WazR32GTSt

justjap have polished options too, they're the type 2 kits. the type 1 kits are chrome plated...

i have been to mercury many a time and have had my ECU remapped by them with their Dr Drift software... they are generally pretty expensive but do a good job on their work. i have had plenty of work done there. there's no one else in QLD that can do the remap that they can do with the stock ECU, so telling this guy to go to allstar is kind of pointless because he would have to go out and get a powerFC to get an equivalent tune so just do it mate and dont regret it!

apparently the auto's in R31 / R32 / R33 / Z32 and a few other cars are very similar, so ive been told by many sources including mike at MV automatics so given that most 300zx TT engines are mated to the auto box and they hold up more than fine, i would say you would be absolutely fine but while you've got your wallet out it can't hurt to add a transmission cooler and maybe even a shift kit to help you out there

mate, i have come across quite a few mechanics in melbourne and queensland over the last 7 years of driving and i can honestly say that one of hte best, if not the best mechanic i have come across is dan from elite racing. he is on the forums as 3lit3_32 (click here to contact him: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&MID=10554) send him a PM and you won't regret it cheers, Warren

how will the light under the coil pack cover go with the heat generated in there? but it looks great... its so shiny, i could have a shave in front of that thing!

happy birthday johno

our 86 corvette runs aound 100deg, hell the thermo fan doesn't even come on until temp reaches 110deg!

justjap come in either polished or chromed so they are the same i have a justjap kit on my R32 and its quality is fantastic for the price! i highly recommend it..

nice car mate i'd second the justjap.com FMIC kits. have a look in the "business traders" section for their thread for an even cheaper deal than on their website

best plugs to run would have to be NGK coppers BCPR6ES they are gapped at 0.8mm from the factory you have no need to run iridiums they are no better than a copper plug and cost $20+ each rather than $3 each for the coppers...

ok mate you definately want an exhaust first... go to www.jsutjap.com and have a look at their full 3" exhaust systems they are a bragain and can see 20+rwkw increases as the stock systems are very restrictive. cost in the range of $900 or so then get some kind of boost controller. the ones most of us here use are "turbotech" controllers. have a look on ebay i think the seller puts them up there for sale. worth about $50 all up you've already got your front-mounted intercooler i see, so that is good and finally, i would get the ECU modified to suit the new changes. this is known as an "ECU re-map". if you're in melbourne, search up someone called "Dr Drift" he works near sunshine and can help you out. for less than $500 you can have him put your car on the dyno, check it out fully, and then re-map your ECU for more power the stock turbo will easily see 160rwkw so don't worry there. things i wouldn't worry about at this stage: - bigger turbo - bigger fuel system if you start searching for power above 160rwkw then a fuel pump and r33 turbo are great, but right now your car will run 100% fine on the stock items all the best, Warren

i have used oil flushes before with no problems at all..

yeah but you can unplug the ignitor, then slide the plug about 70% on so that it looks connected but its actually disconnected

what about just popping the bonnet and disconnecting the ignition module? car can't start without any spark to the cylinders, and its easiest to plug back in without the need for tools etc.

bacuase they can? really... they know you aren't going to get your car towed to a new mechanic

in case anyone is interested, i'm selling my GTS badge from the original group buy, including a "turbo" badge as well for a total of $40. PM me for details. can be bought if needed to send to the supplier to get it copied for the group buy to get going cheers, Warren image: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=71148 thread with details: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=146273

i do mine every 20,000kms i currently have motul fluid in there also, and seems to work well, better than whatever the last fluid was (mobil i think) i also get them to change filter and gasket with that i figure when i'm pumping 50% more power and torque through than standard, and given that it was made 15 years ago, its cheap insurance against transmission failure. i also run a transmission cooler, and for less than $100 it does help me sleep at night

i had a gurgling sound from behind the dash in my old supra and turned out to be the early stages of a blown head gasket... exhaust gasses were slipping through the head gasket and into the water system causing the gurgling sound if i were you i'd get it checked out by a radiator shop...

not a fan of the r34 gtt wheels actually but i do like your car, looks nice and clean... i lowered mine only 24mm with bilstein shocks on stock springs.. ride quality is like stock but it handles totally different now! plus, its still 100mm off the ground so its legal

i got my hpi today in the mail.. not too bad of a read i thought i don't like zoom because its too many datsuns with huge engines in them running 10s and the like.. i like to see original cars modified in their original form to improve on it. not interested when thigns get too abnormal... and autosalon is too many gay cars that are never street driven speed was the perfect mix in my opinion. was shattered when it was axed!

one place we looked at, i turned up dressed in my clinical clothes which is shirt and tie, even had on my boss cufflinks and tie clip for htat extra bling.. we said immediately that we liked it and took a form, then dropped it off that afternoon the next day we found out that we didn't get it, purely because they had so many applications handed in that day (and i'm a student so that makes it that little bit harder) we only ended up getting a place because we downloaded the application form before we went (as said in the post above) and handed it in at the inspection. that, and it was listed at 9am and we were looking in it at 10am

for clear indicators? mate they're not invisible they're just clear and the series 1 R32's had semi-clear anyway so it almost looks stock...

a lot of people are idiots... but then again, if i was that guy and it was my family crossing the road i would have given off a death stare regardless of the circumstances, some people are pretty protective... but yeah i'm come across many an idiot who crosses the road and doesn't even look at whether or not i'm coming down the road and i have to brake because of their incompitance...

PM "Blitz" on the forums that's whre i got mine also, i got my side indicators from ebay for less than $20. on my R32 they are the same as the 90s model magna, so just look for clear versions of those and you're laughing

yeah i was doing it pretty tight but that wasn't the problem really because it was a rear brace i was in the boot trying to use a spanner and ended up resorting to a ratchet but there's not much room to move the handle in there and the problem came when i not only was trying to tighten it but was off balance and introduced some angle on the handle of the wrench causing the bolt to shear off! my bad.. you learn form mistakes better than anything