WazR32GTSt

interesting... a while back, HPI also had an autoamtic rb20 that they converted: they ran it o the dyno, changed the gearbox to a manual, and ran it again. it make 20rwkw more with the manual... i don't know what issue that was, maybe like 2-3 years ago...

nice mate where did you get the automatic work done?

bad analogy.. the human body is designed to pull more efficiently than to push... but i agree with what you're getting at, and i have never, and will never own a FWD car

what MBS206 said is quite valid mate... maybe you should consider the wider effects of what you might be doing? one skyline tries to run no cat/muffler and drones at 100dB+ and then the cops turn on all skylines because they can if you must, why not get this exhaust you want, and change it at the track before your session?

from what i have read on the forums, "cheap" intercoolers have worked fine up to around 250rwkw with no problems above that, who knows? no one has really done it because if you have more than 250rwkw then you can afford whatever intercooler you like, and most opt for a brand name at that stage. so i'd say you will be pretty safe unless you are building a race car personally i got mine from justjap.com and its great quality and fits well good luck, Warren

i have a turbo out of an r32 (rb20) you can have for very cheap if you want if you are doing an high-flow then it will come out about the same as doing it to an rb25 turbo, just use whatever internals you want and it will be the same turbo let me know via PM cheers, Warren

hey mate i have an rb25 wastegate actuator which will work the same if you have a boost controller (eg bleed valve) let me know if you want it for cheap cheers, Warren

I would like to insert a quote from High Performance Inports (HPI) issue no. 73, page 100 Article titled "dyno myths: want to know more about chassis dyno's?" Quote: "Dyno's and auto's. Comparisons between auto and maual packages on the dyno will never make much sense. Where the manual transmission has direct drive through the clutch (provided it is not slipping) to the rear wheels, the torque converter by nature of its design is continually slipping. hence it scrubs off indicated rear-wheel power in the process. There isn't much great auto control software around for imports that lets you measure this slip amount, nor are there many control systems that will let you lock the torque converter clutch for the dyno run (hence drive like a manual transmission). This kind of software exists for fords and holdens, but the best you will be able to do with an auto skyline or supra is to put a manual electronic switch on the torque converter clutch, which allows you to lock the solenoid to the 'on' position. With most factory automatics having what's known in the trade as a 'tight converter' (not a great deal of slip, hence a low stall speed), the losses generalyl aren't huge (maybe 10-20rwkw on a stock converter auto skyline), but add an aftermarket high-stall into the equation and all of a sudden the loss effect becomes far more dramatic. The general rule of thumb is that the 'bigger' and more race-orientated the stall converter fitted to an auto vehicle, the bigger the rise in low-rpm torque on the dyno, and the bigger the loss in indicated power. It's not unusual to see 10sec drag cars dyno as little as 260rwkw through a race-style high stall, which quite obviously makes any manual versus auto comparison void." So i read this as a summary from the article: - automatics slip on the dyno - this cannot be measured by the dyno, thus power shown is actually less than what there is - higher the stall converter, the greater the losses - comparing auto and maual figures is inaccurate is it saying that this slip is a dyno thing, but an auto and manual car will actually have almost the same rwkw but its just that it can't be measured as easily? and, is there a way to lock the torque converter as said in an auto skyline that anyone knows of? can anyone experienced shed some more info on the matter? i've heard people question HPI before, but want to know how exactly how true this is... this obviously interests me as i run a 2800rpm torque converter, but never considered that my losses might be greater than 20 or 30rwkw compared to a manual transmission... its good to know so as to compare how one's engine is going with regards to power per level of mods. And before anyone says it, yes i know dyno figures dont mean much, rather using the same dyno can give you good figures as a camparitor between "before" and "after" ragardless of the total figure. cheers, Warren PS any comments like "auto's suck" or "get a manual" will be reported to a moderator. This is a serious thread about a topic that not many know about and could be a valuable learing resource. Thankyou.

you have to take off the instrument cluster there's a small silver box attached to the back that activates this noise i spent abotu 30mins one day and cut it off and i haven't looked back cheers, Warren

rb120why... is that an rb20? and what gearbox? nice results though mate

i bought an "autogauge" gauge from "online depot" also for pretty cheap they provide a good product for cheap, but there is a couple of weeks delay with them.. worth it for the price you pay

the rb20 engine ran with the rb25 ecu?? surely all the inputs aren't the same...

i wasn't referring to you, cubes, or anyone in particular in the thread.. its just puzzling for someone to go to a tuner heavily involved in the industry and then question what they say, regardless of what it is..

man you can't tell my that 1800hp isn't impressive... bagging something like this is almost as stupid as them bagging a GTR

what i don't understand is this... if you go to a tuner, especially one who has a reputation and one you trust (like you have said), and he says to leave the standard AFM, then why question it? i mean are you a mechanic? are you trained in tuning? cars are variable at best, so at the end of the day if you can't trust what your tuner says, then change tuner. don't believe everything you read on SAU - some is excellent info and is based on years of experience and expertise, but some is simply "armchair tuning" and they just spit out what they read in a thread a few months back. note: i'm not saying the z32 AFM isn't useful here, i have no idea whether or not its useful, i'm asking why one can't trust their tuner, but will still hand over a thousand for an ECU and tune... ?

damn someone beat me to it with the intake temps!

i hate commonwhores too... but you can't help but admire that kind of engineering brilliance that would have gone into any engine that worked i personally like it PS love the dyno "massaging" they have done for the last few kW's.. ambient temp 19deg, intake temp 230deg! still only accounts for a handful of horsepower though...

you'll need a re-allignment whenever you alter the ride height though...

will ride terribly with lowered springs on stndard shocks why not get aftermarket shocks that are height adjustible? that's what i'm doing.. you get ride comfort and handling and the ability to lower it! see the "sydneykid group buy"

keep in mind that for the price of upgrding to a decent clutch you can have in a shift kit and high-stall torque converter into the auto and boy does that make a difference to the way the car drives!

SCC is a type of skin cancer... sure you want to go ahead with that name? hehe

as long as my suspension is in and all is well with the car, i should be there... seeing as exams will have finished by then!!! not that i know anyone really.. only those i met at the drag night so i hope everyone is nice!

mine does the same.. always has how to fix?

damn... and it even looks like it was an "accident" in the true sense of the word in that he's in the middle of the road not wrapped around a pole or in someone's front yard (when in that case "accident" actually means "i was being an idiot")

awesome mate. simply awesome car. not a fan of the white engine bay either but that's neither here nor there really what would finish it off nicely would be a leather interior... mmmmmmmm