WazR32GTSt

man stick for plastic if you can on my R32, i upgraded my GTSt bumper to a GTR bumper which fit with only modification to the stock reo. i scrape it all the time on my driveway its fine every time

i've just put new rear wheels on which are 9-inch wide with 255 tyres.. taking off is even easier and better.. cubes, just think how jucy 10+psi would be at 3000rpm with a nice high-stall on the rb30!

no worries just remember the risk of a fuel leak is an engine bay fire, so get on top of it! all the best, Warren

go get your exhaust! we can talk other mods later...

ok mate, let's start simple does it have an aftermarket exhaust? if not that's the best place to start... my advice is to check out www.justjap.com or www.bosimporting.com.au they are the best places for cheap but good quality exhausts i think justjap has full exhausts from the turbo-back for less than 1k whack that on and you will have a smile from ear to ear

best of luck with it mate.. i can highly recommend the auto, and have recently upgraded it through MV automatics: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130805 auto ftw!!

metalic lines? no.. i mean the rubber lines in the engine bay there should be metal lines that run under the car that end at the engine bay. then there's a hose from those to the fuel filter, a hose from the fuel filter to the fuel rail then on the way back, a hose from the FPR all the way to the metal lines again down below

go to your mechanic

ok first, calm down on all those mods you have listed... now secondly... DON'T convert to manual. you have bought a nice skyline and its still the same car auto or manual. you will hear a lot of crap about "auto's are shit" and "manuals are the only way" etc. most of these people have never driven an auto skyline. you will love your car the way it is. and thirdly... do some reading on the forums. read the forced induction thread at the top for R33's and see what mods people have done. do some searching and you will learn lots about your car. and finally... no one just goes "i want these 20 mods and i want them now!". mods take time. firstly enjoy your car how it is. then do one thing first, and enjoy how it chagned your driving experience. then do another. take it slow or you'll get overstimulated too quickly (that's good advice for you in more ways than one ) cheers, Warren

supercheap sells blue/red heater hoses and fuel hoses justjap.com sells blue/red silicone vaccum hose and silicone joiners for intercooler piping that should bling you up nicely cheers, Warren EDIT: if you're not getting much blow-by then just use heater hose for the catch can. that's what i'm using.

if you don't know the answer to those questions, then the best adivce anyone can give you is to take it to a mechanic... why do you need to change your fuel pump? is it running lean on the dyno? pinging? did a mechanic tell you to? if so go back to them..

they might.. can't confirm that one though... safe to change the lines anyway.. costs about $10 for 2-3 metres of hose.. and abotu an hour worth of swearing etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=115398&hl= cheers, Warren

leaks don't "resolve themselves".. they don't always leak, but it will eventually leak again MKDR33 - go get a new fuel filter (i think the rb20 is part# Z 387 if that helps) and get about 3M of fuel hose. then go about changing all the lines and the fuel filter. i did this recently, and also relocated my fuel filter up near the plenum where its MUCH easier to get to... when you go to change the filter/lines, pull the fuel pump fuse first, and crank the car for a few seconds. this will use most of the fuel in the lines so it doesn't go everywhere.. if you don't do this, you will learn the hard way that's for sure best of luck, Warren

i'll be in at Mercury Motorsport getting my ECU tuned tomorrow and will post results when i have them Abo bob - are you talking about the same place? they are in brisbane and you're in sydney... anyway, they have the software that Sam (aka Dr Drift) uses and he'll be there tomorrow and the next day training the guys in using the software etc. They know how to tune cars already - they are well versed in the power FC, ecutek, and other aftermarket ECUs. they just have to learn the software anyway i'll let you know how i go cheers, Warren

my first question is naturally... did you have an alarm system? if you did, it would have been flashing a LED somewhere to deter the crimanls in the first place. then, when they smashed the window it would have gone off to give them a big fright and make them hurry off without the chance of getting at the stereo or anything out of direct vision you might be better spending your money on a decent alarm first OR if you had an alarm already... then man i feel for you. sometimes there's not much you can do but hope your not unlucky...

as said leave it at zero for the dyno operator to change... on my rb20det i made more power everywhere with +3 inlet and -5 exhaust settings (do a search i wrote it all in a thread somewhere) it basically shifted the power curve left so that at the same rpm i was making about 10% more power..

looks a little too vertex for my liking...

ttf is one of the greatest tyre/wheel stores around... those looks great mate, well done on the purchase pics asap!

thing is.. according to the dyno graph, it only runs lean up top, and by then its already made most of its power... so its power isn't really coming from the fact that its running lean... in other words, the rb20 is makign power for another reason. because its just in really good condition? possibly.. rb20 ftw!!!!!!!!!! where's Roy? he'll jump in here soon for some rb20 lovin

still available.. will SMS you tomorrow, as i'm waiting to hear back from someone else if they don't contact me by tomorrow morning then i'll SMS you and we'll take it from there

questioning what seems above average is human nature... of course if the person posts up a dyno graph for us to look at then i'd be happy to say well done and begin some great discussion as to the legend that the 'ol rb20 is i personally think it may have been misread to be kw when his graph was in hp

text means nothing without a printout.. ps was it rwkw or rwhp? most from WA talk in hp...

hey mate, glad you read my thread.. mine fit fine with no problems at all.. ie no modifications needed personally i think you'l be laughing the guy i bouight the wheels off had them on an s14 200sx with the car lowered very low.. he had no problems with fitting and he had the stock guards too... hope that helps!

"manual valve body" = stage 3 shift kit (from what mike at MV automatics has told me) this means that the gear stick controlls what gear you are in via 1-2-D-o/d and only changes when you change the position of the gearstick also, RSTME, as far as i was aware, the solenoids which are commonly changed to help with shifts, are part of the valve body, aren't they? and the most important question is also for RSTME: do you have any more info on this "black box" which supposedly allows you to run a powerFC? who makes it? what exactly does it do? thanks Warren