WazR32GTSt

broke my drag racing virginity last night at Willowbank, QLD car: r32 gtst rb20det automatic 155rwkw time: 14.714 98mph 60' 2.503 The 2 things that were hurting me: takeoff with the auto and rb25 turbo was hard. stomped on accelerator and brake and pulled up handbrake, but couldn't build positive manifold pressure as it has an rb25 turbo that's slightly too big to get boost at that load i run out of power about 6000rpm as it gets too rich, so the auto changing at 7500rpm wasn't helping.. would ideally have changed at 6500rpm of there abouts any ideas to improve? I would have thought that with a 60' time of 2.2ish i could get mt ET down to 14.4ish with just that? cheers, Warren

the problem is trying to prove what happened, as everyone is going to have a different story unfortunately if that is the case, the person at the back will end up copping the blame for all 3 cars..

the same as how mine is setup

australian export $2 from supercheap

is the car warm? i don't know about hooking it off the coil pack, but with mine i take my coil out and attach one end of the timing gun to the coil and the other end to the spark plug it works fine on my rb20 automatic... hmmm confused

your AFM would have had a bad connection..., causing it to enter "limp home" mode, runnign the car very rich the running rich fouled your plugs When the connection was again fine, it didn't drive smooth due to the foulled plugs 3 options that i know of: - spray WD-40 onto plug to ensure its not just some moisture in the plug - take out the AFM and re-solder it.. to learn how, do a search for "+solder +AFM" - buy a replacement AFM its going to happen to us all eventually.. it happened to me about 2 months ago cheers, Warren

option 1

the only advantage of ethanol fuel is if it had an octane rating at higher tham 98 thus, optimax extreme has that avantage in that it's 100RON.. why put in 10% ethanol blend that's only the same octane as the 0% ethanol blend we get from shell/BP/mobil etc.? i don't see a point

Hey JetDat a mate of mine with a 300zx is thinking of getting some pending price how much is 2 front seats only in 2 tone? cheers, Warren

damn that's a decent tear Ska! playing footy? basketball? best of luck with it...

its nenver "normal" to get pinging that black smoke is NORMAL and is due to the stock ECU running quite rich it could be - problem with the timing - check the bast timing using a timing light - runnign too much boost - too rich (even mroe than stock) - spark plug problem - coil problem get it checked out by a mechanic on the dyno mate

good advice, azzura if you've already got an aftermarket wheel on there, leave it attached to the boss kit when trying to remove just removing the boss kit alone without any steering wheel will be next to impossible... unless you're superman?

colours and stitching design is according to the stock seat style - its supposed to look like the stock seat, but with the leather/vinal material instead of cloth the pictured seat is for a different car...

haha.. oops Shane, i thought you said the $100 wheels are not as good as momo wheels! edited my previous post!

yeah behind the boss... pull off your aftermarket wheel tyo reveal the boss pull off the boss (remove the large inner nut) and reveal 2 items 1 * horn plug with a wire that runs up to your horn 1 * hicas sensor that slides into the boss kit to be turned when the steering wheel turns

made from fibreglass? or somethign else?

there's a sensor on the steerign column that is moved when the steering wheel is moved.. so hicas knows where you're turning the steerign wheel and can assist you appropriately by turning the rear wheels in the correct direction

boss kits for skylines already have the plate on the back of them to move the hicas sensor i have never seen a plug either, Mud...

194rwkw's = engine mods have been done you've probalby got an aftermarket exhaust/FMIC/boost controller in there already i would consider a full service yourself and consider changing the timing belt unless you can be 100% certain that its already been done recently. The do change fluids and the like t compliance but this is the law - don't expect them to put more than the cheapest oil in the car. there is a wealth of information on these forums. Use the search tool and you will find so much info that it's not funny also, there is an official club that QLD owners can join fior cruises, drag days, etc. See the link at the top of the QLD section happy skylining! Warren

changing the steering wheel is something you can do yourself, with usually a ratchet and screwdriver What the difference between cheap and expensive wheels? usually, just a brand name. I bought a $100 wheen new from ebay - its leather and alloy and built strong. no, it doesn't have a brand name, but who cares? see attached pic... what's a boss kit? well its basically a piece of metal that, on one end, bolts to your particular model of car. on the other end, it has a series of holes that bolt up to almost any aftermarket steering wheel. So you need on specific for your car, but any universal steering wheel will work In summary: buy a cheap ebay wheel if its new from an ebay store and you will have no problems at all! my wheel: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...me=STRK:MEWN:IT

i have never heard of a mechanic saying "it can't be done" what we generally recommend is this: - nissan made non-turbo and turbo versions of the skyline - they differed not only in the turbo, but in many other areas too: brakes etc. - how much will it cost to change to a turbo configurastion? consider turbo, manifold, ecu, loom, dash. then, you still are missing things like brakes, hicas, lsd that the turbo model has standard - is it worth the cost, or simlpy easier to sell your NA nad buy a turbo model that has it all as stock? I has an NA supra (MA70) and considered doing a turbo addition. Then i considered an engine swap. It ended up being the easiest to sell it and buy a turbo car. Thus, my R32 turbo.

based on what you want to get, i would suggest this order: turbo-back exhaust - you forgot this, and would be the first thing i'd change. Get a high-flow cat and 3"dump/front pipe from BATMBL in the business section of the for sale section. Les than $500 for the 2 items, and would complete your exhaust front mount cooler - see business section for JustJap kits for less than $500 delivered boost controller - turbotech controller is less than $40 and well wroth the money - again, see business section of the for sale section fuel pump - walbro is a direct replacement for stock and a good idea upgraded turbo - not needed initially. Do the above mods, and consider it later if you still want more power ecu - do this last of all, otherwise you have to get it re-tuned after each modification! Not needed unless chasing serious power or change to quite a large aftermarket turbo: injectors Not needed at all: bov - the car has one stock Good luck, adn remember to do a search for all the info you need cheers, Warren

1992 R32GTSt with rb20det at 140,000kms 4sp automatic 170.4rwkw @ 13psi mods: - rb25 turbo (series 2 with nylon compressor) - HKS cam gears: inlet and exhaust - walbro fuel pump - 3" split dump/front - 3" high-flow cat - 3" cat-back - boost controller 14psi - high-flow air filter in stock airbox - rb26 cams - some kind of chipped ecu, not sure exactly what has been changed - this was done before any of hte mods - FMIC with custom piping - auto tans cooler - 2800rpm high-stall (MV automatics) - stage 2 shift kit (MV automatics) Dyno graph below

once legal preceedigns have finished...

that is a terrible experience mate.. Look, i agree with the other that have said to pursue the legalities of what they have done. and challenge it in court. You might feel like one insignificant person against an army, but seriously we have to make a stand - lets make it start here! if you can challenge it and win, call a current affair and get it out there on the airplay. Make people see how we are treated Its discrimination - and last time i checked that's ethically and morally wrong