WazR32GTSt

let us know how it goes for everyone else on here with the same probems!

i've given up - going to buy them off ebay i think

there's nothign different otehr than a brand name go the just jap and with the extra 1000 you can get a FMIC and a boost controller

i have an R32 steering column that has the ignition barrell attached to it with its key - if you want to buy it i can separate the ignition barrell from the column PM me if you are interested

an exhaust is an exhaust - as long as it works i can't see any jsutification on paying a high price

i have tried changing many things from coils to plugs to filters etc also... R32's dont have leads

yeah but the engine will warm up with cold start maps or normal maps what does the cold start do that the normal map doesn't? richer? so in actual fact it makes the car warm up even slower? what else does it to? just saying "don't do it because it has to be there for a reason" is not good enough for me emmission control is there for a reason, but it is usually removed on cars when modified the stock ecu is always tuned for emmisson control remember

paper weight? anchor? missile for loud neighbours? you won't get much by selling it unfortunately...

anyone got any ideas?

just remember.. the R34 was made in the late 90s... its now 2006, so don't expect that nissan has been sitting on their hands for the past 10 years with regards to handling etc. i'm guessing its not just the engine output that has gone through the ceiling

how much did it cost you for the tune? (approx) i'm just thinking, bang-for-buck wise, that if i gained only 4rwkw and some smoothness, it would want to have cost less than $100 if i was going to drive down to the goldie and spend a day there, i would be expecting to come back with at least 15+rwkw... just my opinion though. after all i'm a student, so bang-for-buck is always at the front of my mind...

i have 2 numbers in the first post?? just leave me with #18 i think...

Can anyone tell me the function of the extra-rich cold start? i mean, my car idles crap and drives jerky (liek most r32's) when its cold, but is much better when its warm.. so i have been thinking... what if i wire up the coolant temp circuit so that it always thinks its 'hot' and always gives me a nice idle? is this bad for the engine in any way? this is what i got from the rb20 workshop manual: Cooltan temp sensor controls - timing - idle At cold temperatures (20deg), the sensor gives the followign readings - approx 3 volts - 2.5 k ohms At warm temperatures (80deg), the sensor gives - approx 1 volt - 0.3 k ohms So... if i get a resistor that is 0.3 k ohms, cut the temp sensor off, and wire this resistor into the circuit so that it always reads 0.3 k ohms, will this make the car think its always warm? or does it use the voltage more than resistance? cheers, Warren

have you done anything to the cooling systme recently? if you have not (ie haven't replaced the coolant or anything) then i would get it checked out by a mechanic from my experience, its a common symptom of a blown head gasket keep an eye on your water temp.. hope its not, but its something to think about Warren

how common is this? mine is fine.. looks like i have something to look forward to in the next few years

for flexible pipe... check out clark rubber - trust me you won't be dissappointed! i have a CAI setup with the stock airbox on my car - a pipe leading goign from the front of hte car into the airbox... i have put a funnel at the front end to maximise ram air cheers, Warren

my point is that the guy wanting to buy might not realise that the kms are fake i'm proving a point Justin. obviously you know what i am on about, but it might not be obvious to others

hte entire intake piping is only as big as its smallest component thus, if the standard throttle body is 70mm then that is the max you should bother going. Waz

Don't kid yourself, Quinny... NO car with 119,000kms should need an engine rebuild hell, even the stock timing belt would last that long.,. why would and engine need a rebuild after such a short amount of time the kms are so fake that its not funny. plus, something also has gone wrong with the engine most of hte cars you describe are in the exact same condition as the one in question

Drift Squad - PM me marduke - selling with the turbo, sorry

everything still for sale will post small items

well you have to ask yourself.. why does a car with 119,000 kms need an engine rebuild? any why would a dealer want to get rid of a GTR from their car yard but replace it with another car? they obviously want to get rid of it for some reason... it just doesn't add up options 1) the kms are fake 2) the car has been thrashed 3) the car has been raced 4) the car has been in an accident 5) all of the above my 2c cheers, Warren

ok mate.. remember these words before you read anything else - most on here drive manuals nad have never driven an auto skyline.. thus, they only have a preconceived idea that automatic skylines are shit without having driven one. obviously you know that's not the case, so be wary of what advice you wish to take as some posts will be opinions, while others will be opinions based on the fact that they drive/own an automatic skyline having said that, i drive an automatic r32, which has a similar (if not the same) gearbox to the r33 troubles i have had in the last 3.5 years? none how does it shift gears? it can flare on some gear changes but that also depends on the gearbox condition. it drives well for me and changes great 99% of the time its like anything mechanical - it will last a long and happy life if you service it properly (every 20,000kms) and use it as it were intended oh, btw, i have a transmission cooler attached to mine, and i believe it was a worthy investment at less than $100 from supercheap i have read of people running over 200rwkw in rb25 automatics without a hitch i personally run 155rwkw through my rb20 auto and it loves it good luck with the conversion, Warren.

cheers