«Cyph3r»

More pics to show the minor bits knicks on the wheels from tyre fitting and wheel alignment tool. Wheels are now off my car ready for buyer.

Bump! Taking the wheels off the car this weekend so hopefully can get some decent pics for all of those that are interested. Reason for changing wheels is that I want to run something a little lighter (17's) and that I can run a full tire on without having to touch my guards or run anymore camber.

[QLD] FS 18x9.5+12 x4 Black Volk TE37s (Genuine) Hi All, My new wheels have arrived at customs in Sydney so I've decided that the TE's are now for sale. Rims were originally anodized bronze and have been repainted black. They have been used for about 2000km's since being refinished. Few little marks on the paint from tire fitting but absolutely no guttering or dings. I still have some of the original rays stickers from the barrels but anyone that knows me or has read my threads on here would know I don't buy fake shit. Come with brand new black alloy Project Kics valves fitted and 3 of the original Rays valves in black. Also have 4 brand new unopened Rays TE37 sticker kits in blue which I haven't fitted as I may keep the wheels and color change if I can't get a decent price for them. Falken FK452 225/40/ZR18 tyres have been fitted all round and are still probably around 95%. They've also only done around 2000kms. I've posted up pics of them fitted on my S14 but if any serious buyers want detailed pics I can arrange this on the weekend. Import monster has a bare set of these in bronze with some of the stickers missing and a few marks through the anodizing on the lips for $3000 and I have seen other bare sets privately for sale in used condition for $2500 (Even some sets of 17s in same width and offsets) My set includes: Brand new Genuine Rays TE37 sticker kits x 4 still in packet which cost me $100 Project Kics new black aluminium valves fitted which cost around another $100 3x original black aluminium Rays valves (one has been misplaced) Near new Falken FK452 225/40ZR18 fitted all round (top of the range Falken road tyre) which cost me $1000 fitted and balanced. Price is $3000 pickup from Brisbane or Sunshine Coast in QLD. Transport may be arranged at buyers expense if I don't have a local buyer. If you want any more photos please PM me or post here. I'll give out my phone number to serious buyers once they have PM'd/posted.

Hi David, Thanks for your comments. I originally bought the amps from MEA however I haven't been on there for a while. Might be worth getting back on there to advertise this gear you think? It is really nice gear and I would be happy to keep hold of it in case one day I get a nice daily worth installing it into however it's going to waste sitting in my wardrobe! Thanks Jamie

Due to the realisation that I'll probably never get around to using this gear now I am going to put it all up for sale. Beautiful looking amps and really look quite classy in a good install when lit up. All gear is located on Sunshine Coast in QLD. I have very poor mobile phone reception at home and work long hours (5am to 9pm) so please express interest via pm or replies here. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First item is an Audison VRx 2.150.EX Amplifier Last one of these I saw for sale was for offers over $1000. The new LR.x stereo amplifiers are over $1000 new and nowhere near as nice sounding or looking as these special edition VRx amps. I think the 2 channel was in the vicinity of $2000 new. Here are some pictures to tell the rest of the story. Full specs can be seen in photo from manual below. Hard to say what these are worth due to the rarity of seeing them up for sale but would take $700 plus post or if you have seen another for sale in similar condition with the same bits and pieces in australia for cheaper and can send me a link I may entertain an offer closer to that price. At this price it includes the ACB (class A) module which gives a nicer sound but makes the amp run warmer, as well as the other HL24 module pictured. Comes in original box as pictured complete with manual, gloves, all documentation etc. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- VRx 1.500.EX Comes with cooling fan addon modules which I have rarely seen for sale. Perfect for running big subs. Can do 2000WRMS at 1ohm stable no trouble at all (see photo from manual below) Paid over $1000 for this second hand which was a bargain given the new price and quality of these amps. Will take $700 plus post for this complete with the cooling fan kit or willing to entertain offers if you can show me where one has sold with same parts and similar condition for less. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Treo SSX 12" Sub I did a heap of research before pulling the trigger on the purchase of this sub. Was throwing up between this and an Image Dynamics at the time and ended up going with the Treo. I have only used for probably not even an hour since buying this new from FHRX. I don't think it would even be burnt in yet. Is a hefty sub and probably the heaviest and most solidly built 12" sub I have ever picked up. Will handle 2000WRMS with ease. Ran this at 1 ohm off the VRx 1.500.EX for about a week before changing plans and pulling all the audio out of my S15 and stripping it for the track. Very difficult to find second hand let alone in mint condition like this example. Paid $1100 new. Asking $600 plus post otherwise I'll probably just keep it as a very effective paperweight ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Last item is 2 x 1F Brax Capacitors One is in the original timber box with manual, other is by itself. Will take $200 for the pair posted or reasonable offers.

From what I am lead to believe the cars have to retain basically the same suspension setup they come from the factory with. The Falcon utes still come from factory with a live rear end so I don't think they would have the option to change to an IRS setup. I don't think the live rear end would be much of a disadvantage anyhow, they had a ton of adjustability built into that thing!

Guys, before you possibly ruin someones for sale thread you could at least search google images and you'd see that not all genuine TE37's have stampings or raised lettering around the outside of the rim. If you thought about it, you'd realise the tooling has changed over the years and so has the markings. Mine have no marking on the front of the rim, only on the rear and they are definitely genuine.

Myself and about 10 of my friends all get our cars tuned at Matty Spry at PITS. Never had a drama and cars always drive a lot better than they did before. Another mate has had his RB26/30 tuned by Mark Jacobsen at Godzilla Motorsport and he did a good job also considering the car spends a lot of it's life near or on limiter and never had an issue until it spun a bearing. Going back there once it's rebuilt too for another tune. He runs a Vi-PEC which is Mark's preferred ECU as I understand. GT Auto Garage has also been highly recommended to me by several people I know that are customers of theirs. I have a HKS F-CON V I have been thinking about running in my current car and they are the only place in QLD that can tune these and seem to have very good results with them. They are basically the only 3 places I would consider in QLD.

Wouldn't happen to be the sr20vet powered one Murray Coote is involved with?

Thanks for the advice Mitch, I've checked out that waxit site, looks like a lot of good stuff on there. By the sounds of the polished though it looks like I will need to use a buff to get the best results. I'll just practice on my daily beater I guess until I get it down pat. Is the Bowdens own product range any easier to work with now than a few years back. I used some of their gear about 5 years ago (possibly longer) and found it very difficult to work with and hard to get a good result with.

I'm sure as well as getting the best possible laptimes out of the car with such a highly experienced driver the feedback you should get to help with setup would be invaluable. No offence to Mark intended of course. Will Murray be working with you guys at Superlap to help with any suspension changes should they be required? Good luck for the weekend, even if you don't get into the mid or low 1.30s you've still done well to get there this year!

Listen to this guy, you're making yourself sound stupid. First you claim 350+ km/hr then it's 250km/hr. 250km/hr is no where near 400 and you obviously have no or very little understanding of physics. 400km/hr will never be "easy" to reach as you claim. Lastly, if you, or your friends are going to drive like an idiot and speed dangerously on public roads, don't tell people about it, I'm sure the forum and other members don't want to be associated with this kind of behavior.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that the Power FC has no knock control whatsoever. I'd stay with the Autronic, Power FC's work but they are nothing flash, no options for alternate maps, no fully customisable outputs etc

Hi guys, Have had a quick read through some of the thread and am looking for a bit of advice on products to use. I am currently using all Meguiars products and the car comes up looking fantastic after a clean but I think this is mainly due to the previous owners work and the fact it always has a decent coat of wax over the paint. The paint has been clayed every 6 months or so and seems to be very smooth and free of contaminates but has quite a few swirls and scratches that are noticeable under UV light or from the right angles. The car is black in color and isn't used very often but I have a crusher dust driveway so try to keep on top of the detailing. I have read good things about the Final Inspection brand products and was thinking about trying some of their medium and fine polishes. Now I only hand detail the car so are these treatments suitable to apply by hand or do I need to use a random orbital buff to get decent results? Also anyone had experience with their sealers? Also are there any other products people would recommend over the Final Inspection ones? Basically looking at getting: Shampoo Polish/Paint Cleaner/Scratch Remover (must be suitable for hand application) Wax/Sealer

Sounds like they have their hand on it to be honest. There's a lot more to reaching 400kph than power and gear ratios.

Hi Joe, If your future power goals are 300rwkw this will be able to be attained with out even needing to port the rb25 head. The main advantage with the RB26 head is the solid lifter setup allowing for higher revs than the RB25 cylinder head which uses a hydraulic lifter arrangement. 300rwkw is a pretty common power figure from RB25DET setups these days and isn't an overly difficult goal to reach. Just have a read through the Forced Induction section, particularly the RB25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results thread which can give you some ideas of how different combinations have performed. Good place to start would be an electronic boost controller, some 740cc injectors (can use later for 300rwkw), fuel pump, z32 air flow meter if not changing to map sensor and an ecu. Nistunes can't really be beat for the money if you have a good local tuner that can use them.

Unless you have huge plans for the car a 26 head is honestly not a good starting point and you would just be throwing money away. I'd recommend having a read through the forced induction section of the forums. There are plenty of threads in there with good advice on what mods will give you the best power for dollar increases. If you are starting with a completely standard car however, I'd suggest looking at improving things in the handling department and removing unnecessary weight if that's an option for you before adding power. Don't cheap out on tires either, if you can't get the power to the ground efficiently you are just wasting money. If you can give people a few more details on what the car has done currently and what your goals are and budget you will probably get a lot more helpful advice.

60,000 Euro would be getting closer to the mark. This just reminded me how attractive the women were over there.... sigh

Is their much of a change in piston area with the Endless calipers over the factory Brembos?

Wow, that's very impressive! Any rumors on peak power or what it will rev to?

Marks 35 looked pretty quick around clubman this morning, was catching hennigs porsche cup car pretty quickly. Shame Drews racecar wasn't out, are you guys still waiting on carbon body panels? Also no sign of almost half the group A cars??

Might see if I can get the morning off to come out for a look. Sounds like it will be the best day to spectate at QR with a lot of cars testing for WTAC.

The Ferrari gearboxes are still very disappointing, not even on par with the DSG boxes in the Evo X. We took some F430s and a 458 up the mountains on a recent trip to Italy and were shocked at how clunky and slow the boxes are.

Just stumbled across that and was about to post myself. Actually thought you might have somehow managed to get him as a driver when you hinted someone small and that had a bit of time driving at eastern creek. Should be good to watch, that's for sure!