WazR32GTSt

i need the following items: - cap that goes on the radiator overflow bottle (small yellow screw cap) - CAS from R32 GTSt if anyone can help me out, please PM or post here cheers, Warren

am pretty angry with myself tonight.. was driving into the garage (its a very tight space...) and was pissed off that there was broken glass on the ground that i drove over.. wasn';t even thinking of hte tight space of the garage long story short - i scraped about a 1m scratch into the LHS of the car add to this that i have been keyed on the RHS of the car last year, and that a bird poo that festered on my bonnet for 2 weeks last year when i was on holiday, and my car really needs a new lick of paint - it doesn't need any panel work, simply a new coat of the stock colour and a coat of clear and this is not a show car - its my daily driver and thus it doesn't nees to be show condition from my searches, a paint job of just the exterior in the stock colour has given me a price range that i know i should be thinking of but i really need someone on the inside that either - works for a painter - has a mate that's a painter this needs to be in brisbane also SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT! all i can offer in return is free medical advice on any issues they have thanks in advance, Warren

graph has been uploaded finally! not that this was done in 2nd gear as it is an automaticand that the intake temp is close to air temp which means the results are realistic (i find that the more the intake temp is above the air temp, the higher the dyno figure is, with about 1deg = 1rwkw)

all looks good up to when the power plateau's at about 140km/h.. most graphs i see the car peaks and then drops off rather than plateauing not sure why that happens but its been plotted in shootout mode, and the intake temp is the same as the air temp, so the figure is quite realistic in my opinion

is it laggy? i can't feel any loss in low-rpm power. not that it had much to begin with, though definately has power up to 4000rpm.. haven't done a big tester yet so can't say where i hit full boost etc. actually, on the rb20 turbo, it felt as though it would spool up early, but still wouldn't get moving until it had reached full boost now, it is ever so fractionally later in spooling, but gets moving as the boost rises so it actually feels the same, if not better in the low-to-mid region yeah, drag strip will be on the cards. a mid-14 should be achievable i think/i hope. i think i'll wait for the SAU-QLD drag day in a few months

i wasn't there for the tuning, as i had uni to go to they did, however do that. that's why the cam gears are set up as they are, because it made an improvement. otherwise they would be left at zero you'll see when i can get the graph up, its like the graph has been shifted left. i think this was the gears the mechanic actually said that they came out really good and was very happy with the upgrades i had chosen. he said they worked well together..

123456... i had quite a relevant piece of information for you, but due to your intolerability to other's advice i shall withold it you ask for help then dismiss what you are given? why even bother signing up and asking for help?

Picture of the dyno graph is attached red line = rb25 turbo, 11psi, stock fuel pump blue line = as above, but with walbro fuel pump / 13psi / gears adjusted

after a dormant year of mods, have finally done something extra to the ol rb20.. car: 1992 R32 GTSt automatic with 140,000kms previous mods: - 3" dump/front - 2.5" gutted cat - 3" cat-back - boost controller 12psi (made same power at 14psi) - high-flow air filter in stock airbox - rb26 cams - some kind of chipped ecu, not sure exactly what has been changed - FMIC with custom piping - auto tans cooler This setup made 132rwkw with 14psi and fairly advanced timing... keep in mind this is an automatic car new mods: - rb25 turbo (series 2 with nylon compressor) - HKS cam gears: inlet and exhaust - walbro fuel pump - 3" high-flow cat (note: went from gutted cat to normal cat, so this would have actually robbed some power...) the narrative: For the new mods, i Visited the great team at Mercury Motorsport in Newmarket, Brisbane for the installation and tune. They installed the rb25 turbo and cam gers, and set them at 0 and 0. The first dyno run was in this state and made 133rwkw with 11psi but was leaning out with AFRs approaching 14. this is when the fuel pump went in... The next dyno runs were to adust the cam gears and turn the boost up. ended up having 14psi with normal timing and made 154.8rwkw (see attached dyno sheet) In its final state, the cam gears were set at: inlet --> +3 exhaust --> -5 as you can see by the dyno graphs, it made a huge improvement than over the standard confiuration. I asked them to set it up for low-to-mid improvement rather than top-end power, which they did. How it feels to drive: Down low, is exactly as before with no noticable difference in lag at all. I was quite surprised actually and i put it down to the cam gears bringing boost on earlier and the added mid-range torque. Up top, it pulls very hard compared to before, and all the way to redline overall summary: 1. making 155rwkw with rb20 automatic 2. very happy with the way the car drives and the increase in power 3. recommend cam gears to anyone that is thinking of this as a future modification Am open to any advice, comments, or suggestions that anyone might have cheers, Warren

i don't have a timing light, having moved out of home where all the tools are... so i plugged my computer up and checked the timing using nissan datascan it came up as 13deg BTDC. i just had cam gears installed and tuned today, so wanted to check that they re-set the timing in the process.. is this a suitable way to check timing, or will the value that i am getting from the datascan be different because of the adjusted cam timing? do i need an actual timing light to check the timing now? cheers, Warren

yeah but if you have been driving, and it has already generated heat, then come to a stop... heat is still in the fluid. its not going to get any cooler while the car is sitting there...

really like the idea of the metal surrounds will assess funds and get back to you

it might be the SAU stickers on the side that upped the boost i've heard of people getting up to 1psi per sticker...

final update... picked up the finished car today: - rb25 turbo - HKS cam gears - fuel pump - dyno tune old setup (minus the above) with 13psi and timing set to about 25deg BTDC made 132rwkw new setup with cam gears at 0 and 0, with 11psi, and timing at 15deg BTDC made 133rwkw new setup with cam gears tuned (intake +3, exhaust -5), with 13psi, and timing at 17deg BTDC made 154.8rwkw! the most power came in the midrange too! will post a graph as soon as i scan it

yeah but my problem is that sometimes these things sound good in my head, but don't make any difference in real life...

so i have an r32gtst with an automatic transmission (and yes, i like it like that) about 2 years ago, my brain saw a light bulb and decided to make me fit a large trans cooler which i purchased cheaply from supercheap. it has never given me a problem and works well, and you can feel the warmth coming throug the cooler when you touch it after driving BUT... instead of mounting the trans cooler in front of the radiator like it said, i decided to mount if in the front bumper on the drivers side, so its like a mirrored location of the stock intercooler. i cut a hole in the guard behind the trans cooler, and made some ducting so that air flows through the cooler, rather than around it. recently, whilst pondering the damaging effects of a car sitting in traffic in the brisbane summer heat, i decided to make a switch that is in the dash that is connected to my electric aircon fan. when in traffic (or after a hard drive) i turn it on to get some extra airflow through the radiator. it makes a huge difference and i can feel the hot air from the drivers window if i place my hand out. so it got me thinking (yeah, it hurts)... what if i mount a mini thermo fan onto the auto trans cooler, and wire it up in parallel with the aircon fan, so that when i flick the switch, the transmission is also cooled in those stressful traffic situations? I did some ebaying (is that a word?) and found some 7" thermo fans that were pretty cheap.. is this going to make any difference at all, or am i barking up the wrong tree here? any automatic guru's out there that want to shed some light? thanking you kindly, Warren

i have an auto r32 and it revs right out out to 7500rpm... i do have a large trans cooler fitted though.. not sure why that's happening maybe something is worn? what happens if you change gears yourself via the shifter? does it hold the gear then? what if you press the power button?

mine's an apexi model and fits in the ashtray its the perfect spot as no one should ever be smoking in the car anyway, thus its useless space!

well its sad, but you certainly have you priorities in order so getting a cheap R31 as the runabout car then?

congrats on teh purchase! - firstly give it a service: oil, oil filter, coolant, spark plugs, fuel filter, oxygen sensor - then, put it on the dyno for an hour and get the tuner to see how healthy the engine is. they can also play around with your timing to get the most out of what you have got. plus you will get a power figure to see what the car is making What are coil packs you ask? they are coils within a little plastic pack that sit over the spark plugs. there's one over each spark plug. they generate a signal when instructed to do so, and pass this to the spark plug which creates a spark to ignite the fuel. Will putting bigger coils generate more power? Well it will generate a bigger spark, but this probably won't equate into much more power unfortunately if you want to play around with the car a little more, i would suggest thinging of some of the following: - front-mount intercooler ($300) and piping ($400) - boost controller ($50) set to about 12psi (any more then 14psi can cause the turbo to fail) That will give you a nice jump in power. they generally say 1psi raises power by 10kw when in the right setting (ie already have exhaust and intercooler) good luck! Warren.

if it were you selling the rb26 cams, then this would be some great advertising for you, wouldn't it?

you posted the same thread twice? i amswered you in the otehr thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=114806

technically, overdirve is any gear with a ratio of less than 1:1 (i think).. but its easier to think of overdrive as a 4th gear... in an automatic car, the overdrive will engage when the car is cruising at speeds above 50-60km/h so, on acceleration, it doesn't matter if the overdrive is in or not, because it won't be engaged what does the power button do? it makes the car change gears at redline instead of just below redline. on hard acceleration, the power system self-engages (because the gearbox is smart). So, no actual effect on power, but a positive effect on acceleration as it allows the car to rev higher thus make power for longer the only other thing is the hold button. i rarely use it. when stationary and pressed, you take off in 2nd gear. when in drive, it holds the gear you are in until its turned off. useful? probably not... cheers, Warren

look... not everyone can be smart or a good driver if everyone was schuey then schuey would just be average the dumb people out there are what makes us 'good'. they make us smart. if it weren't for them we would all be the same! think about it...

you don't have eyes? you have so much top-end torque that your tacho moves so fast you can't see it near redline? seriously.. they're a wank unless you're a drag racer but that's just my opinion, which is exactly what you asked for.