WazR32GTSt

picture T-rex - big but with tiny arms... no seriously, it would just make it more comfortable for steering. obviously i have been fine for hte last 3 years i have had the car, but am always thinking of how i can make it that little bit better

cheers, best use PM in case i don't see this thread

mate, you are a top bloke you know that i was so dissappointed that i couldn't get it to work before...

yeah i think its just the nature of the stock turbo... awesome down low, not-so-awesome up top

yeah i think they are one ofthe many factory options but its quite rare... why its not working? i have no idea.. just wanted to say that it is a turbo timer so keep up the search for some answers...

hey mate, well i have your program working on my laptop now (can't get datascan to work properly...) its an awesome program i take my PDA everywhere as its a phone/diary/resource (i use it to store all the resource data i need for uni), so it would be quite handy if i could work it on my pda ...but having a full-time pda in the car would never be something i would do as my car isn't hardcore enough for that.. sadly, i have abandoned the idea

ok i did it today, and the steering wheel came off easily My problem now is that the rod that the steering wheel bolts onto was shorter than i was expecting. Has anyone been able to modify their steering wheel to enable it to stick out further? A couple of cm difference would be all that i need... cheers, Warren

already tried adjustign the column ages ago... thanks everyone for your advice. will try to remove it today adn see how i go.. cheers, Warren

yeah there is a supercheap at indro, but looking for an autobarn as they have more gear shift knobs from memory...

but Ash said "you should make the same boost in all gears"...

i have similar experiences but not as low in first couple of gears, more just 1 or 2 psi difference: in my R32 i find that i get slightly more boost in 3rd at 2500rpm accelerating than i do flat out in 1st at about 4000rpm i just thought it was related to load?

yeah as mentioned its been a victim of "badge engineering" - Mitsubishi GTO - Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Dodge stealth and i think another name also...

make sure you go for the TT version... from memory the NA version was front-wheel drive only! which makes me think that their all-wheel drive system was developed around an existing front-drive layout. Is it 50-50 split front to rear?

i'm in New Farm, and was looking for some kind of autobarn/repco/similar store that was nearby... i want to look for aftermarker gear knobs for automatic cars, to see what is out there... can someone help me out with some nearby stores? thanks in advance, Warren

thanks mate i don't have a new steering wheel to attach, i jsut want to see how easy it would be to extend teh steering wheel out further as i am a tall barstard and it hits my knees when i turn corners

mate... you don't need a finance company, you need a financial adviser... why? to tell you that you shouldn't be oweing that much money at your age. if you can't afford it, then you shouldn't be buying it what happend if you blow an engine tomorrow? can you afford replacement front end if you crash? can you afford the appropriate insurance? what do your parents think of this? i know this is not what you want to hear, and you probably reply to me saying "get lost you tool", but seriously you need someone to sit down and have a long chat with you about finances...

i would have to say, in my opinion, these are one of the best looking car to come otu of japan saying that, i've heard they can give problems and are expensive when coming to repair... i say go for it, and you will have s.e.x on wheels!

mate... an atuomatic turbo car differs from the manual in that it has an automatic transmission THE ENGINE IS THE SAME so, yes, they have a bov and it makes the same sound under the same condition that a manual does.. as rezz said, this is not during gear changes as you don't take your foot off the accelerator when changing gears, but whatever makes the manual car release the bov is the same in the auto i hate the misconception that automatic skylines have all these differences just because they have an automatic box hooked up instead of a manual...

I have done a search, but it seemed to give almost every thread a result for my search, so i came up with nothing after searching through like 30 pages of threads Has anyone removed their steering wheel before on an R32? Can someone give me some idea as to where to start and what to do? cheers, Warren

ok i re-soldered it this afternon, plugged it back in, and it starts.. which is the first plus - that i didn't stuff anything else up now to give it a test drive.. will post the results of how i go tomorrow might also write a little "how-to" document as i took a couple of pics as i was going.. cheers, Warren

thanks heaps for your help guys i only have moderate soldering experience, but want to give this a go tomorrow... off to buy a fine-tipped soldering iron! (and some solder) cheers, Warren

ahhh so its a textbook problem... great i have a high-flow panel filter in the sotck airbox actually how much new from nissan?

my first post described the initial problem i was having... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=111605 so basically for no reason the car would almost stall (or actually stall) and then when it was re-started would idle about 2000rpm and then bounce between 1000 and 2000rpm... It sort of sounds like "limp-home mode" then if i wait about 1-5min or if i shut it off and start it again soon, it would go back to normal. I tried resetting the ECU and then cleaning my AFM yesterday, but the problem happened again today, so its not simply a 'dirty AFM' BUT... this time it happened, i had my laptop (with nissan datacscan) with me! i plugged it in (but could not display the values for some reason?). i could, however, do a diagnostics test. It came up with AFM faulty SO MY QUESTION IS THIS: given people's ast experiences with AFMs, and that this problem seems to be intermittant rather than full time, is it likely to be a) faulty AFM - has it happened before like this? b) break in wire to AFM - thus ECU sees no signal c) faulty ECU - somehow shorted the AFM circiut on the ecu board.. unlikely, as the problem is intermittant And, if its the AFM unit itself, can i get a new one from nissan, and if so how much? or am i best to find a second hand one and hoping for a fully working unit? I'm personally thinking its a dodgy solder in the AFM which has come loose, and causing it to intermittantly fail i would really like some help here guys, as my car isn't driveable until this is fixed cheers in advance, Warren.

price drop to $50 this item is BRAND NEW guys, and a bargain for those inexperienced in ADSL...

it revs funny in neutral too, so i'm guessing not an automatic problem will try an ECU reset and AFM celan tomorrow and psot the results would appreciate some more suggestions in the mean time though