SMOKEYV35

PRICE: 17,000 CONTACT: Via PM or O438 32O 369 LOCATION: Southbank, Melbourne VIC - 1999 Stagea Type S(Factory Manual, which has all the good bits of the RS260 only no gtr engine and brembos. Gets LSD, stronger drive shafts, and thicker swaybars over the auto versions) - 2nd OZ owner bought car 3 years ago at 58,000km currently has trouble free 114,000kms. - Car has dyno sheets for 200rwkw, and receipts for over 6k of new parts. 5k of receipts since i've owned it. Over 11k of receipts for mods!!! - Has not missed a beat, and paint is flawless, as is interior. I clean it twice a week and serviced with only the best fluids every 10,000kms. Also has a lot of hard to find factory options such as: - Full Dayz body kit - Dayz rear light caps - twin sunroofs (no leaks) - electronic tailgate closer - factory xenon headlights - rear cargo net and blind It had a major service at 89,000kms by Chasers the works e.g. Cambelt, Water pump, all fluids, plugs....just been freshly serviced at 110km with Motul, Trust filter and Rego till June 2011. SPECS: Brakes & Suspension R33 Gts-t Brake Conversion (Slotted Rotors and Rebuilt Calipers, Project Mu pads for front and rear) - recently adonised red - looks amazing. Greddy Coilovers (custom uprated Eibach springs in the rear to support heavier wagon rear) Greddy rear strut brace Carbon fiber look front brakes Whiteline bushes throughout, and Whiteline subframe kit legal ride height, professionally rolled rear gaurds = no scrubs. Wheels 9x9.5 BBS LM replicas. 6 weeks old. Red/Gold BBS Center caps BBS Sticker kit 15mm Neo Tech spacers on rear (can run without) Kumho KU19 235/35 - brand new, less than 1000km's old. cost was $2700 for this setup, with receipts. Engine Greddy Front Mount Greddy Blow Off Valve Greddy/Trust Airinx Filter Fujitsubo Front Pipe and Cat Back Nistune ECU (needs tune) Interior Greddy alloy shifter Gizzmo Electronic Boost Control Pivot Shift Lamp Pivot Speed Meter Stewart Warner 15psi Boost Gauge Red LED's in all dash lights White LED panels in roof lights Kenwood CD Player Viper Remote Start Alarm with Pager Cosmetic German DRL lights in front bar (SMD technology, super bright) sprayed cooler black, black mesh in front bar De-badged rear - perfect job M35 Stagea rear wiper N/A front grill (have standard RS4S grill in storage) Car is flawless and owes me over 22k with receipts to show. I'm a perfectionist by nature, and I look after this car better than I look after myself! Whatever it needs it gets. Anyone with a budget that allows will be very impressed by this car in person - there are lots of cheaper versions in the market that are fresh of the boat - but this car has over 11k in quality brand name mods, has 6 years of Australian service history at top workshops (Holford's and Chasers). You won't find a better example. If you're interested in having a look i'm located in southbank, melbourne – but I’m a busy person, so no timewasters or jet pilots. Contact vic PM or O438 32O 369 More Pics Here Walk around Video http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b25/matVL30/Nissan%20Stagea%20RS4S/?action=view&current=MVI_2816.mp4

You need higher impedence..... Not independence. And if u make looms all day for a living....And you NEED a new loom...... Am I missing something here? Beyond that, 1300 a week is 70k a year...id consider that a decent income! I'm sure you will sort it out. Just do a detox month, no booze, you will save that easy..... If u drink like a real man, that is.......haha

The m35 turbo/penis size comparisons continue........j/k hehe

Nice.

Yeh second that. U will not get anything out of just jap on email. I got one back a month later, and the email said to call them! Haha

currently steam cleaning the stag as per the might mods youtube vid. i thought my car was ultra clean, until i started this process - 12 years of dirt buildup in the carpets and upholstery - phwoar! good feeling to know it's clean as the day it rolled out of the factory. next step is the engine bay. not looking forward to it.

dont know what i'm looking at here? weeping rear rocker cover?? v-common..... try screw it down tighter for a quick fix - otherwise it's a pretty simple job to remove and replace.

haha so what about when VCT kicks in? will that mean my lights go off!? think i might just route it through the fire wall. not keen on tapping anything that might have a varying voltage etc - these lights are exp - don't want them ruined by my laziness.

That's what I've been finding! Frustrating. Might have to wire in to the cabin then...... Grr. May as well plan ahead and run cables for amp and fuel pump relay.

I can find ignition in the cabin easily, but I'm trying to avoid having to run more wiring in there for that. There has to be a way to pick up 12v ignition in the engine bay....... I mean, the engine doesn't run without it?!

just getting round to this. got the fuse box up. found a 12v feed when ign on, but i can't make out which wires go to which fuses. anyone got a wiring diagram for this section of the car?

polished my headlights again. second time in 6 months because i'm a fussy prick..... this time i used the turtle wax headlight restoration kit - kit is nicely put together, but the results aren't great. think the difference between the heaviest sanding pad and the next one was too great as i did one light 3 times over from heavy to lightest compound, and the scratches are still there. last time i used glassylite kit and it came out perfect. glassylite > turtle wax now i'm going to purchase a 3M professional kit with drill attachments so that i can get the heavy scratches out from the turtle wax kit grrr.....

gauges look great. well done for DIY factor. how come your boost gauge is showing a reading though? i assume you're at idle given i can see the reflection of you holding your camera with two hands!

There is not one in the dump. Only the one you can see.

C34. Only one cat between front pipe and rear section of the exhaust.

There should only be one cat.......?

if you're keeping the stock turbo - the injectors, fuel pump, Z32 etc are not needed. Stock turbo will run 12psi safely, or 14psi for an unknown amount of time before throwing a wheel. 12psi will get you around 200-210rwkw - if you want any higher than that then you need to upgrade the turbo (hi-flow, GT30, TR43) at which point (but not before) all those other bits will become useful. if i were you i'd take care of your plugs, coils (if needed), get a high quality oil in, do your exhaust properly, FMIC, get a nistune ecu in, an EBC and the 12V+ mod to your stock fuel pump and get it tuned by a pro - that will net you 200rkw. if you want any more power than that, its new turbo time - and then you can throw on all thoese other bits you have. you're wasting your time and a tune putting them in before you have a turbo that can supply enough air to take advantage. EDIT: for your FMIC, check out just jap and their cooling pro turn flow kits. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19944&cat=&page=1

What's your power goal? I'm guessing you will be doing exhaust, fmic, turbo, ecu? Can see ur other mods but you appear to have missed a step!

not quite true. my car dyno'd at 210rwkw with the front shaft dropped on a 2WD dyno. on an AWD dyno it dyno'd at 178awkw - same car - same mods - same boost. different dyno, yes, but i doubt it would account for a diffence of some 30+kw. lots of mechanical loss of power in the drivetrain. does that mean the car would go harder in 2WD mode? i have no idea.....but the dyno doesnt lie...much. heheh. (out of interest, that was done on an eManage Ultimate. i now have a Nistune that i'll be throwing in and getting retuned. Mod's won't have changed at all, so it will be verrrrry interesting to see what figures they can pull out of the Nistune vs the Emanage)

mmm so shiny! love the DIY aspect. handshake for you. whens the next vic cruise? i need an excuse to get on with my power mods! :-P

i run my tyres at 40psi. as has been said, helps them not camber wear so bad. also helps protect the rims when running low profile.

there is a white Autech Axis for sale in the classifieds section. i would trade mine for that straight erp.....it's a lovely looking piece of gear, and fully loaded for 18k. can't go wrong. prices on 35's have taken a big hit since i was looking 6 months ago. where as they used to be in the 20's, now they are regularly in the mid teens. if i was buying now i'd go straight for a 35 purely for the newer car factor and the extra creature comforts. if you like working on your cars, adding off the shelf parts, and tinkering around a bit though, C34 is where you need to be..... much more user friendly and wallet friendly.

pretty sure it has to be above 200cpi to pass EPA. won't get hot enough otherwise, and the infra red thermometer won't detect a significant enough temp difference. that being said, i'm so tempted to grab a decat pipe........ i've got a 3" catco, inspected it recently and it seemed fine - but hate knowing there is kw's getting eaten up in there.......that being said, it would not compare to how stupid i would feel if i got done by the cops/EPA for running an illegal cat setup - the fine alone would put me in debt for months.

I'll be watching this with interest!

I was worried about the seal and talked to him on the phone about it. Reckons he can get it off and on ok...... But if it doesn't seal or looks rubbish I have a lifetime warranty on the install so I'm sure he will be happy to fix it.