WazR32GTSt

does it come with the original shell around the pipe? or is it just an obvious straight pipe? what state are you in?

so i'm driving along yesterday.. sitting at about 40km/h as there is some traffic and i go to slowly accelerate... the revs suddenly drop so, i tap the accelerator and they drop again... funny thin isthat when i get off the accelerator, the revs rise. Hapened for about 3 or 4 sec, then went back to normal so i'm driving along about 10mins later, almost home, and the revs start to jump between 1000 and 2000rpm when i am stopped at the lights. i have to stomp on the brake to hold the car still.. then i again have the same problem with the revs dropping I am thinking this is either a dirty AFM or an AFM that's on its way out... does anyone have some advice as to the problem? cheers, Warren PS this is on an rb20det

...and you doubted predator! the whole point of the site is to share our exprtise with others.. if someone takes the time to write a tutorial (especially someone like predator) then they usually know what's going on glad its all sorted and hope you get a good power increase!

when i did my wipers i used touch up paint in the same colour as my car I humg them in the garage from a piece of string and laid down newspaper for any overspray. then i gave them about 5 or 6 coats of paint... really ut that shit on there. its now been about a year and no sign of fading or cracking JD_33 - trust me you will be kicking yourself when you see how easy they come off.. i only say this as i was in the same situation, swearing etc. and my dad walked outside and took them off in one second!

and HOLD the wiper horizontal as you take it off...

not sure what you are saying, but the boost gauge is not connected to the ECU.. if that's what you are trying to say

i have no idea of the guide or instalation, but i can tell you that the symptoms you describe sound like an AFM that is not connected so when you saw that you re-connected it, it sounds to me that its not connected at all.. Waz.

you suckers! stop pulling them so hard!!! to take them off: - undo the nut that holds them - press down on the join in the wiper closest to the nut .. you will find that the spring gives way and you can hold the wiper horizontal - take the wiper off with ease cheers, Warren

i don't like leather chamois' I prefer the more spongy type.. i think mine is caled "plas chamois" it was pretty cheap and soaks up way better than my brother's leather one

can you elaborate more specificailly on "my stock boost gauge go only over the "0" a little bit" its a little vague.. if you have 7psi all the time, then the gauge should travel up to 3.5 on the gauge, which in my opinion IS only a little bit above zero...

4.2L oil from memory spark plugs: BCPR6ES-11 (1.1mm) or BCPR6ES (0.8mm) you can get 1.1mm gap if you are running around stock boost if you are running 12psi+ go for the BCPR6ES the are NGK coppers good luck with the service

well i was being a bit definate there wasn't i.. he he what i meant to say is that changing to an afermarket bov is NOT going to fix the problem the problem is that air that has been accountered for is being lost Putting another device that loses air will simply return the same problem the only way to fix it is to either: - put a re-circulating bov on the car (stock or aftermarket) - use a decive that accounts for the lost air, thus keeping the AFR in equilibrium Waz

Looking to buy 2 items: 1) the "elbow pipe" that is the first little bit of pipe that bolts on the the compressor outlet of the rb25 turbo Need it for my rb20-->rb25 turbo conversion 2) after a 3" cat (second hand) If anyone can help me out, please leave a message here, or even better, send a PM! cheers, Warren

can of degreaser + water when you start the car in the morning, condenation builds up anyway.. so water isn't going to be too big of an issue just make sure it dries fully (ie place n the sun to dry)

well its got bonnet clips and clips that hold the boot down so was it raced, or just someone who liked people to think they were a racer? with the number of mods it has i would be VERY surprised if those kms were real... if the car is in good condition, and you like it, then go for it and of course its an R32 so its better than an R33

that's normal if the car is in good condition... do you really expect a 13yo car to have less than 150,000kms on the clock??

WRONG if you want to get the stock bov working without hte plumback, the solution is not an aftermarket bov, but an aftermarket ecu...

Oops... forgot to say... it comes with D-link inline filter so that you can use your phone when running ADSL!

below is what the modem looks like (yes, it's tiny!) actual size is about 10cm * 5cm * 2cm

D-Link DSL-200 ADSL modem BRAND NEW in box with original shrink-wrapping I bought the modem, then my parents gave me another thinking it was a good house-warming present! So i have 2 of the same thing! They have no idea, and i can't tell them or it'll break their heart... So i know its not morally right to sell it, but its best for everyone... It is a great modem as it minimises the need for many wires, as it plugs into your USB port, taking power from there! No need to add another power plug to the millions already behind the computer. It connects easily: wall --> RJ-11 cord --> modem --> USB cord --> computer! All items needed are supplied! Features: - Works on Desktop or Laptop computers! - Easy to connect via USB (compliant with USB 1.1) - Fast 8Mbps downlaod speed, 1Mbps upstream rate - Rate-adaptive ADSL technology - Works with major ISPs including Telstra - Auto-install with CD drivers included: works with PPPoE, PPPoA, and RFC1483 Package contents: - Modem - USB cable - RJ-11 cable - Installation CD Works on windows OR Mac OS Price: $50, including postage Item is located in New Farm, Brisbane, and pickup can be arranged Call me on 0413 555 417 or PM or leave a message here for more information Pics coming soon... have to download them from my camera cheers, Warren PS check out my trader rating and you will find that i am legit --> Click here

wondering about a 3" piece of pipe, say in a cat or exhaust... is 3" the internal pipe diameter or the diameter of the outside of the pipe? i thought GTR cats were 3", but went to look at one today to find the internal diameter was just over 2.5" around the pipe that attaches to the flanges... i immediately thought this was too small for my 3" exhaust... but then i thought maybe this was normal as the outside of the pipe was the 3" diameter, and the insideis just that little bit smaller? cheers, Warren

when i first put my rb20 on the dyno, it only made 106rwkw.. it drove fine so i thought nothing of it then i found out that the timing belt was on tooth out on the intake side! the CAS (thing on the front of the engine that controls timing) had been wound around fully to compensate, so the car drove ok and i never knew until i played around with the timing.. it pinged when the CAS was set to the centre... if a memchanic checks the timing he could identify this straight away (hopefully).. of course, this may not be your problem, i am just sharing my experience in the faint hope that it might account for your lack of power cheers, Warren

when you say 11.4% you mean the air to fuel ratio is 11.4 BUT... that is NOT the reason you are making only 104rwkw i have an rb20det and with 10.5 AFR make 132rwkw. that is much more rich than you and more power also i'd be looking at other reasons for your loww in power.. have you checked the timing? cheers, Warren.

whats the inside size of the factory cat? can you please measure it? if its 3" then extremely interested - i'm in new farm so can come and pick it up off you where in northside are you located?

i have used optimax extreme for about a month now, and my baby loves it