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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Need to get rid of the shit box R33 first, missus won't be too impressed if I bring home another car lol
  2. This is why a M2, M3, M4, M5 or even M240, M340 makes sense. Works, fast, reliable (compared to our modded Nissans), won't get defected, great economy, comfy.
  3. Yeah normally I would, however these injectors probably has seen less than 5000km of use - lesson learnt nevertheless. Other than that, DBW works, closed loop idle worked well with a can of start ya bastard sprayed into the throttle 😂
  4. You won't have an issue, as serviced injectors generally would have some lubricant applied. And once everything is installed and then primed you theoretically should have a closed loop system.
  5. @Duncan I think having the cold side out of the car and sitting on a bench may have contributed to this. @BK I "could" take them to an injector place however burning time (and money) leaving the car in the shop, so easier to get a new set. Will try clean/service the old set, then sell them to recoup costs. And yes they're the 1480/1550/1650 (at 4bar) as everyone calls them.
  6. @PLYNX asif you would have bought a BMW Remember how I said nothing goes to plan with the R33? so spent a few hours at Birrong trying to start the stupid car, we got it going with start ya bastard. Car had injector pulse, spark, registered RPM, you name it! Everything was working as one would assume. Both scratching our heads, then he got one of the workers to pull them all out and put then in an injector bath. Surprise surprise, every single one seized. Amazing right? These are about 2 years old, have had like no more than 5000km on them and yep.. dead! Anyhow, more money to burn - picking up a brand new set of 6 tomorrow.
  7. I wish the opposite for mine, for me it's been a bad project and there's always something that is broken LOL I dream of a car that can be used, doesn't break with nothing to do!
  8. (this is my opinion, please feel free to ignore) whatever you do, don't put Redline Shockproof into the box. Great for old, worn and thrashed boxes - has no place in new tight boxes. Gee.. that sounded wrong.
  9. Tried to start the car, starter motor died LOL... Starter was moving super slow, we tried adding a jumper pack, starter motor got ripping hot and then it stopped moving completely and just clicked only lol. Waiting for a reconditioned one now
  10. The final piece before 1st start 😎 ATI don't have an off the shelf RB25DET balancer, so HiOctane made a pulley to fit. Might even start the car today 🚤 (Yes radiator isolating rubbers will be installed lol)
  11. Interesting however those switches need an Ethernet run to them. https://www.lifx.com.au/products/smart-switch-4-gang The above runs off WiFi and conveniently I already have A/N/E where the switches are LOL.
  12. Since you're changing the slave and rebleeding the entire system - might as well piss off that clutch loop line/damper.
  13. Yep pretty much this! Oh wells at least one thing sorted and I also installed the Google Nest smoke & CO alarm too! Might get another one for upstairs. After that, will think about some home automation - do have a few of the Arlec Grid connect bulbs I use in the staircase & garage lights but might go with all the lights in the house at some stage too.
  14. you should be able to, remove the slave, remove the rubber and you should be able to stuff those small cameras in there to have a look.
  15. I think you may have massive air pockets in the damper (the loop next to the chassis rail). Do you have a hand vacuum pump? that might help get fluid down. Or like the others mentioned, snapped pivot or snapped fork (can happen with super strong pressure plates).
  16. Delete the damper line/loop, run a braided line from master to slave.
  17. You'll be cycling gears like a mad man, like a truck. For a 400kW setup (as you've indicated) I would say a 4.3 with a CD009 is a terrible idea.
  18. CD009 with a 4.3 diff is just silly, even with a 4.11 diff it's just silly. I would be finding a S15 diff at 3.69 for the CD009 OR a S15 Auto diff at 3.9
  19. If didn't care about being compliant, etc. I would have crimp and dual wall heatshrunk the lot lol... but need to stick to standards to avoid issues in future.
  20. Generally you use twin core from the light source down to the switch to break the circuit, all other places we've been at have been like this. This is the first time I've seen A/N/E at the light switch. Disclaimer: I'm not a sparky by trade but I've done electrical engineer courses during my IT course at uni for fun. Also I probably do neater and more reliable wiring than most sparkies, alarm installers and trailer experts lol. I've got the entire OC document deck when I bought the house, the sparky signed off his on work (self certified) and a private certified signed off on the lot for the OC. I am tempted to take further action - however what will that result in? just more headaches, heaps of random people going in/out of my house disturbing my wife and kid. So, weighed out that cluster f**k and replaced all the shitty solder/tape jobs with screw down connectors and trimmed wires to length then called it a day.
  21. It's at every single light switch too! Trust me, I wasn't very happy seeing the level of horseshit wiring, but this is what you get buying a brand new house off a property developer. Saving $0.13 per screw connector is top priority for some it seems.
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