Chris Rogers

tom, great idea, poor execution. the later ones run CAN and pulling that board WILL SHUT THE CAR DOWN. tapping the wrong wire will kill something or a CAN module. the TV tuner is simple cracking that module open is another matter.

amen to that. too many hacks make way too much of a mess of things. great for me , I get to fix them, bad for the customer as they still shop on price and know no different. one that really spring to mind are the dealer fitted and manufacturer fitted (locally) alarms. the brant (nee subaru now) items I can find and remove in about 3-4 minutes due to the way they are done. they stop some people but not all. same goes with these cars (V35.) reason that you may have ended up with a key (for unlock) and a remote is they simply did not understand the car. these cars run one module that controls the ENTIRE car. fry it and it gets VERY expensive very quickly. some of the jobs I have seen from shops with ADR alarms shock me. (see below.) click this: look at the 350Z and the R33. both are shops. http://www.audioexpress.com.au/shop/HOS/ (still not finished with the pages so its a bit buggy )

then 1.5mm will do fine. I've just ordered my PC as well so keep an eye out.

yet to prove that. though the units are not etirely the same and I seriously doubt any of you wish to spend $3k on the box to find out I'm working on a few things I'll explain once I'm done.

I would go to 1.5mm that would be enough. in comparision ot the OE radio is this unit heavier?

copy the OE bracket and use the lower holes as mounting points. only real way to do it.

removal of the unit is easy- splitting it from the main unit is a bitch. splitting the CD and tape mechs is worse again. what is broke is inside the CD mech and the whole lot has to be stripped. its not one for the faint hearted and best left to a tech that knows how to fix them. do not ask me to do it.

as above. fuel cons will be in standard not metric. its the EXACT unit I have here in front of me so no go on the nav side of things. does half fix the radio issue.

with a LOT of fiddling. cut nothing.

it does run them. however I have fitted one of those and that is the least of your worries. it's not the most reliable and it is BIGGER than the hole.

show me the side of the unit w/o bracket. worst case copy the OE bracket in similar gauge steel.

I know where two wrecks are now - I'll have a look for you.

2nd poster has the right idea. sellys do a red can of contact adhesive for $30 or so that I use daily. does the job nicely. bunnings stock it.

x2

how about you hook the spare blk/red wire up to your blu or blu/wht wire - 32 & 34 have this 'reception booster' fitted as STANDARD!

do you know what system they run? the screen inthe 350z is slightly different to that in the v35 and m35. in these cars its a complete assembly that will come out in one piece. looking into the US domestic piece myself - have family there that can do the legwork for me. that will fix the menus but not the nav/tv side of things. T88, nah, its a JDM only- why spend the extra money on that when it was never to ship (officially) outside japan.

sounds like the guide plate has worn,broke and knocked the whole thing out of kilter. see brian he should be able to sort it out for you. common thing on the 6cd units.

actually: http://www.hifimax.net/hpc-100a.htm

car PC would be the real solution only thing being is the OE screen that will limit things.

parking sensors inthe front is easy. needs a switch to control them but thats it. to do them you need the car paint code and 3-4 hours of time. as for security - do you want the key only or key and remote? I'll make a few suggestions based on that.

prius is 240v from memory. still more than enough to make it move. did a bit more reading on the one above. 4 huge motors on it so it would certainly move. mind you it would not be at all cheap. the controllers for those things are $2.5k a pop.

yep alarm upgrades are the go on these. last 350z I did (similar architecture) they had put an alarm over the OE item- very messy and it didnt work quite right and it was VERY erratic. nigel, the OEM thing is a plug and go item anyway. fairly easy to ID and strip.

simply because they can- if you do it stay the hell away from me and my kid.keep in mind if you press the button and its in gear and it starts killing a 5 y/o then you will be in some serious strife or jail. your call.

if it has the ch2 out then a remote start module will run off that. as for doing it fromt hat unit - no.