WazR32GTSt

vac line should be coming from after the TB, ie the intake manifold thus, when the TB closes, the pressure before the TB is higher than the pressure after the TB, and this overcomes the spring pressure and the bov opens

nooooooooo what's up Bunta? surely it can't be that urgent...

don't replace springs with lowered ones without replacing shocks too...

ebay has quite a few parts every now and then, might be worth looking there also

are you after the stock plastic gtr bumper? or can you live with fibreglass? if you're after the stock GTR bumper then keep an eye peeled on the for sale area is your best bet if you can deal with fibreglass, try ww.justjap.com or www.jetspeed.com.au and you'll be looking at around $550 cheers, Warren

what course were you doing at uni?

is there a sticker on the inside? there is on mine...

welcome to the forums, adam! nice to see people use some sense when buying a car - start with something they can afford to damage, then upgrade to something better when they have experience under their belt car looks great too - love the colour. not too keen on the bodyit, but hey, each to their own cheers, Warren

gunmetal

i can vouch for his style of tuning.. i have a mercury motorsport ecu tune which is using the software they bought from dr drift tune is great and retains stock knock sensors and cold start etc. only problem is that if you want a re-tune then there's only one place you can go... with things like a powerFC, you can pretty much go to anyone to get a tune

as far as bellmouth goes.. if you're dishing out to put a dump pipe in, its wel worth paying that little bit extra for the split style. based on my experiences anyway.

justjap is an excellent company with great customer support. i haven't tried their dump pipes before so can't comment on their quality i can vouch for the bos/batmbl dump pipes though - excellent upgrade

man looks bloody awesome! just remove that tape / whatever that is making those terrible eyelids on the front headlights and you have yourself a beast nice to see some good GTRs going around.. its terrible the amount of shit quality GTRs selling for cheap these days.

raining here on northside.. sounds VERY loud too on the roof.. doesn't sound like hail yet though

ha ha yeah mine was totally different to drive after the stally and shift kit i can get 5+ psi on the line now before i even move, hopefully it rockets down the quarter!

you're killing me, gordo!

should be great to watch regardless of how many skylines come along i will probably spend most of the night watching after i have a few early runs..

you can do whatever.. personally i like the "look at my huge FMIC" style of front bumper, but each to their own

if you are referring to my post, i meant get it down 500-800rpm from where it is now.. ie from 4000rpm to 3500rpm.. not get it down to 500-800rpm, that's just ludicrous

you better hide when the new GTR comes then... seriously every second person mouths off about auto's but how many of them actually driven an auto skyline? given the hostility in the tone of your response, i would say you don't. not the same as jumping into an auto falcadore having personal experience with owning an auto skyline with 2800rpm high-stall and shift kit, i can say that the gearbox is amazing, and the shifts are incredible. well worth it for 1K including parts and labour.

you might not find an answer to your question because its something that no one really does i think you'd be safe to assume that the bigger the difference in overall diameter, the bigger the problem it will create.

true, but you want to make sure you don't alter the structural integrity of the item in the case of an airbox it probably doesn't matter, butif it were something more important, say a radiator, you don't want to make it thinner in one area because you melted it, even if it makes a nice tight seal. of couse actually getting it properly done by a plastic welder is different, but DIY with a soldering iron doesn't sound like a sane idea from my end

hmm as far as the ECU goes, what about if you keep the rb20 sensors and use them on the rb25 engine? then you can keep the powerFC and still have your rb25 running right?

that power figure seems about right to me the only real power mods you have that are actually going to increase power would be exhaust and increased boost. don't get me wrong. i wouldnt do it without a fuel pump and FMIC, etc. but you haven't put a lot of power mods in there so don't be expecting too much more

man i love SAU thanks mate, golden find!