thread.. what are you trying to get out of it?

stock ECU with EPROM isn't an option there, buy a very popular choice

i'm 6"4 and i have it one notch from being fully back, and its pretty comfortable.. (this is without a sunroof though)

just bumping this thread as i've found a temporary solution that i use now... try this: - start the car - let it idle for 30sec - 1min, give it a blip of the throttle to check that its got its usual flat feel to it - turn the car off - immediately turn the car back on - blip the throttle again... notice the flat feel is gone? i was getting annoyed by having the car jerk around for a few minutes while i had passengers in it and its very annoying. this way the car drives perfect. its no excuse to stop driving sedately while the engine warms up, but it restores the dormal driving characteristics in the mean time. must be something to do with the ECU sensing that the engine has been off for a certain period of time. thus, when the car is turned off and then on again, the ECU thinks its been on recently and uses the normal timing and fuel maps... keen to see if it helps others... post up your results... cheers, Warren

160rwkw sounds about right

first post updated

well if i was in your situation.. so new car, and 2K to spend firstly, i would do a full service - oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, clean the coils, clean the AFM, clean the AAC valve (do a search for more info on this) then i would take it to a mechanic and give it a power run on the dyno to check AFRs and check the health of the engine now, its already got some go-fast bits, so i might check if its a full exhaust or a cat-back, and if its only cat-back then i would finish off the exhaust now on an r32gtst you can run up to 14psi fairly safely so i would adjust up to 12-14psi and seee how it runs with the rest of the money i would get the windows tinted, and look for a nice second-hand set of 18" rims with tyres already on them hope that helps Warren.

i had it dome on mine i turned up at the mechanics with the rb25 turbo and the elbow pipe and picked it up the next day all done ...no extra parts or anything were required the gains up top are very mild on an rb20 but the good news is that there's still virtually the same minimal amount of lag so its not too bad of an upgrade

thanks for those parts mate this guy is a genuine seller and a top bloke to deal with...

i remember going there about adjusting cam gears after my poncam install they said they wouldn't do it without me buying an interceptor style ECU and getting them to tune it at the same time. then when i told them that i have had my stock ECU tuned by mercury motorsport using their Dr Drift software, they laughed at me and said that its not possible with the stock ECU so i laughed at them while i walked away...

no hicas boss kit means your hicas won't work and you will lose 4ws this also means the hicas light will stay on all the time

its the same principles as a private investigator i suppose.. they're not cops, but can perform investigations and surveillance on people..

wasteland?

yeah but what i'm saying is that the AFM is the cause, and the plugs are fouled because of the AFM so a new AFM might fix the cause, but the car might not start still because the plugs are foulled you have to fix the cause (AFM) and the effected parts (plugs) at the same time to see if this is in fact the case

its entirely possible that its the AFM as stated, and because its been running rich for so long you have simply fouled the plugs... i'd say get a new set of plugs ($20 all up for NGK copper BCPR6ES) and get a hold of someone's AFM change them both at the same time and see if it kicks over and runs ok hope that helps

well when i posted this... 1 - i had my car for less than a year 2 - i obviously had too much time on my hands 3 - i knew next to nothing about skylines its amazing how you can learn on SAU... but you'd expect this from a newbie ...now can we close this thread already?

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/produc...nedit/index.htm

wow look at the stupid thread i started 3 years ago...

think its sorted now frank

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LEATHER-SEAT-R32-R3...1QQcmdZViewItem i can highly recommend their work, having personally bought seats for my R32 off them and a real bargain when you consider the price and what you get for it! cheers, Warren

unfortunately most mechanics don't know shit that's why they tell you crap, because they simply don't know some stuff... and the mentality in that industry is to lie when you don't know rather than simply saying "i don't know but i'll go look it up" because that's how they think you have probably jsut realised that its very important to find a good mechanic (not a good bloke, but someone who knows your car inside out) and even then, when they tell you something, think about it, and research it yourself we can all learn something form your experiences Freeman

how does the turbo drive now? laggier? mroe power? worth the cash?

dishwashing liquid works a treat and costs next to nothing. you only need a tiny squirt of liquid though just think of how clean and streak-free dishes are after you just wash them...

are you willing to separate parts? i'm after a working AFM and a working AAC valve.. PM me if interested in selling them

cool.. what's the go with non-skylines? i might bring down the corvette...